Pyro Prob
Pyro Prob
cant wait for the search function to be solved on FTE!
anyways, does it matter which manifold the prob goes into for the pyro? The manifold is the best location right?
anyways, does it matter which manifold the prob goes into for the pyro? The manifold is the best location right?
From under the truck the drivers side manifold is easy to drill and tap for the pyro probe.
The search function is ok if you click advanced search then click on search titles only. That will show you the threads with the words in the titles.
The search function is ok if you click advanced search then click on search titles only. That will show you the threads with the words in the titles.
DS manifold is easiest.
It doesn't give an accurate reading as to what temps your turbo is seeing. Not a good place for the probe IMO.
As stated, putting the probe post turbo will not give you an accurate reading on your exhaust gas temps. The idea is not to melt your cylinders. Reading the temps after they go through the turbo won't give you as accurate a reading.
Another vote for the drivers exhaust manifold. The biggest reason for the drivers side is it's a shorter reach for the wire going up into the cab. If the steering wheel was on the right side, we'd probably be telling you to go into that side manifold.
Another vote for the drivers exhaust manifold. The biggest reason for the drivers side is it's a shorter reach for the wire going up into the cab. If the steering wheel was on the right side, we'd probably be telling you to go into that side manifold.
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If you decide on going into the manifold make sure when drilling into the manifold that you get all of the metal out.These little tiny metal bits go flying into the exhaust fins and chip away Not good. Now you were told to install probe into the right side exhaust manifold right? Lets just say that there is an over fueling cylinder on opposite manifold now what? In a v-8 engine I go into the downpipe this is the dummy proof way IMO!
well its already drilled and tapped into the drivers side manifold. i took a magnet and got what i could out of there, but when i started it i heard what sounded like metal tinging around the exhaust for 30 seconds or so then it stopped. is it normal not to get all the shavings and have this happen?
Originally Posted by 05chop
Now you were told to install probe into the right side exhaust manifold right? Lets just say that there is an over fueling cylinder on opposite manifold now what? In a v-8 engine I go into the downpipe this is the dummy proof way IMO!
So why is the downpipe such a bad location? The reason is that there is no linear correlation between pre-turbo and post-turbo EGT's. If your post-turbo pyro reads 800 degrees, it means that your pre-turbo EGT's could be anywhere from 850-1300 degrees. Your pistons melt and crack at sustained temps of over 1250 for longer periods of time, such as pulling up a mountain pass. Your turbo however will live at 1600 degrees for a long long time. So measuring temps after the turbo is a worthless number, because you have no clue what your actual EGT's are.
The reason for the temp difference is how much heat the turbo is absorbing. This heat retention depends on a wide variety of factors, including RPM, boost, engine load, altitude, ambient air temp, gear, and much more.
So in short, drill and tap the driver's side manifold... don't worry about metal shavings as they'll blow harmlessly right by the turbo.... and never install a probe post-turbo as it becomes completely useless.
well its already drilled and tapped into the drivers side manifold. i took a magnet and got what i could out of there, but when i started it i heard what sounded like metal tinging around the exhaust for 30 seconds or so then it stopped. is it normal not to get all the shavings and have this happen?
Problem is 2 fold, IMO.
1. WGAS about your post turbo temp? Your impeller blades are made of steel. Your pistons are an aluminum alloy. Pistons melt BEFORE the impeller. By the time you see too high a temp in the impeller section, your piston may already have been melted to a paperweight.
2. There is a 300 degree difference, so they say. Problem is that this difference is not linear so figuring out piston temp based off adding 300 degrees to the post turbo temp is at best a SWAG.
1. WGAS about your post turbo temp? Your impeller blades are made of steel. Your pistons are an aluminum alloy. Pistons melt BEFORE the impeller. By the time you see too high a temp in the impeller section, your piston may already have been melted to a paperweight.
2. There is a 300 degree difference, so they say. Problem is that this difference is not linear so figuring out piston temp based off adding 300 degrees to the post turbo temp is at best a SWAG.











