I've read every thread I could find on here about removing the smog/emissions still have some questions.
I have removed so far:
1.) Folger's can (vac canister) & the canister next to it.
2.) tad/tab solenoids
3.) All vacuum lines associated with emissions (plugged at the manifold and capped at the throttle body point)
4.) charcoal canister
5.) Whatever that weird 3 way valve at the back of the head was & all tubing assoc. with it.
6.) Cut off my Cat conv. just behind the Y pipe and welded a Flowmaster in it's place.
7.) removed the air pump and both hoses that were hooked to it.

Now for the questions.
It starts fine, idles fine and runs great but there is sometimes bucking at low rpm. Like the engine almost stalls but then it catches itself just before dieing and bucks, then idle smooths out.

1.) should I disconnect my O2 sensor since I have no Cat conv?
2.) with all lines to the EGR disconnected, is it best to remove the EGR and make a blockoff plate and if so...
3.) what do I do about the other end of the smog pipe that goes into the head? (Hit Man X mentioned head plugs, a link would be greatly appreciated)
4.) How can I clear the check engine light?
5.) the line that runs from the gas tank to the charcoal canister, should I remove that and plug it or put a check valve on it?

1991 Ford Bronco
302 .30 over
Bassani Ceramic Coated Headers
K&N Intake
MSD 6 Offroad

 

Forgot to ask those of you that have made EGR block off plates, what material did you use? (metal, thickness etc...)
and what, if any, unforeseen problems did you have?

 

I removed everything but the EGR, and the vac can(coffee can). I have no engine light, and only once in a while, it fall on it's face and either idles back up, or dies (when I rev it).

The light should only be controled by the egr and 02 sensor. Other then engine stuff. I left on the vac line to the left valve cover too, just plugged the lines.

 

oh, BTW , u have to have the 02 sensor, or your truck will run rich, and like crap.

 

may need new o2 sensors . pull it out and clean if need be or replace. might get rid of light and dieing

 

You should start by pulling the codes and seeing why the light is coming on.

By the way, why did you feel the need to remove all of the emissions components? Seriously, the carbon canister, vacuum canister, and AIR system weren't harming anything...

 

*I left mine(vac can) cause I think that it helps vaccuum when u open up the throttle, to keep it there. The fuel vapor I left too cause it doesn't really do anything, plus i didn't feel like plugging the other fuel line that goes to it.

 

Yeah, that question was directed at madmoose. He may find that he wants that vacuum canister one day.

 

Yea, your right, he'll find out when he goes to use cruz control.

 

Cruise control has it's own canister mounted near the drivers side headlight, it still works. I removed all that stuff because 1.) It just looks neater. (I'm a "Less is more" kinda guy) and 2.) If it's not in use, why carry the extra weight and have more places for mud/dirt/water to get trapped in/under/on.

I made the blockoff plate today out of 1/8th inch stainless.
As far as the vapor tube that runs to the charcoal canister, it only took 3 minutes to take that baby off and I put a 1 way vent/check valve right at the point where it comes out of the tank.

I'm gonna be pulling the intake this weekend to get that smog pipe that attaches to the bottom of the EGR out of the way and just block the pipe where it attaches to the cross-head plumbing, but if ANYONE has a link to where I can find those head plugs that Hitman X mentioned, I'd really appreciate it.

 

You shouldn't have to remove the intake to get that pipe out of the way. Unscrew the pipe from the bottom of the EGR valve, then remove the EGR valve. Depending on your model year, that pipe will either be a 1-piece that attaches to the R exhaust manifold, or it will be a 2-piece that comes apart in the middle, leaving a few inches of the pipe sticking up.

 

Yes it's choice B. Thanks for the tip, I was able to remove it in short order. Thanks again!

BTW, does anyone live near Jackson Hole, Wyoming or within a few hours that would like to do some wheelin'? I've also got a XR650R dirt bike if anyone near this area rides. Lookin' for some off-road friends.

 

Have u ever heard of hot rodders putting in vaccuum canisters? They do it because they have a cam that keeps low vaccuum, so they need as much as possible. On our broncos, everything is basicaly controlled by vaccuum. All of your heaters controls, fuel regulator, cruse, and map sensor.

U remove the canister, I can say that u will have little problems, say, going down the freeway, and need to switch from veent to floor, it might take a while longer, or get stuck in between.

I'm just saying, i wouldn't, and I didn't. Plus it really doesn't take up any room. Plus I painted mine black, can hardly even see it.

 

Sound like you just opened yourself a can of worms....

A faulty EGR, unadjusted TPS or O2 sensor would do that....ANything could be doing it....and by removing these vital parts, you are not really improving the performance, just spitting out more emissions...

The EGR block off setup didn't really justify the time tweaking for the power gained (dyno proven)

THe air pump doesn't rob enough HP to think of doing it...

Now if you want to up some ponies, headers, electric water pump, cylinder heads, custom grind camshaft and some 1.6 ratio roller rockers would do the trick....ask me how I know...