When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Happy with the mod...been 5,000 miles now and am happy with it i did the re-route with a plug in the intake....my question is...
I had a pvc cap in the hole in the intake tube and a clamp.....then i replaced it with a brass plug and clamp.....i am lookin for something a little more reliable...chances of the brass plug coming out and going into the intake are slim i mean that thing is really in there but i would like to find something that will fit over the hole and clamp down or in it without the poss of it becoming dislodge or sucked in the intake....any ideas....what have yall been running???
OH BTW!..DO NOT USE PVC CAPS IN THE INTAKE PVC IS ONLY RATED TO 75 DEGREES IT WILL MELT EVENTUALLY...I CAUGHT MINE BEFORE IT MELTED...it was deformed tho lol
On a side note was happy to see when i last took intake apart that it was o so clean not a spec o dirt which is how one should be lol so anyway any help appreciated thanks!
I used a rubber stopper that has a bolt with a nut so u can tighten the bolt and it expands the rubber stopper. Seems to work really well, i tried prying it out and couldn't even buge it.
riggz PVC is "rated" at only 75 go look for yourself reg. schedule 40 pvc is rated at 75...but need less to say mine was deformed a bit and the point is an engine bay is not the place for PVC fittings...
Go look where? PVC is rated in psi @ 73* F. It can handle over 150* F. You're not running any pressure through the cap so there's no need to derate it.
Happy with the mod...been 5,000 miles now and am happy with it i did the re-route with a plug in the intake....my question is...
I had a pvc cap in the hole in the intake tube and a clamp.....then i replaced it with a brass plug and clamp.....i am lookin for something a little more reliable...chances of the brass plug coming out and going into the intake are slim i mean that thing is really in there but i would like to find something that will fit over the hole and clamp down or in it without the poss of it becoming dislodge or sucked in the intake....any ideas....what have yall been running???
OH BTW!..DO NOT USE PVC CAPS IN THE INTAKE PVC IS ONLY RATED TO 75 DEGREES IT WILL MELT EVENTUALLY...I CAUGHT MINE BEFORE IT MELTED...it was deformed tho lol
On a side note was happy to see when i last took intake apart that it was o so clean not a spec o dirt which is how one should be lol so anyway any help appreciated thanks!
I would think a rubber plug of some sort would be best, but if you want to use plastic, use cpvc instead of pvc (since you mentioned that the pvc plug looked heat effected).
Just in the interest of this thread I'll check on my plug which is a PVC cap but inserted into the hole and glued. I'd be willing to bet it's not deformed and is still snug.
I don't know why but that comment of it sitting on the shelf and melting made me laugh for a while....
I have never heard of PVC rated @ 75*. I have schedule 40 PVC that has been sitting in the same spot (no water running through it, just wiring for malibu lights), exposed to 110*+ weather for 12 years, still holding and not deformed.
As a plumber by trade yes pve will hold higher heat that 75 degrees. And no it is not heat rated that is why they use cpvc with hot water systems. Pvc will degrade with hot and cold cycles and is not suppost to be used where it will be in contact with uv rays. This is part of the reason electricians use the gray colored pipe that is similar to sch 40 pvc. The temps under the hood of 200+ degrees is enough heat to deform pvc and also make it brittle. The mechanical codes do not allow pvc, pex, or cpvc to be with in 18" linear inches from the inlet of a water heater that produces at best 160-200 degree water. I would pass on pvc my self under the hood and for just about any application other that use as a drain.
Every bit of information I can find is that PVC is pressure tested at 73* FARENHEIT.............
If you say it's heat rated at 75* C then that would put it at 167*F.
I do agree with the heat overtime making it brittle, but the way I did mine there is no way for it to deform. Plus, since it is connected to the intake tube I would think that the intake temperature would be pretty close to the temperature of the intake tube. I've never seen intake temps higher than 130*F.
You guys do know that the intake tubes are plastic? Not the same grade, but they hold up plenty fine.
riggz PVC is "rated" at only 75 go look for yourself reg. schedule 40 pvc is rated at 75...but need less to say mine was deformed a bit and the point is an engine bay is not the place for PVC fittings...
Shawn,
What size expansion plug did you get?
I'm pretty sure it was a 1/2 inch. It was in the radiator section at oreillys and it was the smallest one they had with a heavy duty bolt on it.
I used today a 3/4" slip Plug, fits snug with clamp.
Here is a new CCV modification, I routed the CCV tube under the stock air box, exit under my Zoodad Modification threw the radiator support. I went the Auto parts store and purchased a chrome breather filter. Clamped it to the end of 1" heater hose. When it is running the smelly fumes will/may find there way back into the intake.
I am going to give it a try, my method seems to be much cleaner looking than running 20' of heater hose down the frame. It really looks factory because it runs underneath the intake and the Air Box.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.