Removing that stuck gasket
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Seattle
Removing that stuck gasket
Probably one of those perenial questions that never goes away - but seems like nothing ever addresses it completely.
I'm working on a cylinder head that is soft aluminum (Not my Ranger - the Vulcan 3.0 on that is bulletproof) but anyway I'm trying to replace the head gasket and for the life of me can't find a way to do it that doesn't gouge the heck out of the material.
I've tried scrapers and razor blades - too risky and the gasket is as hard as iron. I've used the Permatex remover and frankly the only thing it removes is my skin - the gasket shrugged it off with nary a scratch. Another individual mentioned the 3M Roloc discs (the white one for aluminum) but I haven't seen those in the stores. It's not like I'm removing some off-the wall gasket, so far as I can tell it's a normal fiber gasket - it's been on for 40 years though.
Surely there is a better way to remove large sections of gasket material? I guess there's alway the machine shop and the hot tank - but that's a ton of money.
Another person mentioned WD-40 and brake cleaner
I'm working on a cylinder head that is soft aluminum (Not my Ranger - the Vulcan 3.0 on that is bulletproof) but anyway I'm trying to replace the head gasket and for the life of me can't find a way to do it that doesn't gouge the heck out of the material.
I've tried scrapers and razor blades - too risky and the gasket is as hard as iron. I've used the Permatex remover and frankly the only thing it removes is my skin - the gasket shrugged it off with nary a scratch. Another individual mentioned the 3M Roloc discs (the white one for aluminum) but I haven't seen those in the stores. It's not like I'm removing some off-the wall gasket, so far as I can tell it's a normal fiber gasket - it's been on for 40 years though.
Surely there is a better way to remove large sections of gasket material? I guess there's alway the machine shop and the hot tank - but that's a ton of money.
Another person mentioned WD-40 and brake cleaner
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
I ran into this problem on my Bronco's 351w. Gasket scrapers were a cruel joke. I ended up using a wire wheel on an electric drill. I used the smallest wheel I could find for getting it all out. I stuffed shop towels into the intake openings in the head to keep material out of the intake ports. When I was done I shop-vac'd the dust out of the holes and pulled the shop towel out.
Good luck - it was the hardest part of the job.
Good luck - it was the hardest part of the job.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Renton, WA
With most hot tanks the chemicals will disolve aluminum. (And titanium, learned that the hard way)
There is a real good gasket remover chemical in a spray can. BG products BG Company sells a real good gasket remover it seems to be marketed to people removing gaskets from holley carbs. I have used it for that and it works great, better have some fresh air though. If you have a local speed shop or carb shop I get they got some in stock. With this route a wire brush works great.
But if the gasket is thick and hard, I see no other great option.
There is a tool I've seen and heard good things but haven't tried yet. It's an air tool that vibrates little pins, and is designed to remove gaskets.
How about a big draw knife, just thinking out loud there.
There is a real good gasket remover chemical in a spray can. BG products BG Company sells a real good gasket remover it seems to be marketed to people removing gaskets from holley carbs. I have used it for that and it works great, better have some fresh air though. If you have a local speed shop or carb shop I get they got some in stock. With this route a wire brush works great.
But if the gasket is thick and hard, I see no other great option.
There is a tool I've seen and heard good things but haven't tried yet. It's an air tool that vibrates little pins, and is designed to remove gaskets.
How about a big draw knife, just thinking out loud there.
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From: Seattle
Yikes, I didn't realize a hot tank would/could remove aluminum - I thought it was just for organic material. Glad I didn't go that route.
I did get myself something like a spud/draw knife I'll see how that does it. I'm not the most patient person in the world, so perhaps this will have to be my lesson in waiting. One ding in that head and that's all she wrote. Slow shaving might have to be how it goes.
I'll continue to whack away at it with the chemicals, I have a bunch of lacquer thinnner in the cabinet - I can give that a try too.
Everyone talks raves about the Permatex gasket remover, like it's the second coming or something. So far I'm just not impressed - in fact the stuff is a positive hazard. I must have used half a can on that head, let it soak for 30 minutes - barely took the top layer off the gasket.
I did get myself something like a spud/draw knife I'll see how that does it. I'm not the most patient person in the world, so perhaps this will have to be my lesson in waiting. One ding in that head and that's all she wrote. Slow shaving might have to be how it goes.
I'll continue to whack away at it with the chemicals, I have a bunch of lacquer thinnner in the cabinet - I can give that a try too.
Everyone talks raves about the Permatex gasket remover, like it's the second coming or something. So far I'm just not impressed - in fact the stuff is a positive hazard. I must have used half a can on that head, let it soak for 30 minutes - barely took the top layer off the gasket.
Temporarily Deactivated
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: North Carolina
I dont really know but an old school trick to cleaning gunked up paint and stuff from an aluminum boat is EASY OFF OVEN CLEANER.You let it soak in and it almost wipes off clean to the metal but you have to wash it off good and not spray it too heavy.
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From: Seattle
Worth a shot, I already probably damaged my DNA with that Permatex stuff - so oven cleaner can't be worse - and it does do a pretty damn good job of dissolving things.
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Fleet Mechanic
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From: Lorain County, Ohio
You can find the Roloc discs at a "real" parts store like NAPA if you have a die grinder to attach them to. They don't work really well in a regular drill. I use the more aggressive discs even on aluminum, but you have to be careful. If you've never used Rolocs, go for the white ones on aluminum.
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Joined: Mar 2001
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From: So Cal
Don't know how well it will work on Aluminum, but if you are careful, it may work...
