Hey guys,
I am stuck as a duck.
I got a wheel brush on a drill and took no rust off at all. Took surface but nothing still pretty pitted and stuff.
Should I get a twisted wire brush on a grinder now?
Is there acid/chemical stuff that would get into the rust and kinda melt it so you can scrap it off?
I need some help.
I am stuck..
Chris

 

No kind of miricle acid that removes rust. Best thing to do is sand blast it. Then paint frame with a product like POR15. If you cant sand blast it, I would use a grinder with an abrasive wheel to remove the heavier rust. A twisted wire cup brush will be better than the wire wheel, but still wont remove the heavy rust. Either that or if you have access to air, use a needle scaler (you can get them cheap at Harbour freight).

 

Hey, I was reading something about oshpo acid and miradic acid?

 

Another question how much grinder should I be worryed about till I should just replace a section of the frame? I am really perrianoid about taking it down 2 much and weaking the frame.

 

Can you supply a picture of the worst section of frame? I have had good luck with a grinder and a while wheel to take off the scale and loose stuff, followed up by brushed on rustoleum.
I don't live in a rust prone area anymore, so this is fine, but if your area is pretty bad for rust, then maybe consider my first step followed by something like naval jelly or Metal Ready. I have used (and had good luck with) naval jelly, but have no personal experience with Metal Ready. From what I have seen, the Metal Ready is good stuff.

 

If you can please post a pic of the area in question. As far as how much metal you can take away without comprimising strength, it all depends on what you are doing with the vehicle that the frame is under. If its just rock crawling, off roading, racing you can take more than if it was going to be used as a daily driver or hauler. My opinion of any kind of acid is to stay away from them. Once you use them, you have to neutralize them 100%. Or it will continue to eat the metal. As for the naval jelly, I tried it years ago and dislike the product. I can get better and faster results sandblasting, grinding or needle scaling. Metal ready from POR is just a etching agent for new metal or to "neutralize" rust. If you sand blast, scale or grind the paint there is no need for this product. I sand blasted a few frames, used 3 coats of POR15 and let them dry. One frame sat outside in weather for 4 months and nothing happened to it. I took a piece of metal, painted with POR15 and beat on it with a hammer after it dried, and it didnt do anything.

 

Before I would use a abrasive wheel on a grinder, I would try a flap disk on a grinder. I have the same problem on my frame. The flap disk even at a 60 grit is easier to control the amount of material your removing. I'm in the process of blasting my frame now and it's not helping with the pitting much. Blasting is great for getting rid of the rust but I'm going to try some other means to flatten the steel.

 

Hey guys,
I have a guy who will sandblast the diffs and the frame for 200 bucks. But I cant take the cab off. The gas tank is in the cab and there are no lines only brake lines. So If i pulled the box off would this be alright idea? Or should I just use the grinder?
Dunno what to do?
Cheers

 

Hey guys,
Here are the pictures of the frame what it looks at this moment.
<a href="http://s714.photobucket.com/albums/ww148/ChrisCrash12/?action=view&current=P4060203.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i714.photobucket.com/albums/ww148/ChrisCrash12/P4060203.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s714.photobucket.com/albums/ww148/ChrisCrash12/?action=view&current=P4060207.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i714.photobucket.com/albums/ww148/ChrisCrash12/P4060207.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s714.photobucket.com/albums/ww148/ChrisCrash12/?action=view&current=P4060202.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i714.photobucket.com/albums/ww148/ChrisCrash12/P4060202.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s714.photobucket.com/albums/ww148/ChrisCrash12/?action=view&current=P4060205.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i714.photobucket.com/albums/ww148/ChrisCrash12/P4060205.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
That is the rear crossmember
<a href="http://s714.photobucket.com/albums/ww148/ChrisCrash12/?action=view&current=P4060206.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i714.photobucket.com/albums/ww148/ChrisCrash12/P4060206.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
The other side.

 

So, I took a grinder to it today with a disk.
Coming out alright alot better. Starting to see new metal, but I am still really perianoid about taking to much of the frame down........ I tap it sounds like all other places like the frame so I think its just stuck in my head.
Anywho I will take some pictures after I am done today.
Cheers
any more ideas would be great.
Cheers

 

Where your rear cross member is, I would cut off the rivets, remove the cross member, remove the rust, check the frame, paint everything, then reattach the cross member with grade 8 7/16" bolts and lock nuts. Also check where your spring hangers are. I have seen plenty of frames that look like that, and once you remove the cross member or the spring hanger, you can usually sut use a hammer to remove the bulk of the rust. But then I found a few frames where the frame was almost paper thin in those areas. As for leaving the cab on to blast the rear portion, that is not a problem, just make sure everything is covered real well so you dont get grit where you dont want it.

As for the rest of the frame, it looks fine to me, just remove what rust you can and paint it with POR15. I doubt you will be removing to much metal from the rest of the frame. Like I said, remove that cross member and treat that area real good.

 

Well after lol 15 mins of sanding with a grinding disk lol this is what I got....
Lazy day..
<a href="http://s714.photobucket.com/albums/ww148/ChrisCrash12/?action=view&current=Grinding.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i714.photobucket.com/albums/ww148/ChrisCrash12/Grinding.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s714.photobucket.com/albums/ww148/ChrisCrash12/?action=view&current=grinding1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i714.photobucket.com/albums/ww148/ChrisCrash12/grinding1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Way better now I think. Did not take very long too. I dont think I took off to much frame.
But any more ideas how to get that pitted rust in there.
CHeers

 

You didnt remove that much metal to be anywhere concerned about the structural integrity of the frame. Best way to remove that rust now is either sandblast it, or use a cup style twisted wire wheel. With POR15, all you really have to do is remove large scale and loose rust, Paint Over Rust is what POR stands for. Like I said, I would be more concerned about the frame at the rear cross member and spring hangers than anywhere else. I've seen worse frames than what you got put back on the road.

 

Ya ima just do that grind down most of the rust then wire brush the pits to get that out and then get onto the rear of the truck. I will prob need to replace the shackles as you can see little holes and stuff pretty deep in them. The shackles are rivet so I will have to cut them out.
Cheers

 

I think that frame isn't that bad. Hammer away with a cup brush and slather on some POR. OH, and post up lots of pics of your progress