My 1978 Bronco project
#16
And this is my crappy photoshop job I did last night, figuring how I'm going to lay the black stripes out for the Battleship camo paint.
This is the same picture shown above, but I rotated it to get rid of the hill, pasted on a fender, and drew in a hood. I think the paint will end up looking similar to this.
There's a military style "hull number" 78 on the fender that will be made from vinyl letters. Although there was no "BB 78" as a battleship,(BB71 would have been the last battleship, a 937 foot Montana class, but it was never built) in this case "BB78" simply stands for Big Bronco '78.
This is the same picture shown above, but I rotated it to get rid of the hill, pasted on a fender, and drew in a hood. I think the paint will end up looking similar to this.
There's a military style "hull number" 78 on the fender that will be made from vinyl letters. Although there was no "BB 78" as a battleship,(BB71 would have been the last battleship, a 937 foot Montana class, but it was never built) in this case "BB78" simply stands for Big Bronco '78.
#17
I got free seats from a '93 Aerostar, and they bolted right into the stock '78 tracks. For the rear seat, I'm taking the one out of my old '83 beater Bronco because it's in nice shape. I'm also planning to relocate the rear seat mounting point to the next crossmember back, which is exactly 10". This will allow my two teenagers to ride in there without kicking me in the back like they do in the other Broncos.
My C6 transmission is over at my buddy's trans shop getting freshened up, and I have the original NP205 t-case with only 86k miles on it.
The Cummins is moved back 3.5 inches compared to the stock 400 V8, so a lot of the extra weight is nullified. I ordered a 3200 rpm gov. spring for the Cummins, along with a Denny T fuel pin. Those 2 mods and a few turns of the fuel screws, this engine should make 250 hp and 650 ft/lbs of torque. Exhaust will be straight 3", exit under the passenger door, no muffler.
Next years project will be a bigger turbo and injectors, and 4 or 5 inch exhaust. At that point, I will upgrade the rear axles to 35 spline Mosers with a detroit locker carrier and 3.00 gears. I'll also need a tighter torque converter. But for now, I'm on a budget to get this thing running.
My C6 transmission is over at my buddy's trans shop getting freshened up, and I have the original NP205 t-case with only 86k miles on it.
The Cummins is moved back 3.5 inches compared to the stock 400 V8, so a lot of the extra weight is nullified. I ordered a 3200 rpm gov. spring for the Cummins, along with a Denny T fuel pin. Those 2 mods and a few turns of the fuel screws, this engine should make 250 hp and 650 ft/lbs of torque. Exhaust will be straight 3", exit under the passenger door, no muffler.
Next years project will be a bigger turbo and injectors, and 4 or 5 inch exhaust. At that point, I will upgrade the rear axles to 35 spline Mosers with a detroit locker carrier and 3.00 gears. I'll also need a tighter torque converter. But for now, I'm on a budget to get this thing running.
#21
I'm still waiting on the parts I ordered from a Destroked dealer; A C6/E4OD CNC machined adapter plate to replace the one that they used from the factory to bolt up the Dodge 727, and a billet steel flexplate that will allow me to use the stock 4-bolt torque converter from the C6.
These two items alone were almost $1500 shipped, but the Fordcummins versions, although a bit cheaper, appear to lack the quality of Destroked parts. The Destroked stuff look like works of art, I just hope they work as good as they look.
The Destroked adapter plate moves the starter location to the other side, to match the position on the C6 bellhousing, and uses a stock 6.0L powerstroke starter, which is readily available anywhere if it fails on the road(or trail). A rebuilt 6.0 starter costs only $125. So basically, from the engine plate back, this will all look like factory Ford powerstroke stuff. I like that.
The Fordcummins method of mounting the C6 uses the stock Cummins starter, which is a lot bigger than the Ford starter, and they told me I'd need to grind some of the side off the engine block for clearance?? No thanks! Also, they don't offer a billet flexplate for the task, but instead, sell an adapter so I can use the stock Dodge flexplate(which is prone to breakage). Again, no thanks.
I did use the Fordcummins engine mounts though, they look decent, and for shifting the C6 properly, I will likely buy their vacuum transducer also. It bolts to the injector pump and varies vacuum output depending on pedal position, to mimic a gas engine.
#22
2x Move the BB78 up a litttle then find someone who knows Photoshop to get the paint right. I am not sure what you are thinking. I think I would go 2 tone std Ford Factory silver & Black. I had one years ago & loved that color combination.
Black top & bottom silver in the middle.
I think I am going to have to go with a 5speed ror my swap. little too pricey $1500 +++ for an adapter & flex plate??? lookin at saving 900 buck if I go with the 2wd 5spd. Glad I have a divorced Tcase. Now I can pick a 2wd trans to suit the 4.10 gears.
I might have to go with a 6 spd.
Black top & bottom silver in the middle.
I think I am going to have to go with a 5speed ror my swap. little too pricey $1500 +++ for an adapter & flex plate??? lookin at saving 900 buck if I go with the 2wd 5spd. Glad I have a divorced Tcase. Now I can pick a 2wd trans to suit the 4.10 gears.
I might have to go with a 6 spd.
#23
2x Move the BB78 up a litttle then find someone who knows Photoshop to get the paint right. I am not sure what you are thinking. I think I would go 2 tone std Ford Factory silver & Black. I had one years ago & loved that color combination.
Black top & bottom silver in the middle.
I think I am going to have to go with a 5speed ror my swap. little too pricey $1500 +++ for an adapter & flex plate??? lookin at saving 900 buck if I go with the 2wd 5spd. Glad I have a divorced Tcase. Now I can pick a 2wd trans to suit the 4.10 gears.
I might have to go with a 6 spd.
Black top & bottom silver in the middle.
I think I am going to have to go with a 5speed ror my swap. little too pricey $1500 +++ for an adapter & flex plate??? lookin at saving 900 buck if I go with the 2wd 5spd. Glad I have a divorced Tcase. Now I can pick a 2wd trans to suit the 4.10 gears.
I might have to go with a 6 spd.
As for the paint, I'm using battleship gray and black, and this camo layout from 1944:
#24
#25
My adapter and flexplate arrived today from Destroked.
OK, first of all, I have to mention that somebody at some point told me that a aftermarket Cummins adapter plate will break. How about.. NO WAY?
The obvious quality of Destroked parts is stunning;
Compared to their adapter plate, the stock Dodge cast aluminum plate looks like something made by a kid with some modeling clay.
Cummins meets C6 adapter:
If I was a more wealthy type, I'd buy a few of these things and decorate my wall with them. heh
And this SFI certified steel billet flexplate looks nice too. It's also the thickest flexplate I've ever used:
OK, first of all, I have to mention that somebody at some point told me that a aftermarket Cummins adapter plate will break. How about.. NO WAY?
The obvious quality of Destroked parts is stunning;
Compared to their adapter plate, the stock Dodge cast aluminum plate looks like something made by a kid with some modeling clay.
Cummins meets C6 adapter:
If I was a more wealthy type, I'd buy a few of these things and decorate my wall with them. heh
And this SFI certified steel billet flexplate looks nice too. It's also the thickest flexplate I've ever used:
#26
#30
Did they have some a little less? Can you downsize the scale?
Looks a little too large for your Bronco maybe if it was a crew cab long bed Out of scale IMHO
Get the custom paint for the insignia air brushed on it for that particular ship.
There are more on this site?
U.S. Navy Combatant Ship, Battleship BB & Cruiser CA CL Insignia