How to remove body trim?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
From: North West Arkansas
How to remove body trim?
I'm trying to take the trim off to do some body work. I would like to keep it in good condition for reuse.
I tried to use a plastic putty knife and a little pressure to pry it off, but it doesn't seem to want to come off willingly.
Wondering if I'm missing something here.
Any tips would be welcome.
Mike
I tried to use a plastic putty knife and a little pressure to pry it off, but it doesn't seem to want to come off willingly.
Wondering if I'm missing something here.
Any tips would be welcome.
Mike
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 668
Likes: 3
From: NW Kans
what trim are you trying to remove? if its the dent trim, most of it has plastic spring clips that hold it. i believe the springs are on the bottom so you would have to lift up on the trim, then pull the top away from the body, then let it drop down. the ends of most pieces will have a nut inside the body panel you have to find and take off too. i think some also have a screw but that would be obvious. the racetrack trim i believe just has nuts on the inside of the body panels although i have never removed any. the wide trim along the bottom i believe is similar to the dent trim. if you have any more problems ask again.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 668
Likes: 3
From: NW Kans
do you have the trim with the rubber insert? if so, the front has a nut inside the fender. (remove marker light to access) then the plastic clips. (not made exactly like i described, but should work the same way. then a metal clip at rear of fender. dont remember exactly how it comes off but should be a able to figure it out. if the trim doesnt fall off it when you get to that point. the door has nuts on both ends (open door for access) with plastic clips in between. the cab has a phillips screw at the back, then like a christmas tree clip at the front. remove screw first then pull straight out on trim piece. should pop out of hole. the bed i believe has nuts on the ends (access from underneath or from marker hole at rear) and plastic clips in between. good luck.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
From: North West Arkansas
Yes it does.
Here is a picture:
Thank you for your help, I'll poke around tonight and see what I can see....
Mike
Here is a picture:
Thank you for your help, I'll poke around tonight and see what I can see....
Mike
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Elder User
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 211
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From: North West Arkansas
Thank You!
The body is in great shape, its got a few rust spots. Only a few on the bed rail give me some concern, but everyone that has looked at it says that its ok for now but needs to be addressed, so that's what I'm trying to do immediately. I'm going to use the tailgate to figure a few things out and then move on to the bed. Fix the rust, address a few dents and dings, then I would like to coat it and get it protected.
The drive train needs some TLC. Everything is original, 351-M (118K miles), C6 (? I think), Dana 40 (? I think). The Carb needs help, steering gear is shot, the transmission or the rear end clunks a little on shift, can't tell which one.
I have grand plan.......i'm only missing then money.....and the expertise......other than that I'm good.....
hahaha, I'm in so much trouble.....
The body is in great shape, its got a few rust spots. Only a few on the bed rail give me some concern, but everyone that has looked at it says that its ok for now but needs to be addressed, so that's what I'm trying to do immediately. I'm going to use the tailgate to figure a few things out and then move on to the bed. Fix the rust, address a few dents and dings, then I would like to coat it and get it protected.
The drive train needs some TLC. Everything is original, 351-M (118K miles), C6 (? I think), Dana 40 (? I think). The Carb needs help, steering gear is shot, the transmission or the rear end clunks a little on shift, can't tell which one.
I have grand plan.......i'm only missing then money.....and the expertise......other than that I'm good.....
hahaha, I'm in so much trouble.....
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 668
Likes: 3
From: NW Kans
if its an auto it is a c6 im sure. most had 9" rear end but there are some oddballs that had a dana 44 rear end. or could have been swapped in. steering gear should not be hard to find for a 2wd. check ujoints for clunk, much cheaper. then rearend slop. i got that money thing going on too.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 668
Likes: 3
From: NW Kans
you got the dana there buddy. a 9" has a fabricated housing with a welded on rear cover and a dropout (from the front) removeable 3rd member centersection. not sure how much work is involved to change from one to the other.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
From: North West Arkansas
That's what I thought. Glad to get confirmation. I would love to have a 9" but I don't really need it. Install an auburn limited slip into what I got and I should be fine.
BTW, I managed to successfully remove the dent trim from the bed of the truck last night. You were right. There were two bolts on the inside of body of the bed. One at the rear behind the tail lights and one halfway back, right in front of the rear tire. Once I got those two bolts off, the trim snapped right off.
BTW, I managed to successfully remove the dent trim from the bed of the truck last night. You were right. There were two bolts on the inside of body of the bed. One at the rear behind the tail lights and one halfway back, right in front of the rear tire. Once I got those two bolts off, the trim snapped right off.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 211
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From: North West Arkansas
It was my father-in-laws. It was his daily driver for a long time, but he got a new truck and the green truck sat in his yard for a couple years. I convinced him to give it to me. I drove it for a while, but the sitting time had taken its toll and it became unreliable. I've had it for 7 years. and I'm just now starting to mess with it.
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