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1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis Econolines. E150, E250, E350, E450 and E550

Steering Gear adjustments

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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 09:42 AM
  #1  
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jcbx
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Steering Gear adjustments

Hi





I think that my Steering Gear needs to be adjustet





it has quite a bit of slack when I turn my steering wheel left and right without the engine running





seems like 2-3" of slack





is that normal (110.000miles) or can I adjust me out of this slack ??





Sincerly


JCBX
 
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 06:40 PM
  #2  
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Mush
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From: valencia pa.
What vehicle?
 
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Old Jun 5, 2009 | 12:38 AM
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jcbx
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sorry .......

its a E-150 from 1992

is it possible to remowe the lack (slack) I must turn my steeringwheel 2-3" before it react , and it all appears to be in the steering gear

is this the setup to do it ????




Adjustment In-Vehicle

Adjust total on center load to eliminate excessive lash between the sector and rack teeth as follows. See meshload specifications below for checking and setting values. This is the only adjustment required.

1. Disconnect the pitman arm from the sector shaft using Tool T64P-3590-F, Pitman Arm Puller.

2. Disconnect the fluid return line at the reservoir and cap the reservoir return line pipe.

3. Place the end of the return line in a clean container and turn the steering wheel from stop-to-stop several times to discharge the fluid from the gear. Discard the fluid.

4. Turn the steering wheel to 45 degrees from the right stop.

5. Attach an inch-pound torque wrench to the steering wheel nut and determine the torque required to rotate the shaft slowly approximately one-eighth turn toward center from the 45 degree position.

6. Turn the steering gear back to center and determine the torque required to rotate the shaft back and forth across the center position (± 90°). Refer to the following chart for checking and resetting specifications. If reset is required, loosen the adjuster locknut and turn the sector shaft adjuster screw until the reading is the specified value greater than the torque at 45 degrees from the stop. Hold the sector shaft screw in place, and tighten the locknut.



7. Re-check torque readings and replace the pitman arm and steering wheel hub cover.

8. Connect the fluid return line to the reservoir and fill the reservoir to specification («Section 11-00», Steering, General). Adjust belt tension, if necessary.

Do not pry against the reservoir to obtain proper belt load. Pressure will deform the reservoir and cause it to leak.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2009 | 10:11 AM
  #4  
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That lengthy authorized procedure doesn't really take high mileage wear into account. Normal 100+K wear almost always results in "slack" concentrated near center, where so much of the day to day steering action takes place. Its "normal" for substantially less wear to take place well off center. The complex factory procedure assumes even proximity throughout the entire range, making it more useful for setting up a new steering box.

Therein lies the rub. If you adjust to spec for near center on a high mileage steering box you may quite likely overtighten the steering gear when off center. This is very dangerous, defeating the self centering geometry.

However some of the "slack" from high mileage can be adjusted out. First have helper tweak steering wheel left to right, in the "slack" while you inspect the Pitman arm. Note if the arm moves up & down before moving L & R. That's a sign the steering box is worn. If not, the slack may be elsewhere. If Pitman arm moves up & down, jack up front, note position of adjusting screw & try small incremental adjustments to the steering box, no more than half a turn. With each adjustment turn the steering wheel lock to lock, engine off, feeling for any tightening away from center. Then return to center & take up another half turn. When you feel any tightening back off 1/4 turn, carefully lock the adjusting nut w/o upsetting the screw position. Recheck for tightness, loosen more as neccessary. When satisfied take a cautious test drive. At walking speed, in open parking lot, make sharp turn & let go of steering wheel to see if its able to self center. That is the wheel should try to center itself.

These units also like fresh fluid. They tend to be ignored. Most run until they stop on the original fluid. You can remove the output line & let it pump itself dry. Pumps are a bit of a PITA to replace since the pulley requires a special puller & is mounted after the pump goes thru the bracket.
 
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