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The one spot i already found was at the the valve cover driver side next to the turbo, was melted together right at the plug, i fixed it how you were saying.
The problem is finding the bad spot unless theres a trick to it tjbeggs
if it were melted then you wouldnt have white smoke. white smoke means you are getting fuel. the melted wires show up quite obviously, when they melt, they melt. may want to pop the valve covers off to check the wiring under there too.
Not IPR, It wouldnt run at all if it was bad and you dont want to thrrow 300 or so at it when it could be something as simple as a bad lift pump. Like everyone has said, get it scanned and bring the codes here.
you can try to use a different gauge to get fuel pressure. that would be cheaper than towing it to get codes scanned at this point. if you have good fuel pressure while running then you would narrow your potential problems down alot.
assuming you test the fuel pressure and it is good my next place to check would be ipr o-rings. first you remove that tin 3/4 nut, then slide the spacer off and the cylinder that has the 2 wire plug off. next you have to cuss and scream at the ipr as you try to wedge a 15/16 wrench in there to unscrew it from the high pressure oil pump. (occasionally stopping for a cold beer helps) once you get it popped loose it will unthread by hand. remove it and inspect the round o-ring. it may be split. do not lose the square cut ring- it is supposed to be split. once you've checked that out and if the o-ring is ok then you will really be left with no choice but to tow it and get some codes pulled and self tests performed with live PID data
it will read just fine, the warming is to tell you that the diesel can damage the rubber seals inside the unit after time but for what yo uneed to do it will work ok,
I changed the oil last evening, and now it starts right up without giving it fuel.
But...still running like crap, little pwoer and a little white smoke???
You might try opening the fuel canister drain while the engine is running and attempt to catch the fuel in another container to give an indication of your fuel pump health. I have a piece of rubber hose connected to the bottom end of the drain tubing so I can stick it into a milk jug when I occasionally drain some to check for water.
It should be 70psi. So check your lines first, a guy on here last week had a problem where his feed line was kinked, spliced in a piece and voila he's back on the road.
But I'm sticking with my original assumption of a bad lift pump.
It should be 70psi. So check your lines first, a guy on here last week had a problem where his feed line was kinked, spliced in a piece and voila he's back on the road.
But I'm sticking with my original assumption of a bad lift pump.
would one go bad that quick Kevin?
Also Kevin, when it died it wouldnt start back up for over a day and now it starts right up again.
Dont know if that helps with anything.
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