need schooled on 360's
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New User
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: northeastern Indiana
need schooled on 360's
For starters I have a california emissions 76 f150 4x4 with a 360 I have been working on. When I picked it up it was all stock right down to the smog pump. So far I have removed the smog pump, egr, lines, and logs with the tubes out of the heads. I have also put on dynomax longtubes with 2.5 out of the collectors into a 3" y pipe, and then into a magnaflow muffler with single 3 in dual 2.5 out of it dumping behind the wheels. I have also cranked the initial timing up to 10. So far it runs real good and woke up well. But it runs rich at idle, if I lean it out it wants to die. What is this timming set I keep hearing about? I have a feeling this has alot to do with the problem. Its almost like Ford did something to the cam to keep the catilytic converter lit at idle for emissions. I have a old s code intake and 600 holley vacum secondaries I want to put on it. But I am wondering if I should change the cam too while it is apart. I just want good power 0-5,000 tops. I have already have a play truck thats goes like hell. Eventually i'd like to get a hold of a bigger motor for more torque. For now this one is going to have to stay awhile.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,931
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From: SW Michigan
some cheap and easy tricks
Ryan, you're right about the cam and timing. You could keep the cam you have now, but replace the chain and gears with a set for an older 390 ( pre 1970 ). When ford was playing games to meet emission standards, a new set of cam gears was made with the valve timing delayed by 4 or 6 degrees. An older set will run the cam straight up, a nice and easy improvement.
Then, look and see if your truck's engine has a thermal control valve in the vacuum line to the dizzy. Ford used this device to disable the vacuum advance until the engine was just about to overheat. Then it allows vacuum advance and things cool down. Make certain your vacuum hose hooks directly to whatever vacuum source you're using, and don't use the thermal control. I like to run direct manifold vacuum. But the most important thing is to make sure the vacuum advance is working. With the TCV, it doesn't come into play soon enough to help you. DinosaurFan
Then, look and see if your truck's engine has a thermal control valve in the vacuum line to the dizzy. Ford used this device to disable the vacuum advance until the engine was just about to overheat. Then it allows vacuum advance and things cool down. Make certain your vacuum hose hooks directly to whatever vacuum source you're using, and don't use the thermal control. I like to run direct manifold vacuum. But the most important thing is to make sure the vacuum advance is working. With the TCV, it doesn't come into play soon enough to help you. DinosaurFan
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New User
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 23
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From: northeastern Indiana
So I just need a basic adjustable timing set. And set the cam advance to 0 degrees. Does anyone have any specs on the stock cam like lsa? I have a degree wheel, but it has been a few years since I used it. Do I need to check piston to valve clearance while doing this?
I only have the pcv valve, brake booster, and distributor hooked up. I removed everything else. What a mess that was!
I only have the pcv valve, brake booster, and distributor hooked up. I removed everything else. What a mess that was!
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 360
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From: Napa
If you have the proper original carb for an s-code 390GT engine, cathedral bowls, single inlet, Ford PN, you could probably sell it for enough to buy a new 1850 600cfm with the side inlet bowls you want for a 4x4- cathedrals will tend to flood or starve on the hills
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
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From: Long Island USA
Yup, the 1972-up 360's were cam-timed for emissions with the timing set. If you look at the part numbers, even from a place like napaonline.com, you'll see the 1972-up 360 timing set is a different number than both the 390 of the same years, and all other pre-1972 FEs.
Without changing the cam, lifters, or bothering with all the other issues of valve lash and such, keep the stock cam, and just change the timing set. Get either a pre-1972 360 timing set, or a 390 timing set.
From one of our sponsors, I just looked up for the heck of it both a 1974 (like mine was) and a 1971 timing set for an F250 360:
That last number is probably the crank sprocket 
Without changing the cam, lifters, or bothering with all the other issues of valve lash and such, keep the stock cam, and just change the timing set. Get either a pre-1972 360 timing set, or a 390 timing set.
From one of our sponsors, I just looked up for the heck of it both a 1974 (like mine was) and a 1971 timing set for an F250 360:
Originally Posted by RockAuto.com
1974 360 F250:
SEALED POWER Part # KT3494SA3 {3 Pc.}
Timing Set - 3 Pc.; Incl. (1) 222-494, (1) 223-321, (1) 223-448
1971 360 F250:
SEALED POWER Part # KT3494SA1 {3 Pc.}
Timing Set - 3 Pc.; Incl. (1) 222-494, (1) 223-321, (1) 223-396
SEALED POWER Part # KT3494SA3 {3 Pc.}
Timing Set - 3 Pc.; Incl. (1) 222-494, (1) 223-321, (1) 223-448
1971 360 F250:
SEALED POWER Part # KT3494SA1 {3 Pc.}
Timing Set - 3 Pc.; Incl. (1) 222-494, (1) 223-321, (1) 223-396
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