Problem with a post turbo pyro...



This was using a 1100 EGT red line post turbo, as the man Gale Banks recomends... A post turbo pyro is worthless.

I have two pyro's, one on the right, one on the left. There the same 99.9% of the time. When there not the same, there only 25* or so off.

 

My Vote. Driver side manifold.
3-Gauge Install Pictures

 

Both sides with 2 gauges.

 

I have that... and it is 100% not nessasary.

 

well its in the drivers side manifold now. it was actually pretty easy to get to and i had an extra long drill bit that made it easier to reach the manifold. a couple questions about my EGT's
-from dead stop with WOT on accel i see it spike at 900, does this sound right? the truck is in stock programming now.
-it idles at around 300, and 400-450 around town, normal?

 

I can spike it at 1200 if I want so yes, I assume that is normal. Idle is about 300. As to around town, that sounds decent too. That means you are not doing the WOT thing.

 

Sounds great. Normal numbers for a stock tuned truck.

 

This picture shows piston material ni-resist insert is separated and looks broken off at the bottom.Looks to be what we call de-bonding or bad piston to begin with plus it shows no heat related cracks.Good idea to have dual stingers huh? Yeah some of you are right where the correct placing of the stinger goes but look what you get when someone asks whats this noise.I still will play it safe and add the numbers to the gauge as i have always done! I m thinking of selling my home and move next door to you pockets and get some verbal advice instead of all this typo stuff!

 

The reason for one in each manifold is to watch each bank. Just by seeing a difference in temps (50*F+) I can tell I am having an injector problem when it starts, not when it gets so bad I can feel it. A weak injector will show up because the egts on that side will be lower. A leaking injector on one side in most cases will make that side hotter. A small leak at one injector in the high pressure oil system will also show up a little cooler on one side.

I like to know when something is happening immediately, instead of having a problem for a while as it gets worse to a point where it starts causing major damage.

 

YouTube - 50# with water on Turbonetics BB

YouTube - 24.5k load on race setting and Turbonetics BB

Watch the EGT's on both videos...

Right and left, there the same. I have been driving around in this setup for over 70k. I have never seen over a 50* differance.

Drivers side, pre turbo... Or dont waste your money on the gauge.

 

Why is it so hard to believe that the shavings will pass right by? Of all the forums I'm a member of, there are thousands and thousands of truck owners who have drilled, tapped, and installed the probe in the manifold, and not a single person has ever damaged their turbo due to metal shavings. Not one.

So how do you know what your actual EGT's are? What do you use as a "redline"? Please answer these questions as I would really love to hear an explaination.

Huh?

 

Believe what you want pockets I wont allow any metal shavings to pass by any of my turbos unless the manifold is removed first then drilled and tapped the Correct way. I cant believe you dont get it. I have been reading pyro gauges with no problems. When I turn the fuel up on a stocker thats not designed for excessive fuel then I will show you pictures of melted pistons,scored holes,burnt up exhaust wheels,dropped valves ect. Yep been looking to buy a home(no trailers) near you what do you think?

 

That's the whole purpose of installing a pyro gauge, so that you can keep an eye on temps and not burn the engine up.

But you still didn't answer my questions about how do you know actual EGT's and what do you use for redline with an post-turbo pyro.

Denver metro in general or the town of Parker in particular?

I like Parker, it's a nice suburb town with all the conveniences right here. I think it's one of the better areas around Denver. Very quiet, no crime, and close enough to Denver and the mountains to do anything and everything.

 

I have myself installed 20-25 pyro's... Drilled and tapped and installed... Not a vacumn in site, no magnet, no grease... Drill, tap, install. Not one call back, not one issue from a pre-turbo pyro.

It is the right way to do it.

The CAST IRON from your exhaust manifold is soft... the Inocal steel on your exhaust wheel is hard and desined to see 1600+ temps without issue.

Your watching EGT's to protect your pistons, not the turbo. Why watch those temps after the turbo has sucked a % of the heat out? You have no idea what % has been removed. Again, waste of a gauge.


I cant believe you dont get it...

 

A good argument HUH? Remember how this thread got started for second! I do get it but some here are just jumping on the wagon driven by pockets.Do you ever wonder why ford doesn't install a pyro up stream from the turbo? If you a running a stock PSD installing in the downtube will work fine.If you choose to run down the track with a modified PSD. Then install where you think its best. Now someone posts that his piston had melted and caused engine failure from improper pyro location. If you took time out and looked at the outside of the turbine housing you would of know it was way to hot from wrong AFR you should be thinking now.Humm oilers more oil cooler piston! Too much fuel Did you ever wonder where those melted chunks of molten piston metal go? Your right they go slowly into the manifold then into the exhaust fins? Now for some of you this goes into metallurgy some of us know what happens to metal when you heat it up correct? This high temps will erode gaskets,manifolds,exhaust fins or chips as I call.The chips go flying into the hot side of the turbo taking away material thus slowing down turbo speed thus casing high EGTS for this you will need to install your stinger into the manifold or if its stock get your foot out of it and grab another gear. I do like a good intelligent positive argument though.