anybody? bueller? lol. i am talking about the 5/16 fine threaded bolt that goes into the center of the pulley and holds it directly onto the crankshaft and is what actually turns the compressor when the clutch engages. the other day this bolt vibrated itself loose and there goes my pulley down the freeway. but i got it back and it still works like a champ and keeps me cool. thing is if i overtorque it then the compressor makes terrible noise and load on the engine. i absolutely hate these yorks and will not ever buy another. its remanufactured and blows ice cold and i did all the flushing, vacuuming, and charging procedures believe me. just need to get the specs for that bolt. seems to me its the most important bolt on that compressor. im also going to use lock tite.

 

okay well i guess what i'm gonna do is similar to a driveshaft center support bearing and also similar to an intermediate band adjustment. i'm going to put lock tite, torque it to 15 ft lbs, then back the bolt out 1/4 turn. or i'll back it out and then only torque it to 10 ft lbs. and post up the results, but i'm assuming nobody has this problem or hardly anybody has ac? i luvs me sum cold ac

 

well i tested the compressor with the bolt backed off a bit and with it torqued down gorilla tight and it makes no difference on the horrific vibration. only happens at 1500 rpms and comes from somewhere inside the compressor. she has plenty of oil and is properly charged. talked to my buddy that used to have a mustang with a york and he says yeah they are pieces of **** and thats just what they do. this really pisses me off though ya know? but then again it does blow 38 degrees from the vents.....

 

the one other place i would look for this info is in the offroad section or on an offfroad forum, many people use these for on board air.

 

Torque specs are usually nothing more than the torque figured out
by the bolt manufacturers for a specific grade, size and thread.

Can I have your York piece of ****? :)
I like ****. ;)

38F? :/
Sounds like it's over charged to me and the icky sounds it's making
also sounds like it might have gotten a little liquid in it. Both.

Flushing?
Did you go and switch to 134a? :/
Did you adjust your TXV?

Alvin in AZ
ps- I rebuilt my original York, it works great. :)

 

Check the high side pressure... are you sure you are getting enough air though the condenser?? When it is vibrating.. take a garden hose and cool off the condenser. It could just be the high pressure due to a lack of air flow.

 

how did you rebuild it? the rebuild kits i have found just give you new seals and the screen that goes on the head. what about the little crankshaft and bearings inside of it?
mine is remanufactured from four seasons. (one of the top 3 refrigeration giants). i had this same problem with my original compressor, then the same problem with the replacement, so traded it back in, and now the same problem with THIS replacement. all 3 yorks i have experienced put tremendous strain on the engine and would make a horrific vibration that is embarrasing and a nuisance that you can feel shake the whole truck, including the mirrors. but not all at the same rpms. this one does it at 1500 rpms. all other times its smooth as a babys bottom. at idle, smooth. 3000 rpms roaring down the freeway? SMOOTH. oh and its mounted upright, not sideways. has 12 ounces of r12 mineral oil.
read this http://www.4s.com/fourseasons/compressors.html we all know what happens when you assume. but um i'd assume they put out a decent product... dont get why it runs like caca.

 

i have searched EVERYWHERE. this is because i am so **** about stuff like this and it irritates the hell out of me. this is a good link that i have bookmarked and i take a look at once in awhile York air compressor

 

any other ideas?

 

what about going to an old school AC repair shop and ask them?

you could ask some people that have them to go out and check what tourqu theirs are at?

 

Danger_Dave wrote:
>how did you rebuild it?
>the rebuild kits i have found just give you new seals and the screen that
>goes on the head. what about the little crankshaft and bearings inside of it?

The rear bearing is nothing more than the -the- most common ball bearing
in the world, a 6203. The front bearing is a Koyo 256211, that's 25mm ID
62mm OD and 11mm thick. Got it off the shelf at an automotive A/C supply
shop. :)

>all 3 yorks i have experienced put tremendous strain on the engine and
>would make a horrific vibration that is embarrasing and a nuisance that
>you can feel shake the whole truck, including the mirrors.

I never said they were the smoothest running or they weren't clunky! LOL :)

I don't want one of the other smooth;) running types in my pickup because
it wouldn't look like -my- pickup I've had for over 34 years if it had some
other type of compressor in it. That's all. :)

Nobody has to like that idea besides me, BTW.

