Too much smog crap
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4
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Too much smog crap
Hi, I'm new here and was hoping someone could tell me what I need to do to get rid of all the smog crap thats messing up my fine 86 300? Do I need to replace the intake or just remove all the vaccum crap? Any help will be welcomed. Thanks to all.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
Welcome to FTE. What you're attempting is what ends up causing all sorts of problems. Why do you want to remove it anyway? I'll save you all the details, but everything is set up to work together, and removing one component without compensating with the engine's timing curve and fuel mixture becomes a painful trial-and-error process that, at best, gets you to where you were in the first place.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,021
Likes: 5
From: Almost Heaven
What he said.
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,987
Likes: 104
From: Boise, Idaho
Generally, those that remove all the emissions equipment and can successfully tune it back correctly (which is difficult since the carb is designed to run with it), gain only a couple horsepower, if any, and no real change in fuel economy.
As complex as the smog system looks, it really doesn't take a lot away from your engine. The easiest way to get your engine running at its best is to be sure all of that equipment is operating correctly.
That being said, I passed emissions with the sniffer test with a brand new cat but without a smug pump or an EGR valve. I had a really hard time getting the engine to run right though. It always bogged at idle, ran too rich at idle, too lean when driving, etc.
If you're looking to fully modify your engine, replacing the intake and exhaust manifolds and putting on a new carb like a 2bbl or 4bbl will bypass all of the emissions equipment. There's plenty of writeups on here in that regard. Just be sure you don't have emissions (and please still put a cat in your exhaust.
)
As complex as the smog system looks, it really doesn't take a lot away from your engine. The easiest way to get your engine running at its best is to be sure all of that equipment is operating correctly.
That being said, I passed emissions with the sniffer test with a brand new cat but without a smug pump or an EGR valve. I had a really hard time getting the engine to run right though. It always bogged at idle, ran too rich at idle, too lean when driving, etc.
If you're looking to fully modify your engine, replacing the intake and exhaust manifolds and putting on a new carb like a 2bbl or 4bbl will bypass all of the emissions equipment. There's plenty of writeups on here in that regard. Just be sure you don't have emissions (and please still put a cat in your exhaust.
)
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,603
Likes: 10
From: Spokane, WA
To remove stuff just to remove it rather than repair and maintain as needed is junk auto science. If all the stuff is removed than all the systems have to be re-engineered to non-emissions operation. Do your trouble shooting and repair/maintain as necessary starting with checking for vacuum leaks. The EGR is probably shot/burned out and the Cat is probably plugged or blown out.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Apr 2009
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Thanks for the responce guys. Perhaps I need to rethink my plans. I thought I would be better off without it but maby not. The smog pump is missing and several lines are pluged with old spark plugs.
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Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,603
Likes: 10
From: Spokane, WA
Then you may be better off just to finish the re-engineering. An '83 or older carb and have the dizzy recurved for a non-emissions application.
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Moderator
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,987
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From: Boise, Idaho
If you plan on sticking with the 1bbl, no. But if you want to upgrade to a 2bbl or 4bbl, you'll need a converter for the 2bbl (although it'll be very restricted), and definitely a whole new intake for a 4bbl.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 673
Likes: 0
From: Maryland
There's no re-curving an '86 TFI distributer. He will need to replace it with a DuraSpark II distributer and also add the DuraSpark II module. My '85 has all the smog crap on it and it runs fine. IMHO there is nothing to be gained unless you do everything (4V, cam, compression etc) and then it's up to you to tune it.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 370
Likes: 0
From: Diboll, Tx.
Just do the Dirt Cheap Ignition set up. It cost me less than $100 to the swap on my 84. I was able to junk the TFI distributer and keep the E Core coil. I am running a 75 model duraspark distributer, and a 78 Z28 HEI module. All of the smog system is removed from mine including cats, and it runs great while averaging 20 mpg.