When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm going to install ARPs and I read on the forum that the final torque is 280 Lbs-Ft. If that is true, I will need to buy a new torque wrench and I want to order it ASAP. I have not recieved the studs yet, so I don't know what the final torque value is. Would someone who has installed the studs please verify the final torque value?
B.....thanks for the info. I have a Craftsman TW that goes to 250 Lbs-Ft but it is about 10 years, been abused a little and I have never had it calibrated. I believe I'm going to get the Precision Instruments 50 - 250 Lbs-Ft wrench. I want to do this job only once and do it right.
mine were torqued to 280ft/lbs and you need to walk it up to that in the ford torque pattern. like go to 80, then 140 then 200 and then 280. walk away for a couple hours or the night and then hit em again at 280. The trouble with the 6.0psd is that you cant re-torque without lifting the cab so you really have to make sure to get this up there and evenly of course. im exaclty sure about the increase between torquwe when walking it up but i know for sure to go to 280. dont know where your from but you can call North Amaerican Diesel Peformance outta edmonton alberta ask for Craig-the number is 780-456-6429. Also i recommend an EGR delete. Liberator seems to be working nicely for me. good luck.
Spec is 245, I wouldn't go 280 because that is just pushing it closer to the yield point and then they can't be reused later. You can torque them again without pulling the cab, you just can't pull the heads off without doing it.
im not arguing with you on what spec is. but the idea is not to have to do it again and it was ford dealership that did mine. they did them twice actually and the second time they consulted with NADP in Edmonton and they build the sickest diesels out there i think. well i know they built more then one 10sec diesel. anyhow thats the low down they gave my ford mechanic. call around to perfromance shop dude. ask them what to do. we've done it on one truck. our own and they do it for a living and will you you a straight up un-bias opinion.
Spec is 245, I wouldn't go 280 because that is just pushing it closer to the yield point and then they can't be reused later. You can torque them again without pulling the cab, you just can't pull the heads off without doing it.
Yeah, C, I plan to go to 245. I have not read of anyone blowing HGs with the ARP studs. I'm not trying to build a 600HP racer. I just want the Hiliary Clinton to stay together for the next 100,000 miles.
Since I have an X, I cannot pull the cab off. Well, I can, but what a PITA that would be. I have read here before that all of the head bolts can be removed except the rear ones on the passenger side due to the HVAC box. If that is true, then I guess my options are to pull the motor (PITA) or loosen the motor mounts and transfer case mounts, jack the motor up and tilt it toward the driver side so I can get the last one or two bolts out.
Any suggestions from you guys who have changed HGs on an Excursion would be appreciated.
Since I have an X, I cannot pull the cab off. Well, I can, but what a PITA that would be. I have read here before that all of the head bolts can be removed except the rear ones on the passenger side due to the HVAC box. If that is true, then I guess my options are to pull the motor (PITA) or loosen the motor mounts and transfer case mounts, jack the motor up and tilt it toward the driver side so I can get the last one or two bolts out.
Any suggestions from you guys who have changed HGs on an Excursion would be appreciated.
DSMMH
body off is the best way to do it..it's no worse than a truck...just a little bigger..my tech had it in the air in a half a day..
now you've heard of someone that has. i had ford put them in, arps that is at 60,000km and had warped heads and blown gaskets. so the second i took steps as well as my dealership and they torqued to 280. now im not sure but maybe they went high due to the fire-rings.
now you've heard of someone that has. i had ford put them in, arps that is at 60,000km and had warped heads and blown gaskets. so the second i took steps as well as my dealership and they torqued to 280. now im not sure but maybe they went high due to the fire-rings.
Don't know if it makes a diff. but guess I/we need to read the fine print.
body off is the best way to do it..it's no worse than a truck...just a little bigger..my tech had it in the air in a half a day..
You may have convinced me to do a body off. I have access to a lift.
To remove I see 8 large body bolts, the fuel filler, the AC compressor, the steering linkage, break the brake line(s), the radiator plus unhook the necessary wire harness connectors and starter wiring. I'm sure their is other stuff to remove or disconnect but that appears to be the big stuff. Did I leave anything major out?
now you've heard of someone that has. i had ford put them in, arps that is at 60,000km and had warped heads and blown gaskets. so the second i took steps as well as my dealership and they torqued to 280. now im not sure but maybe they went high due to the fire-rings.
Fact is ARP says 245. If someone put warped heads on that let go after studs were installed that means crap. Flat heads with a flat block with ARP studs that are torqued to spec is all a man needs unless he is racing. The fire rings are made to be put through heat cycles before they are torqued to spec.If your motor was out once and not touched to re torqued the studs then it isn't to spec for fire ring gaskets.