---------------------

Dave wrote:
>Alvin wrote
>>Torque specs are usually nothing more than the torque figured out
>>by the bolt manufacturers for a specific grade, size and thread.
>i'm sure theres more reasons for torque specs than that.
>i.e. head gaskets,
>i.e. driveshaft center support bearing yoke,
>i.e. c6 intermediate band adjustment,
>i.e. wheel lugnuts

Are you going out of your way to find fault with what I say or does it just
look that way?

>>Can I have your York piece of ****?
>>I like ****.
>please take it. if i can have a sanden in exchange.

So, they both have the same value to you? ;)
I took a Sanden apart, it was very impressive inside. :)

>>38F? :/
>>Sounds like it's over charged to me and the icky sounds it's making
>>also sounds like it might have gotten a little liquid in it. Both.
>no its not overcharged....tag on the original compressor says charge
>2lbs of r12. (32 oz) i put 3 cans in it (36 oz) and i also have new
>custom goodyear barrier hoses which are MUCH larger than stock,
>and MUCH longer. was properly vacuumed to 28 hg for one hour and
>i tested for leaks as well. none. low side reading is 35 psi.

High side pressure?
Suction line temperature at the compressor?

>>Did you go and switch to 134a? :/
>did u see my signature?

Heck no. :)
I don't have that sissy crap turned on. LOL :)
I'm a newsgroup junky. :)

>no i refuse to switch to 134a. it is nowhere near as efficient as r12
>and especially in a system that was designed for r12.

Well, what do you know, we actually agree on something else. LOL :)

>>Did you adjust your TXV?
>no i did not adjust my thermostatic expansion valve. it is not adjustable.

Wow, that's a new one on me, never even -heard- of a TXV that was
-absolutely- -not- adjustable! LOL :)

>it consists of a temperature sensing bulb that connects to the discharge
>of the evaporator, as well as a pressure sensor that connects nearby
>on that discharge part, and then feeds a element ontop of the txv. then
>in addition a spring inside of the unit and all 3 self adjust and provide
>metering

I know how it works. LOL :)

At first it sounded like you might have slugged your compressor but now
I believe it's more just a case of you just bitching about normal old Ford
pickup stuff, and it not being good enough for you. ;)

Which is it, Dave? :)

Alvin in AZ

 

..........

 

$1000(!?)
Holy crap, Batman. :)

I've been messing with A/C for just a few years and at this point I believe
A/C work takes experience to master and a one-up job, attacking it like it
was an engine, buying fancy parts for it, won't make it work any better if
you don't know what you are doing. And sad to say I don't know what
I'm doing in the time I've been messing with A/C and prob'ly never will. :/

Perfection?
Sorry, but yes, that's too much to ask for, IME. :/

---------------------------------

Liquid can creep up the suction side and get in the compressor if it's the
least bit over charged. The incoming cool vapor cools the compressor.
It's a case of "a little bit more" is suddenly way too much, if liquid forms.

You'll see those guys feeling the suction line to be sure their new charge is
ok, but it's only a "double check" not to be relied on to charge a system.

----------------------------

Take your old TXV apart and you'll see the adjustment feature.
It's under the screw-on cap on the bottom of the TXV.
A 1/16 turn is quite a change so take it slow and easy (as you know).
I used a mirror (hard drive platter ;) to help me with mine.

I ain't a -real- A/C guy. :/
Real A/C guys don't talk about adjusting the TXV much. ;)

Took a -lot- of reading to find a single reference to it.
Was wondering if that wasn't the problem with mine, see?
Sure enough, ended up turning it like 3/16 of a turn and fixed my pressures
and temperatures and everything.

What got me to thinking about it was how the numbers weren't adding up,
it acted like it was too closed, and it was.

Alvin in AZ

 

oh believe me, i'm the last person to just throw money and throw parts at a problem hoping to fix it. i will go very much out of my way to hit the books and troubleshoot something properly.
but when you buy an as is factory a/c setup off ebay that has tons of pictures and looks like a great buy, then end up finding you you have rust in the lines, cracks and leaks in the hoses, busted crankshaft in the compressor, stuck shut expansion valve, and black death sludge in the condenser then you gotta do what you gotta do.