Hello All, New to the Forum as well as new to Ford Ownership. Always been a chevy guy ( NO SMART COMMENTS! LOL) but I inherited a '66 f100 with the FE 352 and 4 speed and HEY a classic is a classic RIGHT!
Anyway the body is in great shape with only 2 cancer RR cab Corner and the radiator support. Mechanically it seems sound, motor sounds good Tranny sounds/feels good ect. THe motor is/was however leaking from nearly every place possible and the clutch was bad (so I thought)
I have replaced all the engine seals and put in a new clutch. ALso replaced all the bushings on all the clutch linkage. My problem is that even after all that I still have to adjust the clutch linkage down to the last 2 threads before the release bearing will release the pressure plate. The release are doesn't look bent and all the linkage looks original. I do have about 1/2" to 3/4" play in the Release arm before I hook up the linkage. Is it possible that the Release bearing I got is wrong. Has any one else run into this problem?

Thanks to all for any help!!!!

 

Welcome to FTE

2WD or 4WD?

2WD: Does the clutch adjustment rod still have the separate (pointed end) extension that slides over the threads?

When the clutch wore down, the double nuts used to keep the extension in place worked loose, then the nuts and extension tended to fall off.

The adjustment rod is 3 29/32" long, the extension is: 2 27/32" long.

Is the anti-rattle wire spring that fits to the clutch release lever, then to the trunnion on the bellhousing still there?

Did you replace the two plastic bushings on the clutch rod that fits from the clutch pedal's bellcrank to the equalizer (Z) bar?

btw: I doubt it's the T/O bearing.

 

Thanks.... It is 2wd, Yes it still has the pointed adjustment bit. All the adjustment rod parts are there. Yes the anti rattle spring is still in place. Yes I replaced the bushing on the bell crank as well as the ones on the equalizer.

The reason I came to the conclusion that the Release bearing was not thick enough was the amount of play before I even hooked up the adjustment rod along with the fact that I ran into the same problem on my 78 Chevy 3/4 ton. An experianced, "Old timer"parts guy from the local dealer saw the "correct" release bearing given to me from the parts department and said that it was not thick enough. He went in the back rummaged around and came back with another that I put in. Minimal play and the truck has been problem free for 8 years now.

Any other ideas? If it helps I bought the clutch set up from NAPA.

 

Did'ja know that...as original...

...The T/O bearing was two pieces?

The bearing was one half of the equation (B8AZ7580A), the collar it rode on was the other (B7AZ7561A).

The collar came with a ZERK (grease) fitting, so the bearing could be lubed.

Ford replaced the two pieces in 1971 with a one piece (D1TZ7548A) assembly.

Then changed it again in 1978 with another (D8TZ7548A), changed it again in 1980 to EOTZ7548B.

So...which one did you get?

btw: See my signature...I didn't start doing this yesterday!

 

Pardon any confusion. I greatly appreciate your info and yes I did notice your signature in the original reply.

The "parts guy" I mentioned was for the issue I had on the 78 Chevy truck that I refered to as a reference to the problem ( just using past experiance). I haven't taken the tranny back out to take the T/O down to the Ford dealer.

I am not totally sure which PN the T/O I got is although I do know that it is likely the more modern one as it seems to be one peice and has no grease ZERK. It was the clutch kit from NAPA that was the clutch, pressure plate, Pilot bushing and T/O all together.

Haven't had a problem with NAPA parts in 20 years but does't mean it can't start now. Just looking for info/ ideas..

 

I caught that Chevy ref, edited the above post to reflect it.

The only thing I can think of...is either the clutch is in-correct, since everything else is the original stuff, or the T/O bearing is wrong.

What major city are you located near?

I'll see if anyone still has the correct original T/O bearing.

I'll do this later tonight, right now it's dinner time here in LA LA Land.

 

Rodger That!! I live in Raleigh NC. Enjoy your meal and thanks so much for your assitance.
I am fortunate to have a best friend that is owns a mechanic shop and has donated a bay and lift to me to to all the work to it is still sitting on the lift waiting for some TLC.

 

Rab'66

.................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. ........1000 Posts>>>>>>^^^^^
Welcome to ( FTE ) !

I have posted a lot about this very problem many, many Times! And I have completly

Solve this very Problem lots of times and never pulled the trans to do it ! This problem is

more that Likely is what I call the (" CRAYON ") on the end of the threaded rod ajuster!


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...-question.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...-question.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...djustment.html






Wally Womack

 

Be careful, don't touch gods cloud just because it gets close.




John

 

The original collar: B7AZ7561A was replaced by: B7AZ7561B

DENNIS CARPENTER OBSOLETE PARTS in Concord NC has NINE: 704-786-8139.

WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS in Liberty KY has FOUR: 606-787-5293.

GRIESEL MOTORS in Okarche OK has ONE.

WILLEY, INC. in Ames IA has ONE.
---------------------------------
The original T/O bearing: B8AZ7580A was replaced by C7AZ7580A

DENNIS CARPENTER has SEVEN.

GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 16: 800-543-4959.

KINSEL L/M in Beaumont TX has THREE: 800-816-2894.
-----------------------------------------------------
Both these parts were replaced in 1971 by a one piece assembly: D1TZ7548A

DENNIS CARPENTER has ONE.