I have had good luck removing gaskets using a Painter's Helper. These are available in the paint section of hardware stores. They look like a 3 inch wide putty knife with one pointy end, one flat end and usually a crescent cut out in the side. The main blade is sharpened at a bevel, but is not sharp as a knife. So it works very well as a scraper. They are much thicker than putty knifes and do not flex so no accidental gouges.
Mine has a chrome finish which I think helps make removing gaskets smoother since the chrome is slippery. There are also black metal versions but those rust and seem to be scratchier.
You would really have to be gouging with the chrome version to cause damage, so get one of those if you can find one. I use the flat side agains the metal with the bevel sliding under the gasket.
This is one of my more versatile tools in my tool box. My wife even steals it all the time so I have to go looking for it.
Good Luck.
Jim Henderson
I have had good luck removing gaskets using a Painter's Helper. These are available in the paint section of hardware stores. They look like a 3 inch wide putty knife with one pointy end, one flat end and usually a crescent cut out in the side. The main blade is sharpened at a bevel, but is not sharp as a knife. So it works very well as a scraper. They are much thicker than putty knifes and do not flex so no accidental gouges.
Mine has a chrome finish which I think helps make removing gaskets smoother since the chrome is slippery. There are also black metal versions but those rust and seem to be scratchier.
You would really have to be gouging with the chrome version to cause damage, so get one of those if you can find one. I use the flat side agains the metal with the bevel sliding under the gasket.
This is one of my more versatile tools in my tool box. My wife even steals it all the time so I have to go looking for it.
Good Luck.
Jim Henderson
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From: Seattle
I know EXACTLY what you're talking about. I think I've eyeballed it about 50 times when I go for paint supplies. Never bought one - actually last time I was in I was considering it but ended up going with a stiff nylon plastic scraper with a reinforced blade. The problem with plastic scrapers is that they dull too fast and chemicals eat them for lunch.
Again, for a couple bucks it might be worth a shot, I can pick it up with the oven cleaner and other types of stripping chems.
Haven't actually had time to work on it, the weather turned sour (snow expected this weekend) and I tore my rotator cuff
Again, for a couple bucks it might be worth a shot, I can pick it up with the oven cleaner and other types of stripping chems.
Haven't actually had time to work on it, the weather turned sour (snow expected this weekend) and I tore my rotator cuff
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 6,473
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From: Lafayette, IN
Don't know how well it will work on Aluminum, but if you are careful, it may work...
I have had good luck removing gaskets using a Painter's Helper. These are available in the paint section of hardware stores. They look like a 3 inch wide putty knife with one pointy end, one flat end and usually a crescent cut out in the side. The main blade is sharpened at a bevel, but is not sharp as a knife. So it works very well as a scraper. They are much thicker than putty knifes and do not flex so no accidental gouges.
Mine has a chrome finish which I think helps make removing gaskets smoother since the chrome is slippery. There are also black metal versions but those rust and seem to be scratchier.
You would really have to be gouging with the chrome version to cause damage, so get one of those if you can find one. I use the flat side agains the metal with the bevel sliding under the gasket.
This is one of my more versatile tools in my tool box. My wife even steals it all the time so I have to go looking for it.
Good Luck.
Jim Henderson
I have had good luck removing gaskets using a Painter's Helper. These are available in the paint section of hardware stores. They look like a 3 inch wide putty knife with one pointy end, one flat end and usually a crescent cut out in the side. The main blade is sharpened at a bevel, but is not sharp as a knife. So it works very well as a scraper. They are much thicker than putty knifes and do not flex so no accidental gouges.
Mine has a chrome finish which I think helps make removing gaskets smoother since the chrome is slippery. There are also black metal versions but those rust and seem to be scratchier.
You would really have to be gouging with the chrome version to cause damage, so get one of those if you can find one. I use the flat side agains the metal with the bevel sliding under the gasket.
This is one of my more versatile tools in my tool box. My wife even steals it all the time so I have to go looking for it.
Good Luck.
Jim Henderson
Personally, I just scrape gaskets off with a single-edge razor blade. If you're careful, you can feel when you have it flat to the mating surface.
Jason
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From: Seattle
Well I just wanted to follow up on this.
As far as gasket scrapers go - I think the design has lot to do with it's effectiveness. I did buy one that uses razor blades and it does work pretty good, so long as you take it nice and light. The 5 in 1 that was suggested also works well when the bulk of the gasket is removed. The nice flat WIDE and stiff blade helps keep it from digging in and allows you to span bolt holes and coolant holes without catching the edges. I killed the can of Permatex. I bought it, so I figured I might as well use it. I guess if you take it slow and don't expect instant melting of the gasket the stuff works reasonably well. I'm certainly not going to recommend the stuff to anyone, but it is getting the job done. I say getting because I haven't finished yet, I'm taking it real slow to avoid any unfortunate incidents.
All in all I found that WD-40 works just fine - mostly because it acts as a lubricant and penetrant. The lubrication keeps the blade from digging in, and the penetrant breaks the seal between the metal and the gasket.
As far as gasket scrapers go - I think the design has lot to do with it's effectiveness. I did buy one that uses razor blades and it does work pretty good, so long as you take it nice and light. The 5 in 1 that was suggested also works well when the bulk of the gasket is removed. The nice flat WIDE and stiff blade helps keep it from digging in and allows you to span bolt holes and coolant holes without catching the edges. I killed the can of Permatex. I bought it, so I figured I might as well use it. I guess if you take it slow and don't expect instant melting of the gasket the stuff works reasonably well. I'm certainly not going to recommend the stuff to anyone, but it is getting the job done. I say getting because I haven't finished yet, I'm taking it real slow to avoid any unfortunate incidents.
All in all I found that WD-40 works just fine - mostly because it acts as a lubricant and penetrant. The lubrication keeps the blade from digging in, and the penetrant breaks the seal between the metal and the gasket.
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