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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

throttle linkage

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Old Mar 8, 2009 | 08:17 PM
  #1  
GreenDinosaur's Avatar
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throttle linkage

I'm working on a 1970 f-100 with a 360 2v, the original throttle linkage from the gas pedal to the part that mounts to the intake is seriously worn out to the point that when I put new clips on, they just bend and eventually fail. Not to metion it causes the gas pedal to bind up. My questions are: Are replacement parts available? Is anyone parting out a truck with the same type of linkage? Is there someone making a suitable aftermarket throttle linkage for these trucks? Will a throttle rod from a dentside work on a bumpside? I am even thinking of removing the whole contraption that is on it and making my own throttle rod to go from the gas pedal to the carb. Any help or suggestions would be super.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 08:22 AM
  #2  
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Ditch it all and put a straight rod on it. Been there, done that to all my bumps. Simple and effective.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 01:37 PM
  #3  
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Alvin in AZ
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From: Gadsden Purchase
Originally Posted by GreenDinosaur
...original throttle linkage from the gas pedal to the part that mounts
to the intake...
Can you please post some pictures? :)
(gallery pictures suck, they are re-sampled to reduce the storage space used
and so are pixelated to beat hell YMMV?)

http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/throttle1.jpg
Shows where I replaced the original (soft!) ball stud with an Allen head screw.
The hole in the throttle rod is simply drilled... so a cylinder shape is actually
better than the ball shape anyway. :)

http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/throttle.jpg
Can't remember which holes I tapped and and which holes I didn't tap (if any)
but the trick is to double nut everything and not use any washers especially
them sorry-*** split ring washers.

The brass fillister head machine screw with the spring on it was my way of
"improving" that spring's connection to the plate, originally it went through a
hole in the plate and was a pain to remove and just didn't like the looks of it
either. ;)

Don't know about any other vehicles other than mine. :/
My '75 came with two springs on the carburetor's throttle crank.

Alvin the tinkering fool in AZ
ps- I believe all those holes are tapped with the thread of the screw-used,
so effectively "double nutted" see? :)
 
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 01:45 PM
  #4  
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Alvin in AZ
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From: Gadsden Purchase
Originally Posted by Freightrain
Ditch it all and put a straight rod on it.
Been there, done that to all my bumps.
Simple and effective.
Cool! :)
Did you use after market Heim joints by any chance? :)
BTDT on dune buggies but haven't had to resort to those yet
on my pickup. Will tho, as soon as the situation warrants it! :)

Alvin in AZ
 
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 02:12 PM
  #5  
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The bigest reason ford used that apparattus is to make your hair fall out. Like Freightrain said, ditch it and go with a straight rod. After owning a few this will come as common knoledge.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 10:36 AM
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Alvin,

Yes, small heim ends(1/4-20 size-or smaller) and short threaded rod. It's a no-brainer and makes it all work soooooo nice. That freak'n Rube Goldberg set up they have has NO value whatsoever.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 03:10 PM
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Ok, so can I use a straight rod from a dentside? or am I goin to have to get creative and make my own? parts trucks are kind of scarce in my neck of the woods, if anyone can point me in the right direction it would be great. Yeah I figured they only put that contrapion on there to make your hair fall out, I think it's working.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 01:17 AM
  #8  
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From: hinckley ohio
I used one from a 77 on my 68
 
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 06:15 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by GreenDinosaur
I'm working on a 1970 f-100 with a 360 2v, the original throttle linkage from the gas pedal to the part = BELLCRANK that mounts to the intake is seriously worn out to the point that when I put new clips on, they just bend and eventually fail.
Not to mention it causes the gas pedal to bind up. My questions are: Are replacement parts available? YES.
You did not mention if you need the bellcrank or not. I'd be very surprised if you don't, because this, IMO....is where the real problem lies.

There are non replaceable bushings in the bellcrank. When they wear, the problems begin. I sold a carload of these bellcranks for decades.

There are TWO different bellcranks:

With a manual trans: (DOTZ7A185A) / Obsolete

GREEN SALES CO. has FIVE.

MILLER OBSOLETE PARTS has ONE.

JST AUTOMOTIVE in Lebanon TN has ONE: 615-443-3086.

LARRY ALLEN FORD in Parson KS has ONE = 620-421-0100.
--------------------------------------------------------
Or with an auto trans: DOTZ7A185B. / Obsolete

GREEN SALES has ONE.

MILLER OBSOLETE PARTS has ONE.

MATLOCK FORD-MERCURY in Franklin IN has ONE (No phone # listed)

PERRY PITRE FORD in Eunice LA has ONE (No phone # listed)
------------------------------------------------------------
There are TWO different accelerator rods....

....That attach to the gas pedal, then to the bellcrank: One inner and one outer.

The outer accelerator rod clips to the center of the gas pedal, clips to the drivers side of the bellcrank.

The inner stabilizer rod clips to the top of the gas pedal, clips to the passenger side of the bellcrank.

While both rods are obsolete, I found quite a few NOS (new old stock) originals.

DOTZ9A702A .. Rod, Accelerator Pedal to Bellcrank / Obsolete

GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has FOUR = 800-543-4959.

WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS in Liberty KY has FOUR = 606-787-5293.

ED BENNETT FORD PARTS in Lebanon PA has TWO = 717-272-8762.

MILLER OBSOLETE PARTS in Binghamton NY has ONE = 800-546-7278.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
DOTZ9D702A .. Stabilizer Rod, Accelerator Pedal to Bellcrank / Obsolete

GREEN SALES has TWO.

WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS has THREE.

ED BENNETT FORD PARTS has TWO.

MILLER OBSOLETE PARTS has ONE.

Since you can buy the original genuine Ford parts, why Mickey Mouse something that will need to be modified to fit correctly?
 
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 07:52 AM
  #10  
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Remove all the stock linkage, have the pedal pushed down against the floor(like it would be for WOT), then hold the carb at WOT and measure the distance between the two holes in the arms. Go to hardware store and get some threaded rod and two ball ends and make it up to fit that distance. Now you'll know that it gets WOT when you put the pedal down.

In a pinch, use a piece of coathanger(good thick one), with a bend in each end to make up a mock rod. This will give you something to work off of.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 11:48 AM
  #11  
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If the old bellcrank remains with your modification, the problem will still exist, because it's not the rod(s) that are causing the problem, it's the bellcrank itself.

See post #9.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 02:51 PM
  #12  
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Nope, ditch ALL the mechanical-monkey-motion-mayhem. Simple straight rod from gas pedal arm to carb.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 02:57 PM
  #13  
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The bellcrank is definitely wore out and floppy, the holes are all out of shape. As far as the accelerator rod goes the only part of it that is wore out is the screw on adjuster that goes into the bellcrank. Since nos parts are available, I may just go with those. I think I'll even use freightrain's idea and make a direct rod for back-up. I really appreciate eveyones help and suggestions, Numberdummy, you are an asset to this site. I think I owe you a six pack For all your help
 
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 03:02 PM
  #14  
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Freightrain, would the ball ends at the hardware store come with both parts, i.e ball and socket? did you find them at lowes or home depot? Also I like your signature delete option
 
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 04:27 PM
  #15  
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Just curious numberdummy, would the gas pedal rod include the adjustable part that screws on?
 
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