Unless you have a intercooler, you will not have low egts with 15psi and the IP maxxed out. The air on the cold side gets extremely hot over 10psi and raises egts quite a bit.

 

Wait......Where is your pyro pre or post turbo?

 

When i bought it, it was about 3/16" retarded.
It was puffing white smoke pretty good on start up so I bumped up to about 3/16" adv. It just gives a little rattle on cold startup but goes away when it starts to warm up.
I think I took pics of both ways if you want to see them.

Power did get a little better and no more smoke on startup.

If I hammer the throttle in park I can get just a little initial black smoke then clears.
I just got done putting it back together after checking the fuel adjustment. i also found the kickdown lever was missing the adjustment screw so it wasn't working. The VRV was out of adjustment and I just replaced all the return lines and all the caps on the PS of the motor.
It is a little more responsive now.

You guys know how it is trying to fix all the PO crap when you buy a used vehicle.

I'll have to look and see where they mounted the pyro.
Never really looked.

I may need to throw my trailer behind it and see what I can hit on EGT's.

 

look for the pyro post turbo is 300 degrees cooler

 

Took a look today and the pyro is right at the inlet to the turbo..
Went out and made a couple wot runs up to about 75mph and didn't get over 700.

May need more of a load on it.

 

Ideally the best place for the pyro is the exahust manifold, the turbo can take the heat, but your pistons won't. IMHO the probe being right at the inlet to the turbo isn't too much different then haveing it post turbo, because there is a lot of piping to loose that heat. To be safe and not hurt the pistons i would say cylinder temps are 300degrees higher then your guage says. So that being said 950 is a good safe max for you.

 

Ya, do that or if you don't want to make swiss cheese out of your manifold, just tap the crossover 4 inches away from the flange and get a accurate reading as well.

 

Thanks.

Gives me something to shoot for as I start to replace the fuel components.
I doubt the IP has been replaced on this thing yet and it's at about 144k.
No telling if the injectors were done either.
So I may start there and see if I can get the fueling where it should be.

 

Ya, injectors will be gray if original.

 

The Gunson Timing Adapter works quite well.
Always be sure to clean paint & rust off of fuel pipe before clamping it on as it picks up the ground there for the sensor.
I had previously posted about DIY circuits to give a pulse for timing light via the factory Piezo on cyl#1 (4 for vans), but the signal is just too noisy without a bunch of filtering and processing to get a steady flash. Could done it with a Pi or Ardurino, etc, but the time wasn't worth it, so I bit the bullet and paid about $150 for the Gunson. Money well worth spent. As long as that sensor gets a 100% solid ground on the fuel line. Looked inside Gunson, and there is a bit of circuitry in there. Time, once again, kept me from reverse engineering it....