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OEM Stabilizer Removal

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Old Mar 22, 2009 | 09:35 AM
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OEM Stabilizer Removal

Having a tough time removing the cylinder end (steering bar) of the stabilizer. whats the best way?
 
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Old Mar 22, 2009 | 09:41 AM
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whats the problem???

got pics...
 
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Old Mar 22, 2009 | 09:53 AM
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It seems as the steering bar might have a pressed in pin. Removed the nut and hit the threaded end several times to pop it out but doesn't budge. Soaked it but haven't tried since. pin/bolt doesn't seem to have much rust on it. Frame (left) side was easy.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2009 | 10:38 AM
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Soak with PB Blaster
Hit with hammer
Hit with hammer (repeat as needed)

It is pressed in and requires some persuasion.

Your replacement should have all the required hardware, so no worries about harming the stubborn part.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2009 | 10:53 AM
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Not to hijack, but what do you guys recommend as a replacement on a stock height 250?
 
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Old Mar 22, 2009 | 10:54 AM
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Just went through this myslelf. I tried lifting up with a small jack to push it through the steering arm and it kept moving so I couldn't get a straight push. Ended up holding the steering arm with channel locks so I could get a hit with a stubby sledge hammer straight on the end of the bolt to punch it through. Once you get a few solid hits it will come loose, the trick is not to bend the bolt so it wont go slide out after. Could help to leave the nut on the end so you have a bigger target and also could help to lift the truck so you can get a better swing. Good luck.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2009 | 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by jsimon724
Not to hijack, but what do you guys recommend as a replacement on a stock height 250?
You can use a Rancho. Cost is about $50. Expect about 3 years out of the Rancho unit. Stock size tires and no lift should yield a longer life.

1999-2004 use #5410
2005-2007 use #5413
2008- use #5415

These kits are for truck that came with an OEM stab.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2009 | 01:26 PM
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Waltdog,
Thanks for the info. Reps to you!
 
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Old Mar 22, 2009 | 01:31 PM
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Stabilizer piston removal

On my truck (2003), the steering linkage end of the steering stabilizer is mounted to a bolt that goes through the bracket that is U-bolted to the tie rod. I think that 2005 and up is setup the same at the steering linkage end. Evidently, the steel sleeve at the end of the piston is just rusted to that bolt. You say that you have the outer end already disconnected--just swing the piston assembly downward and smack the piston rearward---it should just slide off of the bolt once the rust lets go. My original lasted 2 years--I put on a Monroe and it is still OK 4 years later.


73,



RON....KA2IIA
 
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Old Mar 22, 2009 | 04:38 PM
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my suggest is to leave it there and go aftermarket. I run a dual stabilizer by Skyjacker. Left the stock one on.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2009 | 05:22 PM
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On the 05-09s I'd recommend throwing the stock stabilizer in the trash and upgrading to a dual opposed bracket, using a nitrogen charged shock like a Bilstein or Icon.

On my stock height 07 I run the Icon dual stabilizer setup, night and day difference with it on and the stocker off.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2009 | 07:42 PM
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Thanks guys for all the advise.

I Have installed the Rough Country dual stabilizer kit which made a huge difference. I could leave the OEM unit but felt i didn't need the extra resistance or load on the steering system so i am opting to remove.

The Rough Country kit is well made and is a heavy duty system and i am very pleased with it's performance. for the complete set-up w/boots and shipping was $100

Ron,
the 05-07/08 set-up is a liitle different and they don't use the U-bolt bracket.
73's

Dave KA1QNS
 
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