ok i found this on another website and was wondering if anyone has done this or knows what it dose
"heres a tip, turning the screw up inside the plate is only step 1, there is another screw on the pump to get it to smoke, that screw everyone tells you to turn up only affects how much fuel you get at peak torque and under a load, but going less than 1/4 turn will help for step 2. to get to the 2nd screw, go to the injector outlet lines where they are in a circle, in the center of that there is a fuel line going in to the pump, unscrew the line, and there is another allen screw inside there, turn that one in clockwise 1/8 to 3/16 of a turn, if you want go no more than 1/4 turn. It will smoke good now."

 

i also found a detailed set of instructions if anyone was wondering how to turn the pump up
"Lots of guys have at one time or another wanted to know how to adjust their Stanadyne DB2 fuel injection pump on an idi 6.9 or 7.3 diesel engine. It isn't really difficult to do, but I recommend not messing with the stock setting unless you have a pyrometer. It doesn't take much to overfuel a stock naturally aspirated engine, often with disastrous results.
Safety as always is important. On that note, probably the first thing one should do would be to disconnect the batteries, to ensure there is no power to the pump, or at least remove the wires so that if/when you rotate the engine, it will not start. The adjustment screw lives within the pump, but can be accessed through a little door on the passenger side of the pump. It is triangular in shape, and is held in place with 2 small bolts, and a gasket underneath to seal it. It looks like this.You will want to have either a shallow dish or a bunch of rags under the pump when you remove the plate, as about a pint of diesel fuel will spill when the plate comes off. The next thing to do is to turn the engine to align the adjustment screw internally. This can be done one of two ways that I know of. 1. You must put a large socket (15/16'ths) on the bolt on the front of the crank pulley. Rotate the engine till the timing mark on the vibration damper is at about the 1 o'clock position as seen from the front of the engine. This should line up the insides of the pump so that the adjustment screw will appear in the opening behind where the cover plate was on the pump. Since the crank turns twice for each one rotation of the injection pump however, you may get the timing mark to the 1 o'clock position and still not be able to see the adjustment screw inside the pump. It would look like this. (A small dental type mirror may help to see inside the pump here because of the angles etc)... If you look in and cannot see the adjustment allen screw, you must rotate the engine 360 deg. or one full rotation clockwise, till the mark again lines up at about the 1 o'clock position, and then you should be able to see the screw, and it should look like this. The other way to align the pump, is to take the cover off of the front of the injection pump cover housing. Inside this is the bolts that hold the injection pump timing gear onto the pump. There is also an alignment dowel. If you rotate the engine till this alignment dowel is at exactly the 12 o'clock position, then the adjustment screw will be visible through the opening behind the cover plate. Here's a pic of the opening and the dowel, but with the gear-to-pump bolts removed, and the dowel is at the 4 o'clock position instead of the 12 o'clock. Ok, now, all that is required is to get a good quality allen wrench which fits the adjustment screw(5/32) in size. The adjustment screw has locking threads, so make sure you have a good wrench, 'cause you don't want to damage this one or drop little bits of metal shavings inside your pump. To increase the fuel setting, it is generally recommended to go in small increments. Usually 60 deg. rotation, which is about the same as turning the wrench one flat, or 1/6'th of a turn. Clockwise will increase the fuel setting, counterclockwise will decrease the fuel setting. Put the cover plate back on, being careful not to overtighten the little bolts, replace the wires on the pump, and go for a run to see how it goes. Don't forget to watch that pyrometer!! Good luck with it."

 

Good posts. rep points sent.

 

stupid question, whats the max safe EGTs?

 

1250 is were the pistons start to melt if held there long enough,

 

I didn't realize there was another screw. I looked at my old pump earlier and there is. Does any one know if it actually adjust fuel or not?

 

i was wondering the same thats why i made the post so if anyone has tried or knows what it dose can you please post thanks in advance

 

The one inside the fuel inlet changes the internal pump pressure.
That affects timing as well as fuel delivery.

Higher internal pump pressure will advance timing and should be set while on a machine to check timing through the entire RPM range.

 

Thanks dave. Figured it was something i didnt want to mess with or i would have seen it before now.

 

i'm wondering if anyone has ground down the inside of the leaf spring to increase fuel and maximize pressure? or have knowledge of any other hotrod tricks to the db2. if no one has modified their pump in this manner, i will and report back. i have already been running with the internal screw tightened all the way. no smoke, 900 degrees uphill, 7.3 idi with banks turbo and on 70 percent waste motor oil, shimmed injectors, 3.08, c6. its a very strong runner but i need to see how strong!! (you know-fix it until its broke!!) i understand that the pump is capable of 6000 psi+ so lets use it. i'm no stranger to the db2- i have an eldo with a 350, a c10 with a 350, four cieras with the very rare 4.3 v6, a 82 f350, a 95 f 350 powerstroke, a 96 6.5 suburban(db4) and a non db2 passat.

 

Let us know how much it takes to break.

 

Any updates on the inlet line pump adjustment?

I picked up an 86 with the old banks kit.
it feels constipated!
i found the IP was turned the wrong way and was actually retarded. So I reset to just a little rattle when cold.

Better but still not real good.
The boost will hit 15 if I try hard. The pyro normally runs about 600-800.
Never seen it higher.
No black smoke.

Just checked the side cover adjustment and it was already maxed out.

i'm in the middle of replacing all the caps and return lines so i figured i would ask now while it's all accessible.

Something strange I did notice is driving down the highway about 70-75 it runs about 2500rpm.
If i run it about 2800 it almost seems to pickup throttle response and speed like a cylinder just started to fire. wierd....

Any thoughts? or updates to the adjustments listed here?

 

If your hitting 15psi, your max for a stock rotating assembly, no smoke means not wasted fuel. The timing may have been retarded for emissions, and also its not good to run the pump all the way maxed because you run the risk of shearing the shaft in it. Your pump will last longer if you back it off a bit

 

I understand what your saying but the motor still seems a little slow considering the 15psi of boost.
I also have an early 88 with 6.9na and the 5 speed and this one doesn't seem to be much better.

Guess i could throw another pump on it and see if it helps.
I just figured with the low EGT's that the motor is actually lean and killing the power.
So I figured i would try to turn this pump up and see if it helps before the swap.

What temps are you running on your 84 with the hypermax?
How much boost?

 

I'm only hitting 11lbs and on long hills at 24000gcw i will touch 1200, but empty i only get 1000 at wfo. Whats your timing set at? are the marks lined up? With the low egt's that could just mean you are getting the air to burn the fuel and keep the egt's down.