Duraspark 2 conversion parts?
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Address them by picture number, that way i know what your talking about.
im not sure if these will help anyone else out.
I can always get more. let me know.

Photo is of my 1986 F150 XLT 300 C6
This photos is the 3 connectors you will need you find.
The one with the single green wire (middle one in the photo) is for the tach.
The one in the right side of the photo will power the DS2 module, mine has 3 wires but you only need 2.
There are 3 plugs on the left inner fender, the one with 3 wires (one red and one white wire) will power the DS2 module; the one with 4 wires will power the coil positive, oil press, water temp with one extra hot wire that you wont use; the third plug will have 2 wires (2 on firewall side and one on the engine side) and the green one is the feed to the tach. If you have a V8 engine, you will have 2 wires on each side of the plug.
The engine side of the 4 wire plug will need to be open up and reworked. You must unwrap the black tape (engine side) to see where the wires go. You really don’t need to disconnect the 4 wire plug. Two of the wires must not be cut as they are for the oil pressure and water temp. The other two wires are power wires. You will have to be cut them near the distributor as they are currently connected together. This will give you enough slack to butt splice the correct power wire to the coil positive feed wire in the junk yard harness. The correct power wire will feed the coil using the resistor wire currently in your trucks harness. You must feed the coil with only one of these two wires to get the voltage dropping effect of the resistor wire. The correct wire is , red with a green strip on my truck, which is the fat one on the firewall side of the connector in the 4 wire plug on the left inner fender. This is a resistor wire to drop the voltage to the coil.
If you pick the power correct wire, the voltage at the coil positive with the truck running will be a lower voltage then you will see at the battery positive.
If you pick the incorrect power wire (or both wires) you will see the same voltage on the coil positive as the battery positive.
I have complete removed my computer and all the wiring harness that went with it and I would recommend you do the same as you don’t need it after you switch to the DS2 ignition. It will take some time to remove all the old wires and parts you don’t need.
Right now you are getting fixed timing with no advance. I drove my truck for years this way, so it will run fine but the MPG and power will be less than it should be.
Jim
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Address them by picture number, that way i know what your talking about.
im not sure if these will help anyone else out.
I can always get more. let me know.
that hooks up to the smog pump.the smog pump pumps air through a hose to that fitting and pumps air into the exhaust or to the cat to help burn off emissions from the exhaust.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts

i guess if anyone sees this post, check the pictures and see what you can tell me. ill need a little more help on converting it when i get paid. im gonna buy the harness from lariat when i get the money.









