Wow, to say that engine was thrashed is putting it mildly. You're probably lucky it didn't damage your rebuilt heads. Good job on finding a good price on a long block and best of luck putting it all back together. I still miss my Y-block.

 

Thanks - I got my new short block yesterday - 2 weeks from the day I ordered it. As far as I can tell, it all looks good so far, came with a new oil pump and FULL gasket set ($1707 shipped, which included decking the block).

It's like a giant peice of jewelry sitting in my basement right now!

I should have it together this weekend and hpefully sitting in the truck and running by next weekend. I'll post an update. Hopefully it runs as good as it looks!

 

You need to do a cylinder leak down test on that cylinder, except you don't even need the gauge for your purposes. You can get a hose and fitting that will screw in the spark plug hole to allow you to apply compressed air. Do so with piston at top and both valves closed.

Once air is applied LISTEN for where it is leaking from. If you hear it from the crankcase breather, it's a piston/ring/cylinder problem. If from the tailpipe an exhaust valve and if through the carburetor an intake valve.

Do this to get an idea of the problem before doing exploratory surgery.

 

Um... I'm assuming you didn't see the pictures of the broken rod??

 

No I didn't. I skipped to the end and posted after reading the first page.

Maybe the rod explains it.

 

I think the ultimate root cause was too much timing, which caused the piston skirt to break, and then the rod. My harmonic balancer had slipped and I was just guessing at the timing. To make it worse, while I was guessing at the timing, I was running premium fuel, so I couldn't hear any pinging.

Pretty expensive mistake...But she was going to need a re-build one of these days anyway.