MILLER OBSOLETE PARTS in Binghamton NY has ONE: 800-546-7278.
------------------------------------------------------------------
The "crayon" that Wally mentioned in post #8 is the extension: DOTZ7A504A

GREEN SALES has ONE.
-----------------------
DOTZ7A504A was also furnished with the clutch adjustment rod: DOTZ7521C

GREEN SALES CO. has FIVE.

KINSEL L/M in Beaumont TX has ONE.
------------------------------------
C5TZ7550A .. Clutch Disc / 11" / Fits: 1965/66 F100/350 352.

DENNIS CARPENTER HAS SIX.

GREEN SALES CO. has FIVE.
---------------------------
C8TZ7563B .. Pressure Plate / Fits: 1965/72 F100/350 352/360.

BOB ALLEN FORD in Overland Park KS has SEVEN: 800-676-0675.

KOEHN MOTORS in Wellington KS has ONE.
-----------------------------------------
Note: The bearing (C7AZ7580A) has to be pressed onto the collar (B7AZ7561B).

 

Bill, or anyone else...

Not sure if I am reading his problem correctly or not, but could this be a result of a machined flywheel? After having mine done, I could not get the original adjustment parts to work and had to fab up a longer (?--my memory is horrible and it was only months ago) adjustment mechanism to take up the increased tolerance.

 

Good call! I forgot about that.

If someone took too much off, the adjustment will be affected.

We also don't know over the past 43 years...how many times the flywheel has been machined.

C5AZ6375K .. Flywheel / Marked: C5AE-6380-J / (6) 5/16" pressure plate attaching holes on a 12 3/8" bolt circle / Use with 11" clutch.

Fits: 1965/67 Galaxie/LTD 352 / 1965/67 F100/350 352 / 1968/76 F100/350 360.

NOS PARTS SOURCE in Lenexa KS has ONE: 913-220-5746.

PEROGIE ENTERPRISES in Highstown NJ has ONE: 609-448-1684.
--------------------------------------------------------------
NOTE: The following clutch adjustment rod was used with 4WD, but it's the same specs as the one used with 2WD...only longer.

C5TZ7521A .. Clutch Adjustment Rod / 6 1/2" long.

Fits: 1965/66 F100/250 4WD.

ANTIQUE AUTO SUPPLY in Arlington TX has TWO: 817-275-2381.

GRIESEL MOTOR CO. in Okarche OK has ONE.

 

Thanks all for the great info. I have checked all the linkage and all is OK. Bushings are spanking new and the correct adjusting rod/ "crayon" are in place. I went by the shop today after work and checked everything. I pulled the linkage free from the release arm and measured the amount of play there was... there is 1 and 1/8 inch of clearence between the release bearing and the forks on the pressure plate. This I am quite sure isn't correct. I did have the fly wheel turned and as ddavidv mentioned and clearly there is no way to tell how many times it has been turned in the past however I talked to the guy that did it and he said it is "still well with specs" Doesn't mean it couldn't be the problem; however I can imagine that over an inch would have been turned off the flywheel. Could be wrong. have been before! LOL
Pro street/ state TX referenced his other posts which I have checked and I thought of that idea "if only as a last resort" I would like this to operate as it was intended.

Does anyone have the thickness spec for a full flywheel? I can measure it tomorrow to see if it is too thin. OR does anyone know how much clearence was originally intended to be between the T/O and the pressure plate arms when loose?
OR does anyone know the proper thinkness of the T/O from the FLywheel side of the bearing to the back of the plate mounting plate?

THANKS AGAIN to all for the great ideas and such.

 

I think that this INFO is very good and usable INFO that in todays economy something

Like a clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing, for some people it may make a

difference in someone ( Keeping there Truck or Selling it ), and to some it could Help them

Keep their JOBS! So when I add a LINK ,it is to make this INFO come up in a recent

Search because it could take hours to find out that in 2003 someone said that it could

be caused from ''BAD CAB CORNERS'' or cab mounts ! When I first started posting about

adding length to the " CRAYON " or linkage rod. I thought that I would get My Butt

Chewed for it, but it does work very well!


P.S.... Now in the 2nd ( LINK ) a member Links to a post where I posted two ( Links ) ,

In 2003 I posted a Very important ( DISCLAIMER ) that really needs to be read!


Wally Womack

 

If you resurfaced the flywheel, I believe you found your problem. The reason I say this is my truck just turned 100,000 and I replaced what very likely is the original clutch. I compared the release bearings carefully because the newer one had some plastic bits that the original did not (yippee, Chinese replacement parts. Don't get me started...). All appeared satisfactory. Yet, I had the same problem as you I believe.

I think what happens is that the small amount removed from the flywheel becomes a much larger problem once all the mechanical leverage of the release mechanism comes into play. That few sixteenth or whatever gets multiplied by the time it reaches the 'crayon' because you're dealing with a lever at the release bearing. That's my theory and I'm sticking to it.

Without climbing under my truck and looking again, I think my solution was to buy an adjustable threaded sleeve and/or a section of threaded rod to place between the crayon and the threaded eyelet bit. I do recall the eyelet wound up being too long and I had to cut it down a bit. None of the FoMoCo parts ND listed would have taken up enough of the slack as I measured it.