When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
If you see coolent coming from below the fan pully and not on top, then I would think you will get practice changing the water pump.
Originally Posted by PaysonPSD
Sounds like the water pump to me. It's most likely leaking at the shaft. I would change the pump. Matter of fact I did change my pump because of the same leak.
By the time you get the fan and shroud off to see where the leak is you have got the worst part of changing the pump already done.
Listen to these guys. The know what that are talking about.
Thanks all. I rented the fan clutch set from Autozone today. Now, I just need to find a re-built water pump. It's going to be hard on Memorial Day weekend, so it might have to wait till next week.
Thanks for all the help.
I bought mine from northernautoparts.com. They sell the factory airtex and i got it delivered to the house for under $100. u cant go wrong. not a problem with it, been on the truck for almost 3 years now
Alright, so I bought a new Duralast water pump from Autozone. On the instructions inside, it reccommends replacement of the radiator cap, fan clutch and thermostat while doing the water pump. Is this really necessary? Also, it says that if the old pump will still circulate coolant, you should use chemical cleaner and backflush the coolant system. How is that even done?
No not really necessary IMHO but always a good idea. I'm not sure what a chemical flush is but here's a link from a thread that has good info about a coolant flush. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...questions.html Did the service manual say anything about a chemical Flush?
Can I flush it once the new water pump is in by draining it, then filling it up with distilled water, and repeating that a few times? Or, do I need to do it with the old water pump? Also, when I fill with distilled water after draining, do I add that to the radiator via the radiator cap?
The cooling system is so complicated with lot of cavities that it is impossible to fully flush it. I read a story of other car owner, that had the seller using wrong coolant of different color and after flushing it 3 times the new yellow coolant still got some old green stuff in it.
Not that you have to worry about it too much. Some old coolant contamination is included in the service interval calculations.
I installed coolant filter on my truck, even I bought it with almost 200k on it and used lifetime coolant from FleetPride. This coolant is fully mixable with other, so I just drained the old coolant and filled up with new stuff.
I have the 5 piece wrench set from autozone. There is one that fits around the 4 bolts on the pulley, but none fit on the fan clutch hex. What size is it?
I have the 5 piece wrench set from autozone. There is one that fits around the 4 bolts on the pulley, but none fit on the fan clutch hex. What size is it?
Can I flush it once the new water pump is in by draining it, then filling it up with distilled water, and repeating that a few times? Or, do I need to do it with the old water pump? Also, when I fill with distilled water after draining, do I add that to the radiator via the radiator cap?
According to Gooch's method you can use the distilled water. Here's a link. http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/...ctions-163800/ Have you tested your old antifreeze with Lithmus Strips? I just replaced my radiator but my coolant was still good so I di'nt flush just added antifreeze according to my trucks service manual. Im not sure if its better to flush before or after WP change but Yes add via the radiator cap.
Originally Posted by 74baja
I have the 5 piece wrench set from autozone. There is one that fits around the 4 bolts on the pulley, but none fit on the fan clutch hex. What size is it?
Yes 1 7/8" wrench or pipe wrench, I don't know why the tool from AZ wrench doe'snt fit. You really only need the one to hold the pulley. Remember to turn counter clockwise.
Originally Posted by Kajtek1
The cooling system is so complicated with lot of cavities that it is impossible to fully flush it. I read a story of other car owner, that had the seller using wrong coolant of different color and after flushing it 3 times the new yellow coolant still got some old green stuff in it.
Not that you have to worry about it too much. Some old coolant contamination is included in the service interval calculations.
I installed coolant filter on my truck, even I bought it with almost 200k on it and used lifetime coolant from FleetPride. This coolant is fully mixable with other, so I just drained the old coolant and filled up with new stuff.
IIRC the 99 models use a different coolant than the 01's make sure to use what is required for your year make model according to Ford or International which I believe is the yellow. I went to the dealer and bought mine so I was certain I got the right coolant. Fleetpride Extended Life is good as well though.
Last edited by 60RatRod; May 25, 2009 at 03:10 PM.
Reason: add info
OK, I used a pipe wrench and got it all apart, pump off. I think I'll need a new thermostat anyway because the old one is really stuck in the pump, and I'm afraid if I bang it around too much I'll break it. How much is a thermostat? Also, I'm having quite a time trying to get the tall fitting that is top and center off, it's in real tight. So far so good, had to pack it in for tonight, so I just stuffed rags in all the exposed openings.
I have a question:
Whats the benefit of the 203 thermostat. I have a GM LT1 350 and understand the benefit of running a 170 degree stat in it, but don't understand the reason behind the 203.
Thanks Dan
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.