Gents:

Have a '95 full size Bronco - stock - 351 Windsor - purchased 5 years ago with 115K miles - now has 165K miles - had mechanic change tranny fluid and filter about 4 years ago at 130K miles - has always and continues to shift very smoothly through all gears - about 4 months ago, overheated tranny (boiled out about 1 quart of fluid) pulling up fence posts - I added one quart of fluid and kept on going - no problems since then, still shifts smooth as silk - have now started to pull a 4,200 lb travel trailer - pulls it easily - however, buddys are telling me I should change tranny fluid and filter, just make sure not to do a power flush. I would like to change the fluid and filter myself, but have never done so before - I do change my own engine oil and filter. Would much appreciate one of you guys walking me through process of changing tranny fluid and filter and also get your thoughts as to whether you think changing it now is a good idea (kind of hate to disturb things down there when it continues to shift so smoothly).

Many thanks,

Skeetman

 

I have a 93 and have done a shift kit, converter change and fluid and filter. I am a little suspicious that the tranny overheat may be from slipping clutches in the OEM converter. That is a standard characteristic for them to blow fluid out the front seal and then, after cooling down, add fluid and work fine. It may be an indication of a problem that will only get worse if pulling trailers.

The problem comes not from pulling in OD, but from the converter lockup, which is automatic and not under the drivers control. When locked up, the clutches in the converter will slip when under load, just like a slipping manual clutch only the oil will superheat since the clutches are immersed in tranny fluid. If that is the problem, changing fluid and filter will not cure it.

It wont hurt to change fluid/filter but isnt cheap for the type IV fluid, but be aware and watch things when towing. Make sure to add the biggest external cooler you can find for the tranny and maybe it will delay things. Ultimately, be prepared to change to a converter with later clutches (LUK) and dont continue to run without doing something if it continues to overheat. A shift kit will help also, they usually address low line pressures and can be done without radical shifting. I did an inexpensive Baumann kit for the E4OD and it has worked well. LOL

 

Change it due to your future plans with a heavy trailer and keep it out of OD in the hills to reduce shifting. I agree with your buddies, don't do just a flush. Clean the metallic goo from the magnet in the pan. Did the mechanic also drain the torque converter? You will need about 16 qts for everything. Buy the ATF according to the dip stick suggestion. Be sure the gasket that slips over the neck of the filter comes out with the old filter. Other than being very messy, the first time I did it several months ago was easy. Be sure to find a place to recycle. Zone would not take ATF, O'Reillys did. If you have the tow package an additional transmission cooler is in front of the radiator. If you don't already have mechanical guages I suggest a triple set and include trans temp due to your plans. The 95 should have the tranny upgrade warranty work already. My 94 got it in first year. Another thought, the better the sensors are on the engine, the better the transmission operates. Replace the oxygen sensor at 60-90K. Pull the ACT and ECT and check resistance in your oven at different temps and compare to the charts even if not throwing codes.

 

One other suggestion, while you have the pan off---. In the small "sump" at the bottom of the pan, drill a hole and add a pan drain on the side of that sump (not the very bottom of it). Also make sure you have the inside nut of the drain "tacked" (welded) to the pan or it will start to slip and not let the drain plug tighten. It makes future ventures into the pan much cleaner and you wont have to "wear" as much tranny fluid! .

I am not sure if my 93 5.8 had the tlr tow pkg, but think it did. The external cooler can be improved upon. I agree with adding a tranny temp guage. I would put mine right at the tranny where the oil is the hottest, which is in the feed line to the external cooler. To me (.02) measuring temp of oil in the pan does not tell much. That is after it has been through all coolers and should be the very coolest fluid. I have the brass ftg's to put a sensor in the line, just have not had the ambition-----I dont tow much lately.

 

Does anyone have a schematic- (exploding diagram) of the E40D- I have Haynes- its ok.

Also, when I had the transmission fluid changed 100K ago, OEM fluids were added- I drove for 1500miles then returned- -drained the OEM's and added an upgraded fluid.

