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Spindle nut torque (2WD models)

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Old Mar 22, 2009 | 11:09 PM
  #1  
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Spindle nut torque (2WD models)

I just did the brakes on my 01 2WD and repacked the wheel bearings while I was at it.

My service manual says to tighten the spindle nut 12 ft pounds or less, loosen it 1/2 turn, then tighten it as specified in the torque specs section of the manual.

The torque specs section of the manual says to tighten the nut 21 (foot or inch pounds not specified), back off 1/2 turn, then tighten 18 inch pounds.

I don't even have a torque wrench that goes that low. Are these really the correct specs?
 
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Old Mar 23, 2009 | 03:44 AM
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That is what i use. 21ft. lbs rotate the rotor setvral times in both directions retorque to 21 ft. lbs then back off 1/2 turn and re tighten to 18in lbs
 
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Old Mar 23, 2009 | 07:19 AM
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So the instructions in the manual are wrong? Don't start at 12 INCH pounds, back off, and retighten to 18 INCH pounds? Start at 21 FOOT pounds, back off, then go to 18 INCH pounds?

How do you measure 18 inch pounds? Do you have a torque wrench that goes THAT low?
 
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Old Mar 23, 2009 | 09:50 AM
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I'd say start at 21 in. lb.

21 ft. lb may start to crush your bearings.

ask anyone that doesn't go by a book and they'll tell you "0 lash"

Ideally, you want the spindle nut to hold the bearing pack together. Too tight and your bearings wear faster. WAY too tight and the bearings crush. Too loose and the bearings chatter. WAY too loose and the wheel wobbles.

18 in lb = as tight as you can get it with your fingers
 
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Old Mar 24, 2009 | 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by TexasRebel
I'd say start at 21 in. lb.

So if 18 inch pounds is as tight as I can get it w/ my finger.....what is 21 inch pounds? A slight turn of the wrench?

If I'm supposed to back it off a half turn at 21 inch pounds......what is the point? Isn't it barely tightened?
 
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Old Mar 24, 2009 | 08:00 AM
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I've always snugged the nut with an adjustable wrench (to press any grease and gravitational hangups out of the way, then backed off until the nut was just barely free (while taking care not to jar the rotor and loosen the bearing pack again). Then tighten the nut as tight as I could by hand (usually with a lint free shop towel...it's covered in grease). Fold the tab down on the spindle lock washer into the best fitting notch to keep the nut in place. The spindle lock washer is what keeps everything together, not the torque on the nut. If no tabs line up with any notches, tighten the nut as little as possible to get to where they do.
 
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Old May 26, 2009 | 02:21 PM
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Carefull with the inch and foot pounds. 12 times the difference.

Po-man method:

Inch pounds ... put a long enough cheater on your wrench and measure the spec inches from the center of the nut. Hook a fish scale exactly that distance. Turn the wrench by pulling the fish scale to the spec inch/lbs.

Foot pounds ... use a really really long cheater and think BIG fish.
 
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Old May 26, 2009 | 10:04 PM
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WAITWAITWAITWAITWAIT

I wrote that wrong in a hurry. Correction.

Po-man's torque wrench:

Measure the cheater to the in/lb spec and pull ONE POUND on the fish scale at that point.(not spec lbs noted before)

OR measure 1" from center and pull the in/lb spec. That ain't hapnin, right?

And pull perpendicular to the bar for better accuracy. (as if fish scales are accurate)

Real simple math if you don't have the right length bar or room is limited. Or if your scale is out-of-range.

Ok, I feel better now. Sorry for the faux pas.
 
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Old May 27, 2009 | 03:41 PM
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Faux pas. That's one of them fancy brands of chewing tobacco, right?
 
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Old May 27, 2009 | 03:54 PM
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HAHAHahahahahahah ....

No, no, no. My wife is French and she says it means fu'd up.
 
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