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Im thinking of building a new engine for my truck.... the future plans include 44 inch boggers and 5.13 gears. the truck currently has a beefed up trans with a 2500 stall converter... I run this truck on and offroad both equally... i dont want some crazy race fuel burning mil... i just want somthing decent with more power than stock. anyone got some ideas on what direction to take this engine in?
im not familiar with these engines, but any build is pretty much the same. figure out what your bottom end can support, and stay within these limits. a stroker motor is going to blow your budget, but if you can have the bottom end rebuilt you should be in good shape. i've hear the 460 will handle like 600hp no problem. i would do an intake, carb, cam, have your heads redone so they flow well, or get an aluminum set. i would have your bottom end redone, heads redone, and pick your intake and cam for how you want to run it. the more rpms you run the harder it is on the motor.
goto 460Ford.com, then the engine build archive thread, then the 460 horsepower chart
it will tell ya everything you need for a build-up with hp/tq ratings for each particular build
maybe its not a 2500 stall... if it was it would rev pretty high before taking off right? and it doesnt... there is a little hesitation when it takes off but not much
yeah i have a 3500 stall on my 5.0 and it revs to like 2500 under normal/light acceleration get a tach and hold the brake and gas and see how high you can get your rpms and that's around what it stalls out to
The guy that rebuilt my 727 for my ramcharger actually suggested a lower than stock stall....not sure the exact science, but that way the motor does the work, and the tranny runs cooler.
I priced the 460 I was planning to build. If you would have posted this a week sooner I could have given you the list of parts. Stroker kits arn't all that expensive, but with 5000 being your cap, I don't suggest one.
Go buy some aluminum heads and a cam. And maybe go buy a different torque converter.
Are you planning for fuel injected or carb? When I priced mine I had to throw a bit extra on for some better injectors and such staying with the fuel injected.
Either way you take, this thing will suck up gas. They do pretty crappy for mileage with a stock 460, thats why I stopped driving my truck haha.
i got no tach in my truck so thats out.... and 5000 is just an idea usually i blow budgets into a million pieces... like if i just touch the gas it has a bit of hesitaion before taking off so im guessing that the stall isnt that high.... and im beyond caring about gas milage... the truck sits 5-6 days a week so its not really a big issue for me
A tach in one of these trucks is possibly the biggest waste of money ever. Typically I run the engine as close to valve float, or bounce it off the rev limiter and slide my left foot off of the clutch. Stuff gets to happening so fast in the truck that watching the tach is probably the last thing on my mind, and it is difficult to see anyway. Might be cool for straight line racers or having bragging rights, but as far as it being essential, they are not.
As far as this build, if you can swing it, go all out, but if there is a budget, or even a dollar amount that you have to stay within, then buy smart. Heak aluminum heads can be helpfull, but are you really going to build to this level? Perhaps this can be saved for later as an upgrade. Consider picking up a copy of the National Dragster and check out the classifieds. You will be suprised what kind of used parts that you can pick up. Heak you can obtain complete bullets on a reasonable scale should you desire. Then once you have a decent start you can modify or change the cam and other components for your specific application. Carbs can be found for pretty cheap too. This will help keep things under control, and keep some money in your pocket.
If you plan on running a stroker kit, have some caution for the low dollar kits. SOme of these look like a real deal, but they might require some additional machine work that can put you at the same dollar range of the more expensive kits. This is yet another example of quality and price. You do get what you pay for.
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