Need to Replace the Bed
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,971
Likes: 2
http://www.governmentauctions.org/up...uck-726371.jpg short and flat enough for ya?
haha, give me an hour or so, i might be able to find some pics somewhere of an f150 with a flatbed
haha, give me an hour or so, i might be able to find some pics somewhere of an f150 with a flatbed
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,971
Likes: 2
http://www.smithbuggiesandlivestock....%20(Small).jpg
take that back. less than an hour.
7th generation f150 with a flatbed on it.
take that back. less than an hour.
7th generation f150 with a flatbed on it.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,971
Likes: 2
http://cowpens.olx.com/1984-ford-f15...ck-iid-1877574
heres another one with more pics.
hope this is all helping
heres another one with more pics.
hope this is all helping
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,429
Likes: 4
From: patricia ab canada
the short bed is only1' 6' about shorter than the long bed.i've seen bronco's and blazers with pick up cabs on them with a short flat bed they look all right,not much use for hauling anything. here's some picks of my f250.it's not finished yet have to finish the headache rack.
it's 8' long exactly.
have build rear bumper for it as well.
was thinking of putting stacks on it,thats why the end posts are straight and not angled to the cab. it is made all of steel.3"x4"x1/4"box steel running the length of the frame,and 1"x1" ribs running across and for the headache rack.flat steel along the edge and2 1/2" pipe welded to the back.it is bolted to the frame using the original mounting holes from the old box.i made it heavy duty because i plan on mounting a fithwheel on to it in the future.i will be putting diamond plate between the bumper and at the base of the headache rack, and mounting tool boxes between the cab and wheels. hope this helps.
it's 8' long exactly.
have build rear bumper for it as well.
was thinking of putting stacks on it,thats why the end posts are straight and not angled to the cab. it is made all of steel.3"x4"x1/4"box steel running the length of the frame,and 1"x1" ribs running across and for the headache rack.flat steel along the edge and2 1/2" pipe welded to the back.it is bolted to the frame using the original mounting holes from the old box.i made it heavy duty because i plan on mounting a fithwheel on to it in the future.i will be putting diamond plate between the bumper and at the base of the headache rack, and mounting tool boxes between the cab and wheels. hope this helps.
New User
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Vabeetch
Thanks alot for those pics. I'm starting to think the flat bed won't look that bad. I'm also thinking of putting a roll bar behind my cab as well but maybe too much......then again, with the way I drive...... I'll take some pics of my truck and post them tomorrow.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 291
Likes: 3
From: Lockport, IL
IMHO find a bed. Unless you need a flat bed for hauling something, or you already have a flat bed to toss on. Otherwise it is going to cost you as much in material as it would to just go find a decent bed.
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New User
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 6
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From: Vabeetch
I have had those thoughts as well. I got scared seeing the $1000+ side panel for the bed on LMC. I have the pick 'n' pull in Virginia Beach to keep up on as well as craigs list. The PnP had nothing worth a crap for me. I've read that some here knows a little something about this particular yard. It's a 5 min drive for me. So any kind of info would be greatly appreciated.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 291
Likes: 3
From: Lockport, IL
For reference I just bought my 8' bed, that is 100% rust free with tailgate and tail lights for $400. Deals are out there, ya just gotta get lucky, or change your screen name to "Uncle Stosh".
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