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I would hope you plan on doing some investigating before just swapping the distributer and trying it!
Like looking at the pump drive shaft, pumping it up manually, seeing if you have flow/pressure to the filter and back to the motor... That sort of thing!
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
I already tried that, manually priming the motor I see oil moving through the pressure line and oil is going to the filter.
I didn't install the cam bearings, I bought the motor already rebuilt with a little bit of run time on it. I was told it had 5-6k miles. I just put in a different camshaft and some adjustable timing gears.
Check the oil pressure bypass, that might be stuck open. Had one stuck open once and had no pressure hardly at all. I know its a bummer having to drop the pan again....
On a lighter note, had pressure bypass stuck shut once on a Mercruser engine, was wondering why the oil pressure guage spun around twice, then BANG went the oil filter, what a mess.....
when you installed the cam, did you have the oil pan off too, or did you just remove the timing cover? mabe a rag or paper towel fell down in there, and now has the pick up screen covered. I've done that one too
when you installed the cam, did you have the oil pan off too, or did you just remove the timing cover? mabe a rag or paper towel fell down in there, and now has the pick up screen covered. I've done that one too
Since you found that you had no oil pressure, You have removed the filter return line, Turned the pump with a drill and verified the volume and pressure?
My point is to verify volume and pressure at each section of the oil path.
Just seeing oil in the filter and oil moving in the gauge line really doesn't mean much, it only takes a tiny bit of pressure and flow to do that.
The reason I am trying to get you to do this is because it will tell you if the problem is the lower half (ie: pickup/pump/filter), Or if it's in the upper half. (ie: crank/cam/upper valve train.)
Since you found that you had no oil pressure, You have removed the filter return line, Turned the pump with a drill and verified the volume and pressure?
My point is to verify volume and pressure at each section of the oil path.
Just seeing oil in the filter and oil moving in the gauge line really doesn't mean much, it only takes a tiny bit of pressure and flow to do that.
The reason I am trying to get you to do this is because it will tell you if the problem is the lower half (ie: pickup/pump/filter), Or if it's in the upper half. (ie: crank/cam/upper valve train.)
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
Ok, I got you. I'll pull an oil line and run the pump and see how much comes out. Should I crank the motor(not letting it fire obviously) or run the pump with a drill? What kind of quantity/flow am I looking for?
No rags or anything in the oil pan. I left the pan on for the cam swap, but dropped the pan before I flipped the motor to do the rear main and pan gasket. I installed the oil pan an hour or 2 before I dropped the motor back in.
Do not turn that motor over (except by hand) until you get good oil all the way to the top!
Then pump it up, Drop the Dist. in and Fire it up...
You need to get that cam saturated in oil so you don't wipe it out. The rest will survive ok.
Pump it up with a drill...
I'm sure there is a flow and pressure spec (at specific RPM) for that pump, what it is I have no clue.
You can bet it'll fill a beer can pretty quick...
Of course drill speed has a lot to do with it.
I'm guessing the lines are AN8 or 10, it should easily flow a solid stream, probably not shoot it out, but flow a solid stream, Put your finger over it while pumping and you should not be able to stop the flow and it should squirt oil everywhere...
(Well maybe if your fingers are pretty strong)
My current race motor will shoot out from the AN10 hose, It has a HPHV pump, And don't even think about trying to hold your finger over the end, It will spray a mess everywhere!
You can generally turn the dizzy shaft about as fast as the motor does.
So if you are making around 30-60 psi at idle, you can also get that much by turning the drill.
I personally would pull a valve cover off and watch the oil shoot from the push rods. That is really the only way to ensure your top end is getting enough oil.
still pondering your delima, did you check that the pipe plugs [guess that's what they are called] under the flywheel on the back of the block are there or tight, oil will never make it to the top if not. tell tale sign, would be bell houseing full of oil, also, you diddn't knock the freeze plug out of the back of the cam? it would do same thing
All the plugs and such that were on the motor when I got it were still there when I installed it. This cam plug you speak of, is it internal or on the back of the block as well.
There is a chance that you put the cam bearings in wrong and the holes are not lined up.
I hate to say it, but there is only one way to find out......
Originally Posted by uncle.stosh
I've seen it happen. More than once......
Your top end will get no oil.
This is simply false information. Cam bearings on a 460 are a 'dead end' for oil, nothing else is fed off of them, except for the front cam bearing which feeds oil to the distributor shaft/gear. Even if you installed all the cam bearings with oil holes not lined up you would still have oil pressure at both front and rear oil ports as well as oil to the lifters and rockers.
So not sure how you observed cam bearings incorrectly installed starve the top end of oil. Perhaps you can explain?
Im not sure about the big block but I know for a fact in a small block if the hole is not lined up you will read oil pressure on the guage but not actually hace it cerculating to the top end.
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