Is it this easy???


Fuel injection pump adjustment article



Lots of guys have at one time or another wanted to know how to adjust their Stanadyne DB2 fuel injection pump on an idi 6.9 or 7.3 diesel engine. It isn't really difficult to do, but I recommend not messing with the stock setting unless you have a pyrometer. It doesn't take much to overfuel a stock naturally aspirated engine, often with disastrous results.
Safety as always is important. On that note, probably the first thing one should do would be to disconnect the batteries, to ensure there is no power to the pump, or at least remove the wires so that if/when you rotate the engine, it will not start. The adjustment screw lives within the pump, but can be accessed through a little door on the passenger side of the pump. It is triangular in shape, and is held in place with 2 small bolts, and a gasket underneath to seal it. It looks like this...
..Cover plate on passenger side of injection pump..
You will want to have either a shallow dish or a bunch of rags under the pump when you remove the plate, as about a pint of diesel fuel will spill when the plate comes off. The next thing to do is to turn the engine to align the adjustment screw internally. This can be done one of two ways that I know of. 1. You must put a large socket (15/16'ths) on the bolt on the front of the crank pulley. Rotate the engine till the timing mark on the vibration damper is at about the 1 o'clock position as seen from the front of the engine. This should line up the insides of the pump so that the adjustment screw will appear in the opening behind where the cover plate was on the pump. Since the crank turns twice for each one rotation of the injection pump however, you may get the timing mark to the 1 o'clock position and still not be able to see the adjustment screw inside the pump. It would look like this. (A small dental type mirror may help to see inside the pump here because of the angles etc)...
..Opening to adjustment screw(pump out of position by 360 deg)..
If you look in and cannot see the adjustment allen screw, you must rotate the engine 360 deg. or one full rotation clockwise, till the mark again lines up at about the 1 o'clock position, and then you should be able to see the screw, and it should look like this...
..Pump adjustment screw visible through side of injection pump..
The other way to align the pump, is to take the cover off of the front of the injection pump cover housing. Inside this is the bolts that hold the injection pump timing gear onto the pump. There is also an alignment dowel. If you rotate the engine till this alignment dowel is at exactly the 12 o'clock position, then the adjustment screw will be visible through the opening behind the cover plate. Here's a pic of the opening and the dowel, but with the gear-to-pump bolts removed, and the dowel is at the 4 o'clock position instead of the 12 o'clock...
..dowel pin as seen through cover plate on front of injection pump housing, bolts removed...
Ok, now, all that is required is to get a good quality allen wrench which fits the adjustment screw(5/32) in size. The adjustment screw has locking threads, so make sure you have a good wrench, 'cause you don't want to damage this one or drop little bits of metal shavings inside your pump. To increase the fuel setting, it is generally recommended to go in small increments. Usually 60 deg. rotation, which is about the same as turning the wrench one flat, or 1/6'th of a turn. Clockwise will increase the fuel setting, counterclockwise will decrease the fuel setting. Put the cover plate back on, being careful not to overtighten the little bolts, replace the wires on the pump, and go for a run to see how it goes. Don't forget to watch that pyrometer!! Good luck with it.

http://www.members.shaw.ca/k2pilot/I...%20article.htm

 

Well, it's not the timing. It's the max fuel delivery screw. Yep, that's how you do it. But be warned, any more than 1 flat tighter on a non turboed engine will smoke like you've never seen before. On a turboed truck I usually only go 1 1/2 to 2 flats. You can try 3 if you're mad at the word, and you watch the pyro like a hawk.

 

Will I have air in the system after I adjust, and waht is a pyrometer?

 

A pyrometer is a exhaust temperature gauge. Exhaust temp is directly related to the amount of fuel injected into a diesel-more fuel=higher exhaust temps. If your adjusting pump timing-no, you will not let air into the fuel system. To adjust pump timing, you loosen the three mounting nuts holding the pump to the front cover. Find the timing mark on the cover and the pump. At 0 degrees the marks meet, twist the pump counterclockwise as viewed from the front of the engine will advance the pump timing. Do this after the engine has warmed up and the cold advance had dropped out. Too much advance and it rattles and smokes. 6-8 degrees as as much as you want. Somewhere around .030 movement.

