Would be interesting to see what your oil consumption is like now. Valve stem seals will not last the life of the engine (especially an IDI), so this is a proceedure that no one should be afraid of. The benafits on an older engine are real. Nice thing is that the valve guides do seem to last well on and IDI, so if you replace the stem seals once or twice during the service life of the engine (or when doing a head gasket job), oil consumption can be kept in check over the years.

Rings don't seem to cause much high oil consumption problems on these engines even at high miles from what I've seen. By the time the rings get that bad, the rest of the engine has probably lost performance and needs to be torn apart anyway. I know how mine used to slurp oil even though all the holes pushed over 400 PSI. When I had to rebuild it (DAMN WELLMAN GLOW PLUGS!!!) I found the seals were anything but. Crusty, brittle and many simply gone altogether.

 

Yeah, I'm thinking the amount of heat these puppies generate is what is so hard on the seals.

I'll get a GOOD look at the effects on oil consumption here real quick. I'm getting ready for a 2200 mile round trip to Moab with the camper in the bed and the Jeep hitched on behind. I'm taking a LOT of oil (8 gallons) with me - just in case - but I'm thinking (and hoping) I'm not going to need most of it...

Oh, and I forgot one thing on my list of repairs. I replaced the water pump too - so that should be good to go for a while.

 

Greetings-
Earlier you said the smoke dropped 1/4 to 1/3 less. Did you need the 8 gallons and did the valve seals take care of most of your smoke problem and oil consumption?

 

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Charlie

 

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Charlie

 

If the guides are shot enough to cause excessive smoke, the heads are in dire need of refurbishing. I would argue with David85 as well, guide wear is an issue on idi heads. My donor engine of a mere 120k had well out of spec valve guides. Most do not even put valve seals in on a rebuild in order to preserve the guides. Food for thought.

 

I will try that.

Thanks

 

I would totally agree with this.

Turns out, at least on an IDI with a turbo, you get zero smoke or oil usage from not having the valve seals in place. There's just no vacuum to suck oil down the guides.

Also, massive oil usage on an IDI is more than likely rings. You just aren't going to get *that* much burned from worn guides - combustion crud will make it up the worn guides and "clot" around it.

Blue smoke is *also* not oil usage - it's retarded timing/crummy injector syndrome.

I had an engine(pre-rebuild) that burned a quart every 100 miles or so. No smoke except black at WOT.

 

okay I pulled the first Springs off and I noticed the intake has the rubber Fel-Pro type and the exhaust had none. Both valve spring retainers had a small nylon umbrella snapped into it. The new kit that I have has the Rubber felpro seal for the intake and a gigantic / long nylon umbrella. My Chilton manual indicates that the intake nylon oil bushing / umbrella is to snap into the spring retainer of the intake valve above the new seal.
The new umbrella for my Kit will snap into the retainer but it's impossible to get on the valve stem. But the exhaust umbrella will slide down to the guide if it's not snapped into the retainer.
so the real question is does the exhaust Umbrella Just float on the stem over top of the guide with the oil bushing snapped into the retainer or does the new umbrella snap into the spring retainer and I just need to put a little elbow grease into pushing it over top of the valve stem?
Edit: The old intake was not all that pliable. My chiltons manual says that the intake nylon bushing must snap into the retainer otherwise it'll float on the valve stem and cause excessive oil consumption. That's why I'm thinking the new umbrella for the exhaust must snap into the spring retainer
Does the nylon exhaust umbrella snap into the valve spring retainer or does it just float on the guide.

Thanks

 

I think it might?

Darned if I know - like I said, I'd just eliminate them. I'd rather a slight bit of oil usage than worn guides.
And if your timing is right, you'll just burn any oil that /does/ get through it.

 

Thanks Macrob. They do snap in and are a bear to get on the stem.

 

I got them all changed out. The driver side seems more difficult then the passenger side. The driver's side exhaust closest to the firewall was a bear. The rear cylinderd on the passenger side was aalso a bear due to the evaporator. I ended up lowering the valves somewhat into the cylinder to ease installation of the spring and the spring compressor which I modified.

 

This project was intended to check the condition of the retainers, keepers, & rocker arms, and change the seals while I am there. I did snap the umbrella in and it was a bear to get on the stem, especially for those cylinders closest to the firewall. Visually, my valve stems and guides did not seem to have any wear, but I did not measure the movement since I have seen far worse on gassers that still ran well. All of my pushrods were fine. Anyway, I am curious to see if the umbrellas work. The rubber seals I removed were less pliable and would not hold the stem up but the new seals would hold the stem. Other than what was previously stated earlier in this and other threads about stem wear, for a truck of this age, I do not see why one cannot use a rubber seal on the exhaust Since the guide is identical. My project took about 45 mins per cylinder, with an axception for the drivers rear and the two cylinders closest to the evaporator. It would have taken less time if I did not remove the springs and retainers for inspection. Removal of the glow plugs is advisable to aid in the ease of spinning the engine.
On the pass rear cylinder, I lowered the exhaust valve into the cylinder some distance to aid in alignment of the spring/tool. This was especially necessary for the approach of the retainer with the new umbrella.

 

I don't get why you'd /want/ to, though? The guides need *some* lubrication - either it has it tight(with a partial-seal seal), or it'll wear until enough exhaust goes up the guide that it destroys the seals, and *then* it will get the lubrication... and some oil usage due to the now large clearances involved.
...As well as black crud coating the valves from exhaust soot and such coming up.