won't run codesin thread HELP!!!!!!!!
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Hell with a zip code PHX
won't run codesin thread HELP!!!!!!!!
CodesPO261,PO264,PO267,PO270,PO273,PO276,PO279,PO2 82, PO405,and PO403 I know I have problems but is there anything I can do besides Takeing it to the Dealer?
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Lakewood, Ca.
Maybe John can put the three threads you have going on this subject together.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...er-stroke.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ode-means.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...er-stroke.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ode-means.html
Senior User
Joined: May 2009
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From: Clearwater
Sober dude,
Those are all injector circuit codes, either the FICM relay has gone bad and you don't have power to the FICM or more likely you FICM has failed, Fuel Injector Control Module is located on the left valve cover. I hope you still have a warranty or you are looking at over $700 and thats just for the module. The p0403 and p0405 are circuit codes for the egr valve, either it is unplugged or has been unplugged sometime in the past with the key on. Installing a new FICM and programming should start your truck right up, there is a tsb related to this concern but it almost always ends with replacing the FICM. Hope this helps.
Those are all injector circuit codes, either the FICM relay has gone bad and you don't have power to the FICM or more likely you FICM has failed, Fuel Injector Control Module is located on the left valve cover. I hope you still have a warranty or you are looking at over $700 and thats just for the module. The p0403 and p0405 are circuit codes for the egr valve, either it is unplugged or has been unplugged sometime in the past with the key on. Installing a new FICM and programming should start your truck right up, there is a tsb related to this concern but it almost always ends with replacing the FICM. Hope this helps.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Hell with a zip code PHX
no warranty and went to the dealer today and they said there was a tsb on the egr with these codes and it would make the rest run like sh--- and trip the other codes the $700.00 would be welcom compared to the work i'm about to do so I dont pay the dealer $2,200 to replace a cooler that i can do for less than $500.00 and a few busted knuckles and a lot of ice tea lol. I pulled the egr today and it was full of sout and it was a little bit sticky and i was told that was a sighn of the cooler going really dont want to put the new one in and have it go bad in a week they did tell me to start using a cetane boost in my gas and that it would help Hell I'm New at this but love the power of my stroker here because i trust most of you more than a dealer!!!
Last edited by soberdude94; Jun 10, 2009 at 11:26 PM. Reason: spelling
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Fleet Owner
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Sticky soot on the EGR valve is not necessraily a sign of a bad EGR cooler. I had the sticky soot material at 30k. I did not have the sticky soot when I pulled the valve at apprx. 45k. The only difference bewteen 30k and 45k was I idled less after 30k and I re-routed the ccv to a frame rail filter.
If you park on an incline (downhill) and pull the EGR valve and see or smell coolant in the intake (uneer the EGR valve) - than this is an indication of a bad EGR cooler. So is a lot of white smoke from the exhaust - along with losing level in the coolant reservoir.
Why no warranty? How many miles do you have on it. When did you buy the truck?
If you park on an incline (downhill) and pull the EGR valve and see or smell coolant in the intake (uneer the EGR valve) - than this is an indication of a bad EGR cooler. So is a lot of white smoke from the exhaust - along with losing level in the coolant reservoir.
Why no warranty? How many miles do you have on it. When did you buy the truck?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Hell with a zip code PHX
no warranty because this was a theft recovery that insurance paid off so they salvaged the tittle had compleete esp check done by servicing dealer before i bought it everything checked out real good. I could not get it to start today when i finally got it to start it was very late could not see the smoke to well but it could be ficm. How could I check this before I buy A new one? it has 47k on it now bought it for my birthday 3-17-09 paid only 14k F-250 Lariat crew cab 4X4 Leveling kit air bags and clean 17in weld rims with Nito Grapler AT's Beautiful Truck. have 93 Bronco 03 Expedition and now my toy. I knew before I bought it there were issues with this engine but I love Bleed Ford what can I say.I picked up a new egr this after noon should I put this one in and move the truck to check out under the egr on a decline? I do have an extra gasket for the egr. My thought with the truck when I bought it was I would still be money ahead even if the engine went on me life is full of chances you have to take some once in awhile. so did. But back to the ficm can I chek it out or is that a crap shoot too?
Fleet Owner
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1 - post the VIN number in the Superduty section and get an OASIS report
2 - Change the oil (use a 5W40 CJ4 oil like Rotella T) and filter
3 - Change the fuel filters (use motorcraft filters on fuel and oil)
4 - I would also change the air filter
5 - make sure the batteries are in good shape (load test)
6 - have the alternator tested
7 - ensure fuel quality is good and add a cetane booster
9 - pull the FICM harness and inspect it and the pins
10 - If you can get it running, drive it and look for smoke
11 - look for loss of coolant or dried coolant spots around the coolant reservoir
12 - If you didn't already, clean that EGR valve. If it were me, I would just replace it.
13 - while you have the EGR valve out - check for coolant on a decline AND clean out your intake as best as possible
Report back after all these are done. It is probably still something like the FICM (or something electrical like wire chaffing), but rule out the basics first. I can not emphasize enough how important a good electrical system is (batteries, alternator, etc)!
2 - Change the oil (use a 5W40 CJ4 oil like Rotella T) and filter
3 - Change the fuel filters (use motorcraft filters on fuel and oil)
4 - I would also change the air filter
5 - make sure the batteries are in good shape (load test)
6 - have the alternator tested
7 - ensure fuel quality is good and add a cetane booster
9 - pull the FICM harness and inspect it and the pins
10 - If you can get it running, drive it and look for smoke
11 - look for loss of coolant or dried coolant spots around the coolant reservoir
12 - If you didn't already, clean that EGR valve. If it were me, I would just replace it.
13 - while you have the EGR valve out - check for coolant on a decline AND clean out your intake as best as possible
Report back after all these are done. It is probably still something like the FICM (or something electrical like wire chaffing), but rule out the basics first. I can not emphasize enough how important a good electrical system is (batteries, alternator, etc)!
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Hell with a zip code PHX
already pulled an oasis nothing more than what i got from carfax came back it truly is in good condition till now and I did some heaving pulling this weekend maybe i did something wrong
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Hell with a zip code PHX
Mark thanks for everything I foregot to mention carfax showed egr replaced once and an injector around 20k but most important is why would the ficm not throw a code if it was bad or why would i not detect one? ran fine the night before went out to start in the morning and it would not start. and last but very important how would you suggest I clean the Intake I really don't want to take it off lot of work but I do need to get it right have a HUGE road trip coming up in two weeks KS.WI.OH.NC back 2 OH and then back home to AZ