Electronic module for 1977 400cid
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 33
Likes: 1
From: Lynnwood, WA
Electronic module for 1977 400cid
I have a 1977 F250 with the 400 cid v-8.
It has started to have an intermitant starting issue that just became accute last night.
I suspect the electronic ignition module, as there is no spark.
Is there a simple trouble shoot to eliminate the ignition switch, the trigger in the distributor, maybe the coil, et al?
I am goin' to "Pull a Part" this morning to get a module, and maybe a distributor n' coil, (depending on the cost of said distributor).
I would assume a 351M would be the same as the 400 cid.
Yes, NO, maybe so?
Any other modules or distributors that work in this situation in case I can't fina a 1977 400/351M? Econoline vans et al?
Your help in this matter is greatly appreciated.
JR
It has started to have an intermitant starting issue that just became accute last night.
I suspect the electronic ignition module, as there is no spark.
Is there a simple trouble shoot to eliminate the ignition switch, the trigger in the distributor, maybe the coil, et al?
I am goin' to "Pull a Part" this morning to get a module, and maybe a distributor n' coil, (depending on the cost of said distributor).
I would assume a 351M would be the same as the 400 cid.
Yes, NO, maybe so?
Any other modules or distributors that work in this situation in case I can't fina a 1977 400/351M? Econoline vans et al?
Your help in this matter is greatly appreciated.
JR
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 790
From: Simi Valley, CA
Welcome to FTE
1977 Ford vehicles (cars/trucks) used TWO different ignitions modules.
What is the ID number that is cast into the Motorcraft module?
Like this D6AE-12A199-A1A for example.
No Motorcraft module?
What color is the square piece of plastic on the module just above where the wires feed out: BLUE or RED?
If this truck was originally sold new in CA, the module will be CA ONLY.
You have to replace the module you have now, with the same module. The BLUE module was used for many years, the RED module was only used 1976/79.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The three step scenario of a failing DuraSpark ignition module:
1) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine re-starts almost immediately.
2) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine re-starts in a hour or so.
3) Sooner or later, usually sooner, the module overheats...BURNS OUT. Now the engine will not re-start.
In addition to the ignition module, inside the distributor is a stator aka a pickup coil.
When it begins to fail, the symptoms are the same as a failing module. You should replace both parts.
The SAME stator was used in ALL the cars and trucks 1974/79 (except 1979 LTD's with EEC).
When you install the replacement module, use some washers to space it further away from the fender apron.
Engine heat radiating from the left exhaust manifold (V8's), is the mortal enemy of these modules.
Increasing the airflow around the module will help keep it cool.
1977 Ford vehicles (cars/trucks) used TWO different ignitions modules.
What is the ID number that is cast into the Motorcraft module?
Like this D6AE-12A199-A1A for example.
No Motorcraft module?
What color is the square piece of plastic on the module just above where the wires feed out: BLUE or RED?
If this truck was originally sold new in CA, the module will be CA ONLY.
You have to replace the module you have now, with the same module. The BLUE module was used for many years, the RED module was only used 1976/79.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The three step scenario of a failing DuraSpark ignition module:
1) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine re-starts almost immediately.
2) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine re-starts in a hour or so.
3) Sooner or later, usually sooner, the module overheats...BURNS OUT. Now the engine will not re-start.
In addition to the ignition module, inside the distributor is a stator aka a pickup coil.
When it begins to fail, the symptoms are the same as a failing module. You should replace both parts.
The SAME stator was used in ALL the cars and trucks 1974/79 (except 1979 LTD's with EEC).
When you install the replacement module, use some washers to space it further away from the fender apron.
Engine heat radiating from the left exhaust manifold (V8's), is the mortal enemy of these modules.
Increasing the airflow around the module will help keep it cool.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,760
Likes: 8
From: Gadsden Purchase
x2
What Bill the ND said. :)
But I went one step further when I moved my tomato can from in front of
the module, (moved it back to give me a spot for my knee;) looked like it
was blocking the radiant heat so...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/module.jpg
A brand spanking new Standard Motor Products module isn't that expensive
from RockAuto.com. Just depends on how you want to do it and how long
you intend to keep the pickup, etc? :)
Alvin in AZ '75 F150
ps- (since we're talking Ford, mine uses a different module than yours;)
What Bill the ND said. :)
But I went one step further when I moved my tomato can from in front of
the module, (moved it back to give me a spot for my knee;) looked like it
was blocking the radiant heat so...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/module.jpg
A brand spanking new Standard Motor Products module isn't that expensive
from RockAuto.com. Just depends on how you want to do it and how long
you intend to keep the pickup, etc? :)
Alvin in AZ '75 F150
ps- (since we're talking Ford, mine uses a different module than yours;)
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 33
Likes: 1
From: Lynnwood, WA
Welcome to FTE
1977 Ford vehicles (cars/trucks) used TWO different ignitions modules.
That is what I wanted to know. Thank you.
What is the ID number that is cast into the Motorcraft module?
I will go look at the truck and get the number from it prior to the trip to the bone yard.
