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Old Mar 24, 2009 | 08:14 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Bear 45/70
Actually the 360 was a .050 over 352 and not a destroked 390. I don't beleive it was an emissions thing, but an attempt to have more CID than the 352.
I was told that the 360 came into existence because Ford had a bunch of 352 cranks, and a lot of 4.05 bore blocks. So for a dollar and cents thing, they built the 360. The 390 came before the 360, so you could say that it is a destroked 390, or as you say, a bored 352. Both are correct.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2009 | 09:07 PM
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Well Pud, the knowledge is here at this website if you want to continue. This is where I was guided through my first timing set installation.

Enjoy
 
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Old Mar 24, 2009 | 11:32 PM
  #18  
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haha, thanks, and keep these conversatins going lol....im learning alot from it actually so dont stop
 
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 12:36 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by maxtor
I was told that the 360 came into existence because Ford had a bunch of 352 cranks, and a lot of 4.05 bore blocks. So for a dollar and cents thing, they built the 360. The 390 came before the 360, so you could say that it is a destroked 390, or as you say, a bored 352. Both are correct.
I would suspect that you are probably right. It is always about the bottom line with any corporation.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 12:47 PM
  #20  
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The 352 was around from the beginning, since the 50's. As the engine sizes grew, the casting cores were changed to accommodate the larger bore sizes. The 352 just got phased out, going to a common block with the 390. There's two really good things about a 360- one, they're usually in pretty good shape when you pull them apart, since between the pistons being down in the hole, the cam timing, etc., they didn't make enough power to wear themselves out, and two, they can very easily (and cheaply) be made into a sweet-running 390 or 410- or if you want to spend a little more, up around 445. You can make a 360 run much better with some work, but it doesn't cost that much more to graduate up
 
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 11:26 AM
  #21  
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FE's all have the same block from the 360 all the way up to 428.. the difference in the CID is all in the punch and stroke.
Have you given any thought to getting the 360 and just swapping out the rotating assembly with the 390.. that way you'd have your 390 back. You'd also then have a donor engine or another project engine.. like i said.. you can punch and stroke that block all the way up to 428CID using stock parts. a fun little side project!
as for upgrades..
Edelbrock makes a couple of good intakes look for performer 390 or perfomer RPM. swap out the old carb with something in the 600-670 CFM range, find a good cam and throw on a set of long tube headers.. stock FE truck manifolds suck.
it's not all that expensive either.. you can find decent cam and lifter sets for about 200, the headers run about 150.. the intake and the carb will be the most expensive parts at between 2-400 bucks each depending on the deal you get.
i have a 70 F-100 with a 360 so i can feel your pain... some sights that i've found VERY helpful are
LMCTruck.com and summitracing.com
 
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 12:02 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by wrench jr.
FE's all have the same block from the 360 all the way up to 428.. the difference in the CID is all in the punch and stroke.
Have you given any thought to getting the 360 and just swapping out the rotating assembly with the 390.. that way you'd have your 390 back. You'd also then have a donor engine or another project engine.. like i said.. you can punch and stroke that block all the way up to 428CID using stock parts. a fun little side project!
as for upgrades..
Edelbrock makes a couple of good intakes look for performer 390 or perfomer RPM. swap out the old carb with something in the 600-670 CFM range, find a good cam and throw on a set of long tube headers.. stock FE truck manifolds suck.
it's not all that expensive either.. you can find decent cam and lifter sets for about 200, the headers run about 150.. the intake and the carb will be the most expensive parts at between 2-400 bucks each depending on the deal you get.
i have a 70 F-100 with a 360 so i can feel your pain... some sights that i've found VERY helpful are
LMCTruck.com and summitracing.com
Not a true statement. There are several FE blocks because very few 360/390 block can be bored to the 4.13" bore of the 406/428. Just not enough meat in the cylinder walls. So they can't be the same. The external dimensions are the same on all FE block with the exception of a few cross bolted 406s and all the 427s.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 12:05 PM
  #23  
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The late 360-390 blocks are the same, but are NOT the same as a 428 block. The cylinder cores are closer together on a 428 block, and even closer on a 427 block. You might find a 390 that will safely bore to 4.13, but not very often- and you'd want to do a sonic on it. It's gets confusing when different bore blocks can have the same casting #- a Ford "thing". Many late blocks don't even have casting #'s- you're stuck with a sonic or the "drill bit test" to find out which cores it has. A lot of us will take several drill bits in our pockets to swap meets to verify the seller's claims. Basically, the wider the core spacing (bigger bore block), the smaller size drill bit will fit in between, through the freeze plug holes. There were some late "428" service blocks that were bored 391 blocks, with thicker cores, and once in a while you'll find an oddball. You're only talking about a few cubic inches, and a solid 410 with good strong cylinder walls would be much better than a 428 with thin walls. Besides not breaking, strong cylinders make more power than weak ones, just from better ring seal
 
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 12:28 PM
  #24  
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I stand corrected. guess I've done some bad research. or maybe did good research and read it wrong. that's the bore... can you still drop a 428 crank in a 390 and get the 410 even if there isn't enough meat to punch the hole? or does that too depend on the cast? I have a 1970 360 that i was thinking about playing with... i was thinking just to a 390 until i found out about the 410.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 12:49 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by wrench jr.
I stand corrected. guess I've done some bad research. or maybe did good research and read it wrong. that's the bore... can you still drop a 428 crank in a 390 and get the 410 even if there isn't enough meat to punch the hole? or does that too depend on the cast? I have a 1970 360 that i was thinking about playing with... i was thinking just to a 390 until i found out about the 410.
Yes, the 428 crank fits in all the 360/390 blocks to give you 410, but you need different pistons.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 01:07 PM
  #26  
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360/390/410 are all 4.05 bore- no need to bore it for size, only for wear. If you have a 360 pickup engine, it probably has 390 car pistons in it, down in the hole for low compression, if it's not worn, you could make a 390 by swapping rods & crank- or buy 410 pistons, and find a 3.98 crank & rods, and have a 410. 390 pickup engines will probably have 410 car pistons, you get the idea. Good deals on original 3.98 cranks are getting rare, many going for $450, so the Scat kits get pretty attractive, Barry can set you up with a 445 kit that will work in your 360 block, for a very reasonable price- and you'll still have a good thick cylinder wall. Going from a 360 to a 410 requires rods, pistons, & crank anyway, so...
Two good things about 360's, they come cheap, and didn't make enough power to wear themselves out, usually in pretty good shape. Nice if you can run them at standard, better to have a stronger cylinder wall than those last couple cubic inches
 
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Old Sep 10, 2009 | 11:06 PM
  #27  
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Bored 352 with an emissions "Time Set" and heavy duty bottom end.
Pull the time set and put a mid 60's 352 time set in and bring that cam up to speed. Rebuild the stock 2100 a 1.21 or 1.28 CFM code and fix the choke system. Also find the original cold air intake and hook up the heater tube. Clean up the exhaust manis and add a dual exhaust with 2" tubes, a H pipe, a good set of glass packs 2.5 inch then turn them backwards so they don't get too loud, then dump the tails behind the back tires at a 45 deg. Make it stainless. Switch to electronic ignition. If you picked up that motor for that cheap and you do this little bit of work the truck will out last dirt, sound bad ***, start when you need it too and run pretty damn nice to boot. Perhaps a extra 750.00 spent
My 6 pence.....
 
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