 

If I decide to mess with this, should I start with the max fuel delivery screw or the actual pump timing? It sounds easy enough, but I've been forewarned by some reading that I should bring it in and have a shop do the timing. What about a Oxy sensor or MAP Sensor, could one of these be leading to me burning ritch and causing the white smoke? Can someone pinpoint the location of the MAP Sensor for me, my manual does not show it.

 

There's no sensors on a 90 7.3.

Are you just after more power? If so, do 'em both.

 

I re-read your post. Sounds like you're chasing a smoke issue. I wouldn't mess with the pump, you need to figure out what the smoke is. How many miles on the injection pump? Does it run OK other than the smoke?

 

I probably need ro delete the other posts, guess I was getting carried away.

Simply just tring to rid the smoke issue. You say no sensors, I got a wirinng diagram that has a MAP sensor on it. I double checked it is a diagram for a 1990 Ford F pickup Diesel w/W40D. Well later today I'm going to try and get some of those copper washers for the injector and check them by cracking each one and then replace their O-Rings and washers just to be on the safe side.

 

Those things won't cause smoke. The o-rings will just leak fuel if they go bad, and you shouldn't worry about coppers unless your going to change the injectors.

I would be looking into air getting in the fuel or changing the pump. If you are just sitting there running, stab the throttle, and let off. Does it go right down to an idle or does it stall or stumble before returning to an idle? Just a little pump test I do, if it dies the pumps worn out.

 

It doesn't die, it comes right down. I'm leaning towards air in the system to. Wondering about any sensors, like the MAP or Oxy. But I guess this truck doesn't have those. I wanna go ahead and adust the fuel delivery screw. The truck runs fine, starts right up, a little chugging or gear searching around 40-45 MPH, heard that is normal for that tranny though. Not the fastest but it runs and if I floor it, it accelerates. Not looking for a race either, just describing it.

I did notice that the smoke is less since I changed the fuel filter and oil, less thick that is.

I do have alot of crud near the rear cyl on the drivers hopefully not a blown gasket or cracked head, but I'll check it out some more.

Not losing any Oil and the coolant looks good. Both do seem contaminated.

Hmmmm. Wish the pump was easier, I'm going to call around and see how much it would cost to get it timed.

 

Okay, the pump is bad, I checked the advance for reaction and none, I also discovered a bad injector by craking each of the lines #4 I believe it was had no change, I wrote it down but the paper is outside in the truck.
I went to a local diesel shop that told me I should have bought my glow plugs from them, and talked a bit. They offered to rebuild my pump for 350-450 depends on whether or not it will need a new body, doughtful they said. Also noted was they said that they pumps back when my truck was made, had softer metal and were prone for going sooner or later.
Well I am going to shop some but have little options near by to get the pump up and running.


!!!They did say that it is easier than I read to install the pump back on. Simply mark the areas when I remove this one and line the rebuild up. I won't get the perfect timing specs that the sites and manual state but with the 125,000 miles on it I probally will never see those specs work perfectly anyhow. Any insight into removal and installation would be appreciated...

 

The pump is a little tricky to change, but it isn't too bad.

There's 3 5/16" 12 point headed bolts under the two bolt plate, just under the oil filler. Those hold the pump shaft to the drive gear. Then take the fuel supply line off the back of the pump and also the return line off the top. Loosen all the injector lines, and remove the 3 nuts and washers that hold the pump on. If you wiggle it just right you should be able to get the pump slid out of it's hole, then just take the whole thing out (lines and all). Keep trying different ways, eventually you'll find the one that lets it come out (and be thankfull it's not turboed)!

Before you take the pump to the rebuilder, remove the lines, fuel fittings, and high idle solonoid w/ bracket.

If you just do it all backwards, you should be able to get it back in. Make sure the dog in the pump drive aligns with the pin in the drive gear though. As long as nobody fools with it inbetween it will still be in good gear time.

There's a small book for ya, I'll probably think of something else as soon as I hit the submit button.

 

waiting until next week to take the pump out and have the shop rebuild it, but I had one more question.

what should the reaction of the engine be when I stick a screw drive down on the automatice advance and manually push it in and out. I have done this at idle and at sustained higher RPMs. Nothing happens

 

Check the other thread....