I may buy two modules since they are used and cost only $8.50 per module, and may have also suffered some heat damage in their lifetimes. Have one spare in the ol' tool box.
Like this D6AE-12A199-A1A for example.
Will do, the truck is about a 40 minute round trip ride form me right now so I will not know fer a few hours. Thanks to you: I now am much better armed to deal with this lay down.
No Motorcraft module?
It is the factory set up so I bet it is a "Motorcraft module". If memory servs, (only one brain cell left
), it is gray in color. My now deceased father bought the truck new and this has never been changed out (to my knowledge). The connectors may have the colors you are talking about I will know once I put my eyeballs on it prior to the trip to the bone yard.
What color is the square piece of plastic on the module just above where the wires feed out: BLUE or RED?
I will know that in an hour or two.
If this truck was originally sold new in CA, the module will be CA ONLY.
Nope: Seattle, Dad bought new, (we tend ta copy the CA Socialists as much as possible up here in God's Country), but I think the smog carp that was on this old girl was much less the the CA Ford trucks were.
I took off most of it anyhoo when I changed the carb.
It has an after market Holley "Street Domiator" aluminum intake and a 600 CFM (vacuum activated secondaries), Holley 4 barrel with large diameter duel exhaust, (that really made a big; no: HUGE difference in power output), from the stock tiny weenie 2 barrel carb.
Dad had me change that out way back in 1978 or 9 give or take.
You have to replace the module you have now, with the same module. The BLUE module was used for many years, the RED module was only used 1976/79.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The three step scenario of a failing DuraSpark ignition module:
1) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine re-starts almost immediately.
Yup.
2) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine re-starts in a hour or so.
Yup.
3) Sooner or later, usually sooner, the module overheats...BURNS OUT. Now the engine will not re-start.
Yup.
In addition to the ignition module, inside the distributor is a stator aka a pickup coil.
When it begins to fail, the symptoms are the same as a failing module. You should replace both parts.
That I will now try to do as well, (with yer sage advice).
The SAME stator was used in ALL the cars and trucks 1974/79 (except 1979 LTD's with EEC).
Great info.
When you install the replacement module, use some washers to space it further away from the fender apron.
Will do.
Engine heat radiating from the left exhaust manifold (V8's), is the mortal enemy of these modules.
That old truck has a huge engine well and there is a bit of distance from the exhaust. That said yer washer idea is a sound one that I will follow.
Increasing the airflow around the module will help keep it cool.
1977 Ford vehicles (cars/trucks) used TWO different ignitions modules.
That is what I wanted to know. Thank you.
What is the ID number that is cast into the Motorcraft module?
I will go look at the truck and get the number from it prior to the trip to the bone yard.
I may buy two modules since they are used and cost only $8.50 per module, and may have also suffered some heat damage in their lifetimes. Have one spare in the ol' tool box.
Like this D6AE-12A199-A1A for example.
Will do, the truck is about a 40 minute round trip ride form me right now so I will not know fer a few hours. Thanks to you: I now am much better armed to deal with this lay down.
No Motorcraft module?
It is the factory set up so I bet it is a "Motorcraft module". If memory servs, (only one brain cell left
), it is gray in color. My now deceased father bought the truck new and this has never been changed out (to my knowledge). The connectors may have the colors you are talking about I will know once I put my eyeballs on it prior to the trip to the bone yard.What color is the square piece of plastic on the module just above where the wires feed out: BLUE or RED?
I will know that in an hour or two.
If this truck was originally sold new in CA, the module will be CA ONLY.
Nope: Seattle, Dad bought new, (we tend ta copy the CA Socialists as much as possible up here in God's Country), but I think the smog carp that was on this old girl was much less the the CA Ford trucks were.
I took off most of it anyhoo when I changed the carb.
It has an after market Holley "Street Domiator" aluminum intake and a 600 CFM (vacuum activated secondaries), Holley 4 barrel with large diameter duel exhaust, (that really made a big; no: HUGE difference in power output), from the stock tiny weenie 2 barrel carb.
Dad had me change that out way back in 1978 or 9 give or take.
You have to replace the module you have now, with the same module. The BLUE module was used for many years, the RED module was only used 1976/79.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The three step scenario of a failing DuraSpark ignition module:
1) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine re-starts almost immediately.
Yup.
2) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine re-starts in a hour or so.
Yup.
3) Sooner or later, usually sooner, the module overheats...BURNS OUT. Now the engine will not re-start.
Yup.
In addition to the ignition module, inside the distributor is a stator aka a pickup coil.
When it begins to fail, the symptoms are the same as a failing module. You should replace both parts.
That I will now try to do as well, (with yer sage advice).
The SAME stator was used in ALL the cars and trucks 1974/79 (except 1979 LTD's with EEC).
Great info.
When you install the replacement module, use some washers to space it further away from the fender apron.
Will do.
Engine heat radiating from the left exhaust manifold (V8's), is the mortal enemy of these modules.
That old truck has a huge engine well and there is a bit of distance from the exhaust. That said yer washer idea is a sound one that I will follow.
Increasing the airflow around the module will help keep it cool.
