valve adjustment
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From: In my own world
valve adjustment
I know this topic has been discussed, but i have had no luck with the search key. I have a 82 300, and it has the chevrolet rocker arms on it. I would like to know how to adjust the valves dry, before start up. I know how to adjust once running, but would like for it to be close when I first fire it up, so that I can break in the new cam. thanks
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From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
Are the lifters / cam hydraulic? In that case, you normally run through the firing order, turning the engine by hand and adjust them when both valves are closed. Should run down until the pushrod is snug with the rocker, and around 1.5 turns past that, if it's like most I can think of. Mechanical solid lifters are a different story, and I don't know the clearance numbers off the top of my head.
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From: Boise, Idaho
Hrm... I remember trying that method on my '81. I spent several hours, over and over again, adjusting, tightening, readjusting, turning the crank, etc, and never got anywhere. It clacked, complained, and everything just kept coming back loose. I called a mechanic, and he said that in the late 70s, it went to self adjusting. All you do is torque the rocker arm nuts down to 35 ft/lbs. I did that in 5 minutes, and 2 years later it's still as smooth as silk. Mine also has hydraulic lifters.
Not sure if this is the case on all of them, but it sure was on mine.
Not sure if this is the case on all of them, but it sure was on mine.
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From: Boise, Idaho
I did it this weekend. What a pain. There's still some oil spots underneath, so I'm really hoping it's not a poor seal, and is something else leaking. I'd rather tackle a second problem than the same one over again, especially an oil pan.
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From: Boise, Idaho
Valve cover's only a few years old, but it does look shiny back there. May be worth looking into.
Maybe a loose oil gauge sender or something, or (ack), rear main seal. Every time I get out, there's already a drip or two underneath.
Maybe a loose oil gauge sender or something, or (ack), rear main seal. Every time I get out, there's already a drip or two underneath.
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sometimes sender can leaks right where the wire hooks on. the valve cover on my 86 was new, but was leaking worse than before I replaced it, or you may still have some oil inside of the trans houseing leftover from the leaking oil pan..[ hope]
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hey dustybumpers, you mention you have an '86. I had an 86 some yrs ago and it would continually run after I shut it off. It was diagnosed as a carb problem. Ford quoted me about $1000 for the job. Needless to say, I didn't do it, just sold it. At the time, there were no aftermarket pieces for it so stock was my only option. Have you ran into this problem? I really regret selling her. I miss that truck. From the factory it had twin shocks up front, limited slip front and rear, 4 spd manual trans...best 4-wheeler I ever had.
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yup, right after I got the truck. there is a computer operated plunger that pushes the throttle open. I wound the adjustment all the way back so that it couldn't touch anything, then adjusted the idle like the old style carb. cured the run-on, but in summer you have to bump the idle up a little more for the a/c
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From: Boise, Idaho
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spray some purple power on the oil stain, and let it soak for a while. then take your water hose with a heavy spray, it will remove most of it. that's how I clean my pad where I pull my motors. glad to hear not the oil pan. sorry to hear valve cover. looks like time to put on a nice chrome one, e-bay has them for around $25 with grommets, and a chrome fill cap/breather