What was my reasoning for the added drain and fill? I think I'm oldsheimering

 

In my fat little fingers I happen to have an "ATSG" manual for the "FORD E4OD" tranny. Way back, I did a shift kit (Baumann, ~45K) and much later at ~125K I had to replace the Tq Conv. This manual is a full manual and gives tear down/assembly info and pictures. I think I got if from a "Dacco-Detroit" transmission parts outlet here in Orlando, Fl. but I believe that I have seen them advertised in mailorder houses----not sure. Also gives trouble shooting procedures. I also have one for the AOD.

Last time, I went with a synthetic or semi sythetic fluid--I think it was valvoline. Dont forget to put a drain plug and weld the inside nut---its worth it. I have another small block bell pattern E4OD in the shed dissassembled and cleaned, ready for my new parts and assembly, waiting on "roundtuits"---doing a lot of that lately. Sure would like to stumble upon an E4OD case for the Big Bell pattern (460) .

 

Duh! I think Steve83 has diagrams

 

Hey Ben,

My E40D is blowing fluid every time I drive at 75 or higher. It also does it when I tow something heavy. It's coming from the front seal. I figured I was going to change it. I was debating weather I wanted to just change the seal or rebuild the tranny. When the tranny gets hot it shifts a little funky. Not terible. But is normal after it cools. Been putting it off. Do you think I could get away with just changing the converter and seal? I have to admit I dont feel like taring into it. Do you have a recomended converter?

PS Next time I vist the folks, I think I'm going to visit you and do some copying of your manual. LOL

 

Rich---
When I did my TC, it was because of impending doom , at least I thought so. A mechanic friend told me that converter slippage in lockup (you can control OD, but not Lockup) superheated the oil and blew it out the seal. After cooling the seal would generally re-seat and hold oil again. I am sure you already know this, pardon my repeat. From that point on, until I replaced the TC, it also weeped a little oil out the seal and down thru the hole in the bottom of the bell.

Anyway, I got a rear main seal, a TC from a local "Dacco Detroit" dealer of tranny parts. I told them that I wanted LUK clutches (dont think they make anything else nowadays) and a heavy duty unit. They sold me a balanced TC for an E350 ambulance and was not expensive, ~$250.00---I think. Also got a converter case seal. I dont like the excessive stall of this converter, but I am not about to do it again for that.

I dont recall what year your bronc is, but if it is early, it is most likely the converter clutches slipping like mine did. Apparently, early ones did not have LUK (Multiple clutches and maybe better material) clutches and had a single clutch plate, they were famous for slipping---for numerous reasons, one being low apply pressure (line pressure) for which newer ones cured, and "Sonnex" makes a line pressure piston-----got one of them, but have not torn down the tranny to put it in. My shift kit seems to include a line pressure/shift fix, so I dont need the piston----yet!

After the TC and parts at ~125K (now only 150K) and hard driving at that with some towing, no leaks and I am very well satisfied with it-----I have not been into the tranny, and it shifts good, not too hard.

This is a "No S***" story----did it all by myself!! I have to charge $$$$ for that one .

Look out for a P.M.

 

With only 35k on an ATF change I wouldn't bother, unless the oil looks bad. I just changed mine around 230k (about 100k after the previous change) a couple of months ago, and the oil wasn't too bad. Anyhow, if you decide to change, you could just drain the TC and suck most of the oil out of the tranny with a pump. I took apart the old filter, and there were nothing in it.

Here are some pics of what I've done: http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r221...ver-oil-change

 

Good pics aurgathor, reminds me of the "fun" I had doing mine---actually wasnt too bad. I have used those pumps on marine engines to keep from standing on my head in a bilge, but then there was no "internal" filter to deal with. Amazing how quickly they will pull out the oil/fluid (thought I would be specific ).

In the view from the top of the removed tranny pan, it shows the "sump" at the very bottom. On the rear facing vertical side of that sump is where I placed a drain plug. Also had to eventually "tack" the inside nut into place, it will loosen up eventually when you crank on the outside drain plug if you dont. That way, you can drain the pan down to the sump area before dropping it. My .02 is that it is easier to use the drain plug rather than hook up a pump-----but that is just personal preference, not necessarily better. Also a good time for a mild shift kit if you are inclined. Almost got a good look at the MLPS for those who dont know what it is.
Anyway, good pics