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when truck is hot, would stumble and die at idle.
on the highway or around town with ANY throttle would run like a champ.
replaced:
ignition control module
plugs
wires
cap
rotor
stator
coil
(all needed replaced anyways so no big deal)
fixed all the vacuum leaks (removed smog)
fixed exhaust leaks
used ether to check for any other leaks.
finally figured out what it was...
the check valve in the line going from the evap recovery to the evap canister, with the "T" that went to the PCV valve was bad.
while idling the Fuel pump was not pushing fuel into the carb fast enough. The bad check valve was allowing the vacuum from the motor to suck the hot gas out of the bowl.
ran a line straight from the port on the carb to the evap canister, and plugged the small outlet on the PCV valve...
Wow great job. Sounds like one of those little things that would be tough to track down. That small stuff can cause the biggest headaches sometimes. I'll keep that in mind in case I run across the same symptoms I'll know what it is. Thanks
I have one that goes to the brake booster, one that goes to the vacuum canister then to heat/defrost controls, one for pcv valve, one for distributor.....the "spider web" is gone though
Hmm, when I put my new engine in I think I will have power brake, HVAC, PCV, canister purge, fuel pressure regulator and EGR. EFI sure makes it simpler.
quick question....waht is the beef stew can looking thing in the passenger side fender well for? is it egr related? or is it just a vacuum canister? since i no longer have the egr and smog crap can i remove it?
Leave that can in there. It's for low vacumn situations to keep your HVAC controls functioning. If you were to remove it, I imagine everytime you floored it, you heater/A/C would go to defrost.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.