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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 08:31 PM
  #61  
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Good evening Ken and Sean and trackspeeder
 
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 08:42 PM
  #62  
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It's a Mad Mad Mad Mad World is now playing on the AMC channel
 
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 08:46 PM
  #63  
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And I'm trying to figure out this POS Chrysler product.

I got the 3rd brake light cover off (drilled out old screw heads and got the shank out with pliers) and replaced the bulbs, but got no light still.

I got the test light out and both plugs for the lights have power. The new bulbs appear to be direct replacements for the old ones. WTF?
 
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 08:53 PM
  #64  
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Push it off a bridge and you wont have to think about it anymore...LMAO
 
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 08:55 PM
  #65  
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Maybe the brake light switch "makes" the ground leg Pete?
 
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 08:57 PM
  #66  
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You might be right Jim
 
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 09:02 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
Maybe the brake light switch "makes" the ground leg Pete?
I'm not sure I follow what you're saying. I don't know electrical worth a poo though.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 09:09 PM
  #68  
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In automotive the switch is (sometimes) After the load (bulb) so the wire into the bulb and from the bulb is always Hot with respect to ground.

In our homes the line is only Hot up to the switch, and from the switch to the load to ground is (well) switched.

One way to find out is to Ground the 'far' side of the load, if you blow the fuse then its the 'source=Batt' side of the load, if the load 'works' then you know that the path to ground has the switch in it. Unless of course there is a supply side switch which happens to be on already.

Another thought is that you might have a High Resistance Ground and or Source, i.e. when you switch on the bulb, current is flowing, but not sufficiently to enable the bulb to reach incandescence. Think of a flashlight, when it gets dim or doesn't light you smack it, well that giggles the batteries and cleans the connections between the batteries. Granted the car is 12 volt, but still loose or corroded connections are significant to the flow of current.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 09:19 PM
  #69  
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I have boating circuit breakers in various ratings just for such testing.

I remove the fuse and hooked in the circuit breaker, I have those 'connectors' too

Really pays for itself when you are down to your last good fuse.

And too, when dealing with circuits that are Maxi-Fused at a few dollars a POP!

I equipped myself with this setup when I was working on Harley's.

Well lets see if we have fixed that short, here goes nothing

What, the shop is out of that size Maxi-Fuse
 
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 09:27 PM
  #70  
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I was learning a lot about Harley's.

The seasoned H-D Tech's were discovering a lot about my suite of sweet tools.

It was a good deal I negotiated with then: "Trade tools for knowledge."

The were always wanting to borrow my stuff, and only occasionally had I need to borrow their tools which I then went out and bought to add to my collection.

In return, they didn't make me struggle and "Look it up" when I encountered something that I was unacquainted with.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 09:37 PM
  #71  
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Best wishes Pete.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 09:37 PM
  #72  
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Good night everyone.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 09:41 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by 7.3 Rocket
I'm not sure I follow what you're saying. I don't know electrical worth a poo though.
Just test from the ground part of the socket to chassis ground.
If you do have continuity then it's some other issue, but I think it's a disconnected, or bad, ground.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 09:43 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by Aerocell4x4
Good night everyone.
Good night Dave
 
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 10:21 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
Just test from the ground part of the socket to chassis ground.
If you do have continuity then it's some other issue, but I think it's a disconnected, or bad, ground.
Ok. That explains it a little better. I'm sure Dave's explanation was more technically thorough, but he might as well have been speaking Swahili.
 
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