Hey guys. I live in TX and I just had a baby boy and it's way too hot to be hauling him around with no a/c. I bought a "retrofit" conversion kit from walmart and I'm not sure what to do next. I have a older honda that I have recharged before so I know what the ports are supposed to look like. However I am completely lost looking at my ford. The one I believe to be the low port is in the first picture. The one I believe is the high is in the second picture and looks like its in the wrong place seeing as how its on the drivers side and the low is on the passenger side. Are these the correct ports? If not, where are they?

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you are correct... the low side port is on the accumulator on the passenger side, and the high side is on the driver's side...between the coolant/windshield washer fluid reservoir and the radiator..

 

Ok I did everything but the compressor isn't kicking on. I read elsewhere that you can use a paper clip to jump the A/C clutch switch. I tried that by sticking each end of the paper clip into the switch (wire side) and the only thing that happened was my engine idle went up a little. I never heard the compressor kick on. Maybe a bad switch? I also read somewhere that the easiest way to bypass the clutch switch is to jump the a/c relay. Where is this located?

 

Since the idle went up, the clutch circuit should be ok.
Jumper the cycling switch connector and then tap the face of the clutch with a screwdriver handle. If it engages, you'll need to adjust the clutch gap.

 

Ok that worked but as soon as I plug the switch back in, it cuts off. Also, once engaged with the screwdriver trick, shouldn't cold air start to come out of the vents at some point? The low side measures way in the yellow so I know there is coolant in it.

 

Almost forgot, thanks!

 

There's probably very little refrigerant in it AND the clutch gap is too wide. Check the gauge with the AC running, it will likely be way low. BTW, don't put much stock in that cheapie gauge, they're garbage. There is a chance the switch is bad, but you need to know the actual static pressure of the system to tell. If the static pressure is below ~45psi, the switch will open and keep the compressor from engaging.
Your system has the original R12 fittings on it, so it hasn't been converted to R134a.

To adjust the clutch gap:
-Remove the center bolt in the AC clutch.
-Slip the clutch plate off. It may need a tweak with a screwdriver to get it moving. Hold your hand under it while removing the plate in case any shims fall out.
-Look in the hole in the clutch plate that indexes onto the compressor shaft. There will be one or more shim washers in there.
-Remove a shim, or THE shim as the case may be.
-Reinstall the clutch plate.
- The clutch should spin freely and not rub the pulley.
-If this takes more than 5 minutes, you took a beer break in the middle.

Even with the "conversion kit", you will need a proper set of gauges and a vacuum pump to evacuate the system and properly charge it. Check with your local "chain" parts store and see if you can rent them. DO NOT add the oil or refrigerant to the system without first removing the existing refrigerant and pulling a hard vacuum, it won't work well if you don't.xc
If the refrigerant is low currently, it would be cheap insurance to get a ~$10 seal kit and reseal all of the line fittings. The old refrigerant went somewhere and leaks always get bigger, not smaller.