You are very good THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!! Glad I joined here. JR
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 33
Likes: 1
From: Lynnwood, WA
x2
What Bill the ND said.
But I went one step further when I moved my tomato can from in front of
the module, (moved it back to give me a spot for my knee
looked like it
was blocking the radiant heat so...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/module.jpg
A brand spanking new Standard Motor Products module isn't that expensive
from RockAuto.com. Just depends on how you want to do it and how long
you intend to keep the pickup, etc?
Alvin in AZ '75 F150
ps- (since we're talking Ford, mine uses a different module than yours
What Bill the ND said.
But I went one step further when I moved my tomato can from in front of
the module, (moved it back to give me a spot for my knee
looked like it was blocking the radiant heat so...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/module.jpg
A brand spanking new Standard Motor Products module isn't that expensive
from RockAuto.com. Just depends on how you want to do it and how long
you intend to keep the pickup, etc?
Alvin in AZ '75 F150
ps- (since we're talking Ford, mine uses a different module than yours
Fortunately it is a good lookin' old girl.
I may stop by Shucks prior to the trip to the bone yard, if the module is priced reasonably I may do that instead of the trip bone yard.
I thought I would have to see a dealer fer a factory module.
I will look online here to see what the part would be. JR
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 33
Likes: 1
From: Lynnwood, WA
Wow I guess I offended someone in Central Corntrol.
My last post, (a polite reply to the Arizona feller), went to a "Moderator", and still has not been posted.
What did I do wrong? JR
My last post, (a polite reply to the Arizona feller), went to a "Moderator", and still has not been posted.
What did I do wrong?
JR
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 790
From: Simi Valley, CA
One of these sponsors is FTEpartsguy.com / Ed Olson @ PARR FORD in...Bremerton WA
Another of these sponsors is y2kfordparts.com / MILLENNIUM FORD in...Burien WA
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 33
Likes: 1
From: Lynnwood, WA
I found a new module nearby fer $35.00 with a 12 month warranty, (it was the blue tag [very common] type), late 1970s to the late 1980s.
I didn't change the distributor trigger, as she fired right up with the new module, whew!!!
Took the load to the destination and drove the truck home and cleaned and tightened the carb, tightened the belts, changed the plugs, air filter and cleaned the distributor cap, and timed her.
She should be good to go fer a few miles.
Thanks again. JR
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 6 Best Deals Available on New Fords & Lincolns Right Now
Brett Foote
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 33
Likes: 1
From: Lynnwood, WA
I know I am taking a chance.
If any starting or running problems persist I will change out the stator as well.
JR
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,760
Likes: 8
From: Gadsden Purchase
Did it come with instructions? ;)
Both my Standard Motor Products modules came with instructions,
same instructions as in the Ford Truck Shop Manual.
"Supposta" test the vehicle with a volt-ohm meter before installing
the new module because the vehicle may have messed up the old
module and not just from engine heat neither but from electrical
problems.
Wonder if the warranty covers that? ;) LOL :)
Prob'ly ok, just wanted to mention it in case it starts acting up, might
not be caused by something un-harmful like the trigger Bill th'ND and
Josh mentioned.
Got a meter? ...at least check the charging voltage for the fun of it? ;)
Alvin in AZ
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 33
Likes: 1
From: Lynnwood, WA
Alvin in AZ; Oops.
Did it come with instructions?
Yup.
Both my Standard Motor Products modules came with instructions,
same instructions as in the Ford Truck Shop Manual.
Hmmmmmm.
"Supposta" test the vehicle with a volt-ohm meter before installing
the new module because the vehicle may have messed up the old
module and not just from engine heat neither but from electrical
problems.
Instructions didn't mention a volt-ohm test.
Wonder if the warranty covers that? LOL
I followed instructions so warranty would cover.
Prob'ly ok, just wanted to mention it in case it starts acting up, might
not be caused by something un-harmful like the trigger Bill th'ND and
Josh mentioned.
Truck has meter in the dash that indicats charging system is charging as it should and the battery is also fully charged. I will throw my meter on it to verify today, that is very easy to do.
Got a meter? ...at least check the charging voltage for the fun of it?
Alvin in AZ
10-4 JR
Did it come with instructions?
Yup.
Both my Standard Motor Products modules came with instructions,
same instructions as in the Ford Truck Shop Manual.
Hmmmmmm.
"Supposta" test the vehicle with a volt-ohm meter before installing
the new module because the vehicle may have messed up the old
module and not just from engine heat neither but from electrical
problems.
Instructions didn't mention a volt-ohm test.
Wonder if the warranty covers that?
LOL I followed instructions so warranty would cover.
Prob'ly ok, just wanted to mention it in case it starts acting up, might
not be caused by something un-harmful like the trigger Bill th'ND and
Josh mentioned.
Truck has meter in the dash that indicats charging system is charging as it should and the battery is also fully charged. I will throw my meter on it to verify today, that is very easy to do.
Got a meter? ...at least check the charging voltage for the fun of it?
Alvin in AZ
10-4 JR
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 33
Likes: 1
From: Lynnwood, WA
Great tip re: washers behind the module!!
JR