wondering if anyone who has done this body-mount replacement wound up measuring the sleeves and hardware sizes that were used - either re-used OEM stuff, stuff from a new kit, or cobbled together DIY stuff.

i'll be doing a tranny swap soon and i'm trying to get all my ducks in a row for a couple of other projects i want to get done at the same time. i bought the energy suspension body mount kit for my 96 F250 extended cab a while back from LMC, but haven't put it in yet. my plan is to put ~1 - 1.5" lift blocks on top of my new body mounts so that i can go up to 35" tires from my current 33's, so i was looking for some information on what size bolts i'd need to do this, when i found this post and realized that my kit did not come with any hardware (bolts, washers or sleeves). i guess i'm expected to re-use the old stuff, but considering how rusted in place my suspension bushings were, i gauruntee these won't come out easy - the methods in this post should help, though.

anyway, i'm hoping to at least get my new longer bolts lined up ahead of time, and maybe even some replacement sleeves - by just cutting some steel tube to the correct length. (the washers, i can figure out by the size of the bushings i have). poking around a little more on the Bronco Graveyard link above, i found this kit, which seems to include everything needed so that you can cut all the old stuff apart on the way out: Body Mount Bushings, Extended Cab.

if someone could help me out with the OD on those sleeves, i'd appreciated it. i guess i could just measure the ID on the bushings i have, but i want to make sure i don't make it too big and wind up not being able to get it through the frame perch.

the bolt size and length would be nice too, but i'm figuring i can probably get a measurement on them with the old ones still installed.

thanks!

 

Hey, brad...just wanted to say thanks for the lifesaving info....I ended up using a tool exactly as you said. I was surprised how much torque was required to free the rear passenger cab mount on my 95' F250. The tool was sucking the cab lower and lower and the nut was getting harder and harder to turn to the point of almost galling. So I put a jack under the body and lifted the body about two inches, then continued turning the nut...until...BANG! It came apart. Great idea!

 

no problem. It is amazing what you learn 20 years later doing the same job

 

The middle and back Cab mounts that are OEM can be pulled apart using a floor jack and three foot or longer chain if accessible from the bottom. Remove the cab mount bolt and reinstall from the bottom through an appropriate size chain link. Put a lot of penetrating lube into the bushing from the top overflow it into the bushing sleeves. Loop the chain you just attached underneath a floor jack so chain is vertical with the body mount when the jack contacts truck frame. Hook chain together tightly so it will pull evenly. Make sure body mount bolt is completely through the bottom mount nut so threads won’t strip.
When you jack up the truck, the weight of the truck will push down on the jack and chain looped underneath. The chain will pull down on the bolt and be an effective puller and separate the upper and lower cab body mount so it can be removed. For safety—- Leave the wheels on the truck, reposition jack and chain as needed for even pulling and stand clear if chain or link should pop. Beats the sawsall and the beat it out method. Just takes a few minutes. After removal If you grind the bulges on the inner sleeves the OEM sleeves can be reused on the new bushings.
This procedure WILL NOT work for front mounts.

 

Just replaced 22 year old body mount bushings on my 99 f350 with a set from S&B. Not an easy job, but good weekend project. While I had the seat out, I removed the floor mat and laid down the Dynamat/Dynapad insulation and soundproofing material. These products are pricey, but the truck rides great; no more body roll and clunking sounds coming from the rear of the cab. I kept driving over the same bumpy roads where the truck would be clunking non-stop. Wow, what a difference. Can’t say enough about the overall quality and performance of the S&B body mounts. Definitely worth it.

 

Make a puller. Its so easy. Not as bad as this whole post makes it out to be. I did mine , by myself bad back and neck. Frustrating ? For me, yes. If I were healthy, it would have been a breeze.

 

I have a few clients that are surgeons. They tell me there job is simple too. I guess what is easy depends on your skill set and which school of hard knocks you went to.