Easy way to gain HP on 1996 F150 5.0L
If it is one of those "cold air" kits that has a conical filter that sits under the hood in the open, take it back. All these setups do is suck in hot air from under the hood. The best way to modify the air intake on these trucks is to get the air intake tube off of a truck with a 300 or a 460 (they mount right up to your airbox) and get a reusable drop in filter. Since your truck is a '96 it has mass air, so if you get an oiled filter, be careful not to overoil the filter as it will dirty the mass air sensor. Honestly, the air intake is not much of a problem in these trucks, exhaust is the biggest problem.
Make sure the ignition system is tuned up good with new high quality spark plugs, wires, a cap, and rotor. I use Bosch plugs (a lot of people will tell you these are crap, but they have always been good to me) and Motorcraft wires, cap, and rotor. When tuning up the ignition make sure your base timing is set to 10 degrees btc, and you might be able to bump it to 12 or so, just make sure you don't get any detonation. This will give you better off-idle response.
Exhaust is where to go next. Mufflers, improve sound, but won't add any noticable power. Get a set of headers (if you get shorties, upgrade the y-pipe as well, the stock one is garbage), a high-flow cat (delete it if you don't have emmissions testing), a good performance muffler, and new pipe. Go with 2.5" pipe from the headers to where it merges in the y-pipe, and then run a 3" single the rest of the way out.
Next, if you are willing to get into some more complex stuff, get a cam. Get a good truck cam that has a power band starting no later than 1,500 RPM, preferably get one that starts at idle. Lumpy cams sound cool, but suck for trucks. Since you have mass air, you don't have to worry about any of the truck cams working with your computer.
After this, you get into the expensive stuff like heads, intake manifolds, etc.
Good luck with your truck and have fun!
Make sure the ignition system is tuned up good with new high quality spark plugs, wires, a cap, and rotor. I use Bosch plugs (a lot of people will tell you these are crap, but they have always been good to me) and Motorcraft wires, cap, and rotor. When tuning up the ignition make sure your base timing is set to 10 degrees btc, and you might be able to bump it to 12 or so, just make sure you don't get any detonation. This will give you better off-idle response.
Exhaust is where to go next. Mufflers, improve sound, but won't add any noticable power. Get a set of headers (if you get shorties, upgrade the y-pipe as well, the stock one is garbage), a high-flow cat (delete it if you don't have emmissions testing), a good performance muffler, and new pipe. Go with 2.5" pipe from the headers to where it merges in the y-pipe, and then run a 3" single the rest of the way out.
Next, if you are willing to get into some more complex stuff, get a cam. Get a good truck cam that has a power band starting no later than 1,500 RPM, preferably get one that starts at idle. Lumpy cams sound cool, but suck for trucks. Since you have mass air, you don't have to worry about any of the truck cams working with your computer.
After this, you get into the expensive stuff like heads, intake manifolds, etc.
Good luck with your truck and have fun!
If you shopped around, you could do the entire exhaust for $300. Take the air intake back if you have not installed it, so you have more money to buy stuff that will actually increase performance. If you can't take it back, take it off and sell it on eBay. The hot air these things suck in is actually detrimental to performance. I did my entire exhaust for around $300, minus the high-flow cat. Before doing any performance mods, make sure the thing is tuned up good. Then start with your exhaust. The exhaust systems that come on these trucks are pure crap. Get rid of it and you will see a good improvement.
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yup 100lbs = .1 secs in the 1/4 gut the interior make an alluminum dash stop eating red meat and fast food take the windows out put in lexan get rid of the inner door skins pull the bench seat in favor of a alluminum racing seat
hahaha i'm just being an idiot but the 100lbs=.1 secs in the 1/4 is actually pretty true
hahaha i'm just being an idiot but the 100lbs=.1 secs in the 1/4 is actually pretty true
yup 100lbs = .1 secs in the 1/4 gut the interior make an alluminum dash stop eating red meat and fast food take the windows out put in lexan get rid of the inner door skins pull the bench seat in favor of a alluminum racing seat
hahaha i'm just being an idiot but the 100lbs=.1 secs in the 1/4 is actually pretty true
hahaha i'm just being an idiot but the 100lbs=.1 secs in the 1/4 is actually pretty true
I think the best bang for your bucks would be long tube headers & custom exhaust . That will give you a good performance increase & save you weight at the same time . And yes in racing weight means everthing . A few pounds here & there add up....Lew
What all is involved with adding performance exhaust components to a truck. Is the work envolved able to be done my some one will little mechanical xp? I would love to have a nice sounding exhaust and or a little power increase on my 94 i6.
yeah 1 problem with the i6 is they sound good in the LOW LOW rpms but once they clime it starts to sound ricey and i dont like that but talk to 6cylbill hes done a few different setup on the 6er and has sound clips
but for your v8 id say a set of longtube headers and either gut the cat and put a bigger tailpipe one it or you could buy the longtubes 2 hi-flo cats or another cheap one and gut them bothe then run true duals with some bigger pipe...as for mufflers...you have a v8 you dont need one
but for your v8 id say a set of longtube headers and either gut the cat and put a bigger tailpipe one it or you could buy the longtubes 2 hi-flo cats or another cheap one and gut them bothe then run true duals with some bigger pipe...as for mufflers...you have a v8 you dont need one






