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Leaking Rear Diff

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Old May 22, 2009 | 12:21 AM
  #1  
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
Leaking Rear Diff

Back again fellas, my rear diff is leaking where the driveshaft meets the diff. The "knuckle" is wet and so i am assuming it is the seal right there? It is throwing the fluid all over the place and making a mess, i dont see it as being expensive or difficult but i need the advice on what to buy/where to buy and things like that. Thanks!
 
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Old May 22, 2009 | 12:36 AM
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It's called a pinion seal...

There is going to be two sides of the fence on this one...

Side 1
You can mark the end of the pinion shaft and the nut, remove the nut and yoke, replace the seal, and put it back together, tighten the nut to the same place (marks align) it was.

Side 2
Pull the whole thing apart and replace the crush collar and go through the proper assembly and adjustment sequence. (Gear Setup and Pinion Preload) Takes a dial indicator and torque wrench (inch pound I think)

I've seen to many #1's eat the ring and pinion and am not a fan of it. I prefer to go ahead and go through the whole rear end and be done with it!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old May 22, 2009 | 03:08 AM
  #3  
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From: Sweet Home, OR
It might be leaking out of the slines on the yoke also.
The 10.25s are notirious for that. The splines in the yoke wear and the oil leaks out there. You can replace the pinion seal over and over and it just keeps leaking.

Mine was leaking and I couldn't be sure it wasn't ONLY the seal
SO here's what I did.

I polished the seal surface of the yoke since it had a groove where the seal had been running. (That's not the "right" way however.)
I installed a new pinion seal.
There is a rubber "seal" in there you will find when you take it all out. I used black RTV on that rubber deal before I reinstalled it to seal the spline leak, if there was one.

As far as the crush sleeve goes: I just reinstalled it to 150 ft. lbs. as others have done with sucess.

NONE of this is the "right" way to do it but mine's been runing that way for 6 months, perfectly.
 
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Old May 22, 2009 | 06:51 AM
  #4  
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In addition to the good info above, ensure the axle breather tube (small rubber hose) is clean and free of any blockage. Internal pressure in the axle can force oil out past seals if blocked..... normally axle seals.
 
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Old May 22, 2009 | 09:31 AM
  #5  
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Thanks for the help fellas! I have the haynes book for diesels, would the regular ford truck book have info on how to replace all of that? Thanks
 
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Old May 22, 2009 | 09:01 PM
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You need the other book that has the rest of the truck in it along with the gasoline engine info.
 
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Old May 22, 2009 | 11:51 PM
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
Originally Posted by Dave Sponaugle
You need the other book that has the rest of the truck in it along with the gasoline engine info.
perfect that is what i meant by the regular ford truck book! Thanks!
 
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Old May 12, 2011 | 06:59 AM
  #8  
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From: Sweet Home, OR
Just bringing this one back from the dead.

I had to do the same procedure I described above about a year after I did it the first time so that would have been towards the end of 2009. That time I just tightened up the pinion nut with my MAC 1/2" impact at about 120 PSI as tight as it could get it.

I've driven on the second "CHEAPO" fix described above for around a year and a half now(and A LOT more miles durring this 18 months than that first twelve) and it hasn't leaked since.



Just thought I'd update for anyone as cheap as me that wants to risk doing the wrong/easy/cheap way.
 
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Old May 12, 2011 | 09:17 AM
  #9  
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I had the same problem as you. My leak was coming from the universal joint. I cleaned my axle vent and installed a new vent and I have not seen one drop of oil come from it since.

I have piiiicturess.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tial-vent.html
 
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Old May 13, 2011 | 10:13 PM
  #10  
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if the pinion seal is bad than the outer axle seals are problaly not far behind.
 
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