Ok I got it to start and it would run good then rough and puky and back to smooth again then it died again I am going to run codes again after I clear the first set to see what it says I'LL let you know hear in a few less than an hour again mark thank you for the help I acan't say it enough

 

Well I don't know if FICM is bad or not changed egr changed fuel filters did not realize the dificulty here lol added boost to fuel and started it up ran rough then smooth then rough back and forth till it crapped out checked codes got a new one then cleared them and let it sit about five started it up and took it for a drive was real pukey for the first mile or two then it perked right up. did not change oil till after did not know if i would have to pull intake did not want the extra cost of another oil change. well she ran like a raped ape for the rest of the run got it home shut it down let it sit for a few and turned right back over with no check engine light hope its fix'd going to change oil after it cools down. and run it again. I did not know an egr could cause so many problems exspecialy not wanting to start is this common? I will start a new post tomorrow after looking at some mods for this 6.0 want to know what is best and what not to do on this to help it longgevity. In want to drive this till I'M in the ground not the other way around.

 

The 6.0L engine is very senstitive to fuel quality, fuel pressure, oil quality, oil level, oil pressure, EGR performance (until you delete it), system voltages, and to a large number of sensors and processors functioning properly. None of them can be ignored and still expect your engine to run smoothly.

Just be aware, you may still have FICM or injector issues, time will tell. Anyway, it is good to hear it is running better. Keep up w/ the routine maintenance it is a necessity!

 

Mark again I thank you I will be starting a new thread tomorrow I have a kot to learn and serious work ahead of me but in the end I know with these trucks they are worth it I've driven an 03 F-250 and a 04 duramax for work and hands down even with the issues the 6.0 has IT IS FAR FAR BETTER but this is only one mans experience

 

O sh-t back to square one wont start again this morning kicks just a little and i do mean a little then just turns how do I check the FICM egfr clean as a whistle so nthe new one is fine what nexxxt?

 

This link is from the 6.0 tech folder sticky at the top of this forum - it contains diagnostic procedures for the FICM

http://www.grufmanbil.se/mektips/6.0...tech_guide.pdf

 

i dont know how to check the ficm but from what ive read here they usually work or dont. your problem sounds electrical somewhere. like something's making contact then it dont. have you checked for wire chafing around the valve covers?.

 

will be my next step to check nfor chafing but tol around this beast it did not appear to look bad at all. But the mainquestion is it possible for the thing to be intermiten also weard hear did not want to start yesterday morning but came closer as the nday grew hoter then fired up has not done so yet today but gets closer as it gets warmer well started for about 15seconds no white smoke just a little black I'M puzzled

 

Soberdude,

You can keep messing with all you want but I am telling you from years of experience that you need a FICM, when they are starting to go out they cause all sort of weird problems because after all it is whats firing the injectors. A malfunctioning FICM is the only thing that will set injector circuit codes for all 8 injectors because there is no way all those wires are chafed or grounded. The only thing you can check is that the FICM relay is working correctly and that the three connectors to the FICM are seated properly and that you don't have any bent pins. Still, given everything else, I know its the FICM, the reason its better when its warm is because the injector spool valves stick worse when cold.

 

Here is a good video on the FICM:

<TABLE style="WIDTH: 327pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=436 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 327pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 15945" width=436><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 47.25pt" height=63><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 327pt; HEIGHT: 47.25pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=63 width=436>mms://multimedia.ford.com/seopts/Tech12_250k.wmv</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

Wiring Harness Chafing:
Some 03/04 trucks with the 6.0 may exhibit a crank/no start, rough running, misfire, buck/jerk or lack of power. This may be due to the FICM harness chafing on a valve cover stud near the FICM. Other potential locations for chafing are where the harness routes past the EBP sensor, the belt idler on the driver side of the engine, the glow plug control module bracket on the passenger side of the engine, and the accelerator pedal sensor wires at the steering column (adjustable pedals only). Reroute and repair the harness as necessary. Broadcast Message 0918/1374, SSM #17522

 

Also:

<TABLE style="WIDTH: 568pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=757 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 568pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 27684" width=757><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 568pt; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl25 height=17 width=757>Wire Chaffing Locations</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 568pt; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17 width=757>http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=17301&d=1208412696</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 568pt; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17 width=757>http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles/article-05-11.php</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 568pt; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17 width=757>http://fordpowerstrokeforums.com/downloads/Wire%20Chafing%20Locations.pdf</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

 

well I guess its time to find a FICM and if thats not it I'LL have one for a back up thats they way to look at that. anyone hear know where to get one cheaper than the dealer you know like there supply house or any place else?
Jboczar and mark thanks again you guys are very helpful Hope one day I can return the gesture

 

Replacement FICMs do not contain software. When you get one it will have it programmed for your truck.

 

well I pulled the codes again and now no injector codes only crank shaft position sensor and cam shaft position sensor circut open codes would this be caused because of bad ficm? or should i replace them to eliminate that issue and go from there?