Okay so I was just out in the shop doing some more testing as per that video and when I probe the pip wire on the tfi module it is showing 24vdc being sent by the pip output with key on so my next question is could this somehow be a voltage regulator issue? I have tried 2 different distributors with the same result

 

Truck isn't running so voltage regulator wouldn't come into play, alternator not creating any juice.

Should equal battery voltage so what is your battery reading using that same meter and same meter setting?

Did you set the scale on your meter correctly? turn "auto scale" off if necessary?
Always use the lowest scale to what you are testing, for example testing 12v DC on my meter I set it to 20v DC. A meter provides the most accurate reading when doing so, smallest margin of error.

 

Battery is reading 12.86vdc I thought my digital multimeter was misreading so I tried an old analog voltmeter as well and yeah same thing soon as I turn the key on it shoots right up to constant 24vdc and when I ground the circuit on the pip wire to see if I get a spark from the coil I get nothing but I can hear it shorting or sparking inside the distributor. Like I said earlier it is a totally remaned distributor

 

What effect does pulling the pcm diode have on that reading?

Did you replace those two relays? or at least the PCM relay?

And yea EEC = PCM I tend to use the two universally as I keep thinking everyone knows they are the same.

Electronic engine control | Power control module both = "computer", the latter of the two came to be after the computer also controlled the transmission operation with the engine.
Sorry if caused ya little confusion.

Anyway you have stray voltage and now this similar to the thread linked too, the PCM relay pretty much has to be the source of it (most likely suspect). Well quickest easiest way to find out for sure would be to simply replace the relay, might as well do the fuel pump relay at the same time.

If they weren't cheap? I wouldn't suggest replacing them solely based on what you stated you found in testing, there are other remote possibilities but they are so why not just replace them, that and they are likely original to the truck so could be considered suspect for that reason alone!

 

Is this with the engine cranking or not?

 

Okay I replaced the relays from my other running Bronco and I figured I would check the wiring harness going to the power panel and sure enough someone has done a little splicing in the harness itself. It seems I have done something along the way the power to the pip wire on the tpi is now reading 10vdc with key on and it bounces between 10vdc and 4vdc now and 12vdc on both sides of coil but still no spark coming from the coil. Still getting that 3.6vdc from the outgoing on the pcm common power

 

That is a factory connection.

It seems I have done something along the way the power to the pip wire on the tpi is now reading 10vdc with key on

Try putting its relays back in see what effect that has on your reading, just to see if that was the cause of the differing results.

And subford asked a good question, I assumed it was KOEO not cranking reading. That when you seen that 24v reading you stopped to ask before going further, possible I'm wrong in that assumption.

When you say it bounces between 10vdc and 4vdc now is that just sitting key "on"? or is that a reading while cranking?

 

Your voltage readings aside,

Do you have spark if you jump PIP circuit to ground as shown in the video? (jump ahead try it a minute if you haven't yet)

If so then that new distributor would be suspect, the PIP or just it's PIP ground connection.

 

When you say it bounces between 10vdc and 4vdc now on the PIP wire is what it should do while cranking.
If both sides of the coil are at battery voltage and ICM side is not going on and off would say you have a bad ICM. Voltage on both sides says there is a complete power path through the Ignition Coil.

If you have one I would think a loading test light would work a lot better for you than the meter.

 

OMG there is a god after all this bull**** I was checking wires and going thru everything and I found a few wires in the harness that looked a little rough and I changed out the new high priced msd coil put an old stock Ford on in and it fired right up like a champ....Man I can not thank you guys enough for the awesome information. Now I just have to get out there and set the timing and button up all the loose stuff I messed with along the way. Roughly how will it take to learn and set all the parameters now that I have disconnected the pcm and everything?

 

About 10 miles.

 

Did you find something that needed repaired?

 

Naw nothing major like I said just a couple wires that I chopped out of the harness and replaced and the brand new msd coil that I put in. Seems to be running a little erratic almost like it has a vacuum leak or a little misfire it is idling low at about 500rpm but I am going to take it for a good run tomorrow and hopefully that will iron out a few of the kinks. It has been sitting for about 7 months before I got it so I am going to put in a little octane boost and fill er up with some supreme. Then its time to find some mud and get those tires spinnin get er nice and dirty....lol

 

Im betting the "High Priced" MSD coil is the culprit. I've had 2 fail within 2 years of each other and wouldn't dare try another one again. My 25+ year old ignition coil worked and still fires my truck over.

The best start to ignition troubleshooting is stock parts. I got lucky and learned this fairly early in my SBF endeavors!

Glad to see its up and running!!