Down and Forward Springs
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 140
Likes: 2
From: New Plymouth, ID
Down and Forward Springs
I'm keeping the stock suspension and I'm looking to drop the front end... Anyone install the 3" or 5" down and forward springs from MidFifty? I have a 4 link in the back with 4-6" drop and want something to match the front... Of course IFS would be the ultimate but I'd rather spend money on springs ($400) instead of complete front end ($3000)...
Bravo
Bravo
Elder User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 572
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento area
Bravo,
Don'T know exactly what your asking about here. If your asking about the ride with the down and forward springs I can tell you without hesitation that the ride is excellent. They are made by Detroit Spring Co. and are very well made. You didn`t mention what year truck you have but you will have to lengthen your drag link an inch and a quarter and I have a how to do in my gallery. Surprised others haven`t responded to this sooner. Later.
Gary
Don'T know exactly what your asking about here. If your asking about the ride with the down and forward springs I can tell you without hesitation that the ride is excellent. They are made by Detroit Spring Co. and are very well made. You didn`t mention what year truck you have but you will have to lengthen your drag link an inch and a quarter and I have a how to do in my gallery. Surprised others haven`t responded to this sooner. Later.
Gary
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 140
Likes: 2
From: New Plymouth, ID
I was asking about ride quality and just wanted to hear about others experiences... It's a '56... Now I have to decide between the 3" or 5" drop... I was contemplating the 5" drop springs then go with the 3" drop axle if that isn't low enough 
Bravo
Bravo
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,922
Likes: 9
I was looking at that option myself and just talked with the mid 50's gal a few days ago. The D&F is a 3" drop and it's the forward component that requires the extended drag link. I think I have changed my mind again and plan to have the current springs re-arched and reconditioned locally for about $75 each.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,849
Likes: 0
From: S.C.
I didn't think it dropped that much I could have just went with those and ditch the drop axle which is 3" also...
Trending Topics
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 283
Likes: 1
From: San Diego
For F-100s, I maybe mistaken, but I think the mono's are 3" and standard lowering springs are 2". From what I hear the ride quality is better with the monos.
Gary- Did you have to get extended tie-rod ends as well?
I'm refferenceing this tech article from CPP
Putting an F-100 in the Weeds Without IFS
Gary- Did you have to get extended tie-rod ends as well?
I'm refferenceing this tech article from CPP
Putting an F-100 in the Weeds Without IFS
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
The down and forward springs have an excellent ride. You need the extended drag link since the axle moves forward to better center the tires in the fender wheel arches. You will also need 1-2 sets of the axle caster shims to tilt the axle back to increase the caster angle since the lowering springs reduce the caster. If you use the stock axle or one with no more a 3" drop you will not need the extended tie rod ends.
I and others that have tried them really dislike the monoleaf springs handling and ride, and they have downfalls in their design that could be dangerous IMHO.
I and others that have tried them really dislike the monoleaf springs handling and ride, and they have downfalls in their design that could be dangerous IMHO.
Elder User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 572
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento area
53rat,
The only thing I had to do was to lengthen the drag link.
The long drag link from Mid Fifty is really built well but I did not like the looks
of it as it is a little bulky. So I made my own. I purchased the shims AXracer is talking
about, but did not have to use them. My caster and camber did not change
when I installed the down and forward springs. I highly recommend you get a front
end alignment when finished with any front end work.
I also agree with AXracer about the Monoleaf springs. Don`t know about the ride but
if one breaks your in deep dodo. Hope this helps.
Gary
The only thing I had to do was to lengthen the drag link.
The long drag link from Mid Fifty is really built well but I did not like the looks
of it as it is a little bulky. So I made my own. I purchased the shims AXracer is talking
about, but did not have to use them. My caster and camber did not change
when I installed the down and forward springs. I highly recommend you get a front
end alignment when finished with any front end work.
I also agree with AXracer about the Monoleaf springs. Don`t know about the ride but
if one breaks your in deep dodo. Hope this helps.
Gary
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 140
Likes: 2
From: New Plymouth, ID
Thanks for the info... Wasn't sure they were mono's or not... the catalog shows a stack so I was uncertain... Not sure I like the thought of having just one spring holding up the truck but then again... if the main spring breaks in a stack then you get the same outcome...
JB
JB
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
The biggest issues with monoleafs is the physics of a long flat spring. when any twisting force is applied to the axle such as hitting a bump, accellerating and especially braking, they want to take on an "S" shape, then release that shape as soon as the twisting force is released. There is no way to damp that characteristic with shocks etc. and it can produce a lot of handling issues such as bump steer. Monoleafs are also a linear rather than progressive rate spring and the majority of the flexing takes place near the ends rather than thruout due to leverage.
GM tried a tapered monoleaf on the rear of the first generation Chevy II but quickly abandoned that concept when customers complained about the rear dancing around when the brakes were applied.
GM tried a tapered monoleaf on the rear of the first generation Chevy II but quickly abandoned that concept when customers complained about the rear dancing around when the brakes were applied.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jgp1952
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
6
Apr 9, 2022 02:25 PM
Alec Blanchard
1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
3
May 12, 2016 10:25 AM
vadersfridge
1957 - 1960 F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
0
Feb 23, 2015 06:45 PM
bronco300
1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
Oct 17, 2007 12:38 AM
ROCKY1956
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
0
May 31, 2006 10:05 AM
