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I think you should have sent a 3/4 from the top with the hood open, that would show what makes your truck special, the diesel conversion, still, it's a nice pic.
I thought about that engine shot, but if you get close enough to see the details of the motor, you wouldn't see much of the truck, and if I stood back far enough to see the truck and some of the engine, I'd need a step ladder!
While repairing some broken tabs on the grill insert tonight, I drilled 2 new holes and mounted this Bronco Emblem, that I scavenged from the fender of a Bronco II. It only took about 15 minutes.
Awesome bronco, i have a 78 bronco myself. Like the the whole swap thing. How much was the whole cost. Maybe i can try out doing something like that. Really inspiring.
I tore apart the 9" rear, installed new wheel bearings and seals, because they had been leaking for some time. I found a broken retaining pin that's used to hold the brake shoes in place, which I replaced. I also decided to re-install the Detroit Locker carrier that I'd removed last year.
I dropped the transfer case and pulled it apart. All the bearings looked great, and I installed new seals and gaskets from JBG, so no more oil leaks from that thing. I welded 2" blocks under the lower coil spring buckets, to level the truck, and it worked out good. I had an issue with the front driveshaft, though, the extra bit of lift was causing the t-case output yoke to interfere with the end of the shaft whenever I'd go over a sharp hill or bump, and it would make a rattling sound. (I thought it was the t-case making the noise, but nope)
I had another t-case output yoke in my tool box that was much deeper, I now have an extra 3/8" of clearance between the yoke and shaft when the suspension is fully extended.
I also had been having a strange grinding/vibrating noise, that was getting worse, and I wasn't sure where it was coming from. I removed and pulled apart the rear drive shaft. I found that inside the little cv-stabilizer ball crossbar piece within the double cardan joint, one of the needle bearings was missing. I had no idea where the damn thing had gone, so I cleaned it out with spray stuff and lo and behold; the needle bearing had passed through the small hole in the bottom of that roller ball assembly. It was causing the cv-ball piece to bind up as the d-shaft turned at any angle and was the culprit behind the weird noise. I installed a new cv-stabilizer ball piece, and put everything back together. NO MORE NOISE from the driveline..
I pulled apart the front hubs and installed new u-joints in both axles, because they were in pretty bad shape.
I got on ebay 2 days ago, and bought a trac-loc carrier for my Dana 44 for $70. It was shipped earlier today, hopefully it won't need new clutches or anything. The D44 in my truck has a leaky pinion seal and the inner axle seals are seeping 90w as well. I'll replace all the seals when I install the new trac-loc carrier. SOON I will have true 4-wheel drive!
So, maybe you're wondering what prompted me to re-install the Detroit Locker and order up the trac-loc for the front?? My brother called me a couple weeks ago, because he wanted help dragging out an old 1940's service van that had been stuck in the woods for years. I know it weighed a lot more than my Bronco, because it was loaded with junk, maybe 8000 lbs? Plus at least 2 of its wheels were locked up. But I gave it a tug, and the Bronc dragged it about 10 feet through the dirt and mud. That was far enough for my brother to do what he had to do with it. But my truck barely did the job, and I was pissed off because I was spinning peg-legs front and rear, you could see the marks on the ground. Lame.
Next time I go to pull something, the Bronco will be ripping with all 4 claws.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.