92 rear axle
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 5,242
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From: Kiev, Ukraine
yeah, this is dampher, but I think aerostar V6 powertraine does not generate so notisible vibrations making this part really neccessary. May be it appeared in early 4cyl aerostar project. I have it. My friend removed it from his '94 shorty.... no difference! other friend have it but he has mercedes sprinter diesel engine and this pumpkin does not help at low engine speed (below 1000 RPM)....
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2004
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Thanks, well on to my next question I get a light sort of clunk sound consistent with suspension movement on the rear end and I was thinking it was the one of the rear upper arm bushings but maybe this is causing it?
As always Thanks
As always Thanks
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,818
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Can also be slightly loose shock bolt. If noise only on take off or sudden de-acceleration, problem likely in rear suspension or universal joints.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...end-clunk.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...end-clunk.html
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2004
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So I read the links and that seems like exactly my problem(spare tire clucking sound) I'm going to do rear shocks and try to repalce this bushing.Are there any special tips I need to remove the arm. Should i leave it with weight or jack it up by the frame?
Thanks
Thanks
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2001
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While I have not had the pleasure of replacing the arm, I would venture a guess that raising the rear end in a manner that would maintain a "neutral" position (i.e. same as normally parked) would make it easier to remove the parts. I would think allowing the rear axle to 'hang' unsupported would produce more torque/binding on the arm and associated bushings.
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From: SoCal
You should check to be sure that the upper bushings are actually worn before you start this.
First, have the car parked on a level surface, and measure the distance between some point on the lower control arm and some point on the frame rail. You need to set the ride hight to this distance after you replace any bushings but before tightening them up.
Then jack up the rear end and suport it by the frame (at a suitably reinforced point, not at the body seam) and remove the rear shocks and springs. This will let you easily move the rear axle up and down with a floor jack to find the point of least bind on the bushings. You can also shift the axle slightly from side to side when you're trying to remove the upper arm. Be careful not to let the rear axle hang too low, that it stresses the brake hose.
Note that once you remove the upper arm, the axle is free to move about in almost every direction. So you want to secure it to your floor jack somehow so it doesn't roll off.
First, have the car parked on a level surface, and measure the distance between some point on the lower control arm and some point on the frame rail. You need to set the ride hight to this distance after you replace any bushings but before tightening them up.
Then jack up the rear end and suport it by the frame (at a suitably reinforced point, not at the body seam) and remove the rear shocks and springs. This will let you easily move the rear axle up and down with a floor jack to find the point of least bind on the bushings. You can also shift the axle slightly from side to side when you're trying to remove the upper arm. Be careful not to let the rear axle hang too low, that it stresses the brake hose.
Note that once you remove the upper arm, the axle is free to move about in almost every direction. So you want to secure it to your floor jack somehow so it doesn't roll off.