valve adjustment
Junior User
Joined: May 2009
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I have been trying to adjust the valves in my 84 300. Engine just turned over 100k with no apparent work ever being done other than being converted from propane to gas (sticker on valve cover states that Ford originally set it up to run on propane). Anyway, the rocker arms on #1 cyl. were extremely loose, like 3-4 turns of the nut. I adjusted them per the first method described above and it really quietened the engine down.
A couple of days later I decided to adjust the rest of the valves and noticed that #1 cyl. rocker arms are loose again, not as much, but too loose. Could this be the nuts working loose? Am I just noticing the effects of the lifters bleeding down after the engine has been shut down for a while? Anyone else experienced this?
A couple of days later I decided to adjust the rest of the valves and noticed that #1 cyl. rocker arms are loose again, not as much, but too loose. Could this be the nuts working loose? Am I just noticing the effects of the lifters bleeding down after the engine has been shut down for a while? Anyone else experienced this?
Junior User
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 50
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Ok can someone explain this. I have gone through and adjusted my valves as follows: I started with #1 @ TDC. Tightened both rocker arm nuts until I felt tension on the push rod and then tightened 1/2 turn more. I repeated the same on 5-3-6-2-4 turning the crank 120 deg. each time. When I get back to #1, the preload on the lifter is nearly gone and I can actually wiggle the rocker arms. Am I not setting the preload correctly? Should I use the 35 ft-lb torque method? The head does not have pedestal style studs. They are just screw-in studs with no step in the shaft.
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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Apr 27, 2009 10:11 PM
