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The only thing holding that flange onto your rear axle is rust. block wheels, put trans in neutral. This will relieve the drivetrain tension. next pound the flange with a bfh, mini sledge or bigger. Claw hammer wont work. It will pop off, it may just take some elbow grease.
Valid point. Still hit where i am pointing w a hammer and the shaft will fall off. Good luck w changing the joints if you are haveing this much trouble getting the shaft out
I was thinking the same thing. If he can't get the shaft out of the truck (and is dumb enough not to block the wheels before doing so) then how is he going to get the u-joints out?
It doesn't look like I'm going to be able to remove the shaft. The two bolts holding the center piece are frozen and now nearly rounded. I tried putting the torch to the one farthest from the gas tank with no success. The shaft will not come off without getting that center piece out.
Hitting it with a hammer will break the rust free. You still have to pry the shaft towards the front of the truck. There is a small (1/8") lip it has to come free of. Just did mine this morning.
Rolling down Rt 9 into Harper's Ferry, W. Va, a bad vibration in the rear makes me stop at the gas station at the bottom of the hill. My brother thinks we are doomed. I reach up on the dash, pull a used u-joint and tell him, 'nah, just a rest break.'
I pull the shot u-joint out, put the used one in and we are on our way east within a 1/2 hour. True story.
ive done the u joints on a chevy before but this ford i have now seems to have a retainig nut in the center of the plate where the driveshaft bolts up to the rear dif reading this thread that said to just hit it with a hammer ill try that first but the retaining nut if that is what it actually is seems to be an allen key and id have to customize one to get it to fit betwean the plate and the u joint so would any one know what size it is so i dont have to cut 2 or three different sizes to figure it out??????
ive done the u joints on a chevy before but this ford i have now seems to have a retainig nut in the center of the plate where the driveshaft bolts up to the rear dif reading this thread that said to just hit it with a hammer ill try that first but the retaining nut if that is what it actually is seems to be an allen key and id have to customize one to get it to fit betwean the plate and the u joint so would any one know what size it is so i dont have to cut 2 or three different sizes to figure it out??????
welcome to FTE.
the proper forum for your truck would be here: 1997 - 2003 F150 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
97to 03 f150, and F250 LD forum.
someone there should be able to help you get back on the road.
i think it behooves us to remember that we are not all at the same level of expertise, mechanically speaking. i give full marks to the OP for seeking help, rather than try to use brute force on something that might not like having brute force applied to it ... of course, this this case, brute force, judiciously applied, was just what the doctor ordered.
not sure why you are sending it to the junkyard ... a shop can take care of those rounded bolts and install a u-joint at a pretty reasonable price as the parts are not expensive and there is not much labour required.
Umm. If the bolts won't come out cherry. ( torch applied) then you do not have correct tools for removal. If bolts are rounded you need a smaller 12 point socket sae or met. Usually metric. And punch socket to bolt head. Heat flange. ( not bolt ) to cherry put good break over or long ratchet and hold straight lefty loosely. That's most trouble I've had on driveline
Sorry didn't read first post. All bolts removed. No carrier bearing( usually loosend or dropped ). Jack up rear end 5. 6 in. Pry bar or hammer should do it
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