Ok guys, I need to change out my ignition control module, with the distributor mount.

Motor: 87 injected 302

My hanyes manual says that in some models, you have to remove the distributor in order to access the module.

Does this apply to me?

Looking at it I am unsure, it looks like it's in a difficult spot to get at.

I understand the concept of changing the module, that itself seems simple. And yes, I have the dielectric grease for connecting the new one =) My parts guys also gave me the tool for the screws to get it off/on.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, and thank you in advance.

 

You might have to loosen the distributor hold down bolt and turn the distributor but I have never had to take one out to change it.
May want to mark the distributor position before turning it.

By the way why do you want to change it?

 

Tis an '87 truck, her TFI is probably on its last leg - know issue on any MPFI small block Windsor, maybe on big blocks too - heat transfer from the engine is what kills them, that's why eventually Ford came up with a remote-mounted heat sink and a looong harness between the dizzy and the sink with the TFI.

On the actual removal and reinstall of the new one - you may have to move some of the brackets around it, in my '88 Lincoln (302 engine, like yours) for instance I had to remove one of the steel braces that support the alternator. If you do have to turn the dizzy make sure you put a VISIBLE mark on both it and the engine block, so tis easier to line it up later on. Complete removal of the dizzy will likely not be necessary, just turning it so you can get to the TFI bolts is usually sufficient.

On a slightly unrelated note - when you switch the TFIs, and are ready to rotate the dizzy back to where it was initially, you may wanna grab a timing light and move the dizzy a bit so your initial timing is not 10 degrees BTDC like factory, but 12, or even 14 - you may just pick up some more low-end power and a few mpgs while you're at it. This is a know trick with Mustangs and fullsize passenger cars that use 302 engines, pretty common among Bronco drivers too, and your truck is essentially a Bronco with a fullsize bed

 

M.L.S.C - you hit the nail on the head. Runs ok when cold, but as soon as there's heat, it's done for. ** A shop confirmed it for me, but wants close to $300 bucks to do it. No thanks, I got the part for $30 bucks lol **

In the old days, Ford actually used to test them by pouring ice cold water on them, if it started again after that, they knew for sure it was bad. Like you said, known issue.

Thanks for your reply!!!!!!!

 

That sounds more like the PIP sensor is bad rather than the TFI module.
I would guess the shop was going to change the distributor and not the TFI module. The PIP sensor is inside the distributor and the distributor has to come out to change the PIP sensor anyway. Most replacement distributors also come with a TFI module already mounted on them. That way the shop fixes it no matter which one is bad.
Going that route the $300.00 does not sound that bad.

You could also buy a replacement distributor and put it in and fix it your self.

 

Well you would be guessing wrong, they were not going to change the distributor. And I am confident about what is wrong.

 

Only time will tell.

I hope you are right and good luck.

 

Wow, are you by any chance a southern girl, or a country girl, or both? But I'm with you on the TFI, as that's exactly what I experienced with the TFI in my '88 Lincoln - I like blaming it on my buddy who just hours before the TFI started acting up let my car sit in key-on-engine-off state till the battery ran down (his guilt got me a 12-pack, haha) but in reality it was just regular heat soak damage from 150k miles of driving. I got a new module, put it in, and she's been running fine for the last 2 years or so. Got a spare module from ebay too, oddly enough that one says made in USA on it, whereas the one I got from a parts store was some asian invasion job, lol But really when you put the new one in, try running the 14 degrees BTDC timing, methinks you will like it. Just remember to unplug the SPOUT connector (big black plug with two wires coming out of it, sorta looks like a MAXI fuse in a case, it's laying near the dizzy and tis part of the TFI harness) before you do that, as you don't want the ECM to mess with the advance while you're trying to adjust things.