oil pressure issue
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Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 25
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From: Goldsmith, IN
im trying to put the 89s in, but they seem pretty tight, and i cant get them in as far as they need to be. should i tap them in or lightly grind the jet? are they supposed to be really snug?
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 10,410
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From: Plankinton, SD
definitely make sure they are tight. You don't want anything floating around in your valvetrain. I've never used a jet but have done the same kind of thing before. If you have to grind them don't grind too much
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 118
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From: Colorado
I would still verify pressure with a mechanical gauge. Autometer is probably the best name as far as gauges are concerned. When I installed my new 460 in my 77 F250, I invested in a triple gauge set (temp, oil press and volts) cheap insurance.
Certified Thread Hijacker
Joined: Aug 2001
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The jets should just drop in with iron heads.
As for "floating" around.. impossible... the head bolt keeps the jet in the oil passage and the rocker shaft keeps the jet there as well. The jet has nowhere to go.
Josh
As for "floating" around.. impossible... the head bolt keeps the jet in the oil passage and the rocker shaft keeps the jet there as well. The jet has nowhere to go.
Josh
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Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Goldsmith, IN
mechanical gauge has been installed.
60-65psi on startup.
40psi (+/- about 2psi) while driving at a constant speed at around 3000rpm
5-10psi at idle when hot
from everything ive read, that is consistent with a good FE that has a high-volume pump and no restrictors.
fyi, i figured it out. i basically pushed them in with a screwdriver. i rotated them while pressing. actually went in pretty easily.
60-65psi on startup.
40psi (+/- about 2psi) while driving at a constant speed at around 3000rpm
5-10psi at idle when hot
from everything ive read, that is consistent with a good FE that has a high-volume pump and no restrictors.
fyi, i figured it out. i basically pushed them in with a screwdriver. i rotated them while pressing. actually went in pretty easily.
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Joined: Aug 2001
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I would say your pressures are decent, but not great for a fresh rebuild. Was the entire engine disassembled and cleaned? Possibly an oil galley plug was left out in the process... the one behind the distributor is a pain.
For a total rebuild with an HV pump and stock bearing specs... 80-90 PSI cold, 45 cruise and 25-30 idling.
What weight of oil are you running?
Josh
For a total rebuild with an HV pump and stock bearing specs... 80-90 PSI cold, 45 cruise and 25-30 idling.
What weight of oil are you running?
Josh
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Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Goldsmith, IN
20w50 Valvoline VR1 for the high zinc content.
here are some details of my "rebuild". i removed everything except for the rotating assembly, camshaft and timing chain. the piston walls looked excellent, so i did not think it necessary to remove the rotating assembly and do a full rebuild. i thoroughly cleaned everything, including the rocker shaft assembly. then i reassembled the engine. every seal was replaced, except for the camshaft seal and the valve stem seals. rear main seal was replaced. none of the engine bearings were replaced. i kinda wish i had replaced the bearings while i was in there, but whats done is done. im not pulling that engine back out now...
***add*** when i say i cleaned everything, i mean i scraped and scrubbed for about a week straight. i went through about 10 bottles of gasket remover, carb cleaner and brake parts cleaner. i got it pretty darn clean, however, being that i didnt have an automatic pressure washer, no part was completely perfect, especially not the heads (too many crevices to clean perfectly with just a rag and a scraper). /add
here are some details of my "rebuild". i removed everything except for the rotating assembly, camshaft and timing chain. the piston walls looked excellent, so i did not think it necessary to remove the rotating assembly and do a full rebuild. i thoroughly cleaned everything, including the rocker shaft assembly. then i reassembled the engine. every seal was replaced, except for the camshaft seal and the valve stem seals. rear main seal was replaced. none of the engine bearings were replaced. i kinda wish i had replaced the bearings while i was in there, but whats done is done. im not pulling that engine back out now...
***add*** when i say i cleaned everything, i mean i scraped and scrubbed for about a week straight. i went through about 10 bottles of gasket remover, carb cleaner and brake parts cleaner. i got it pretty darn clean, however, being that i didnt have an automatic pressure washer, no part was completely perfect, especially not the heads (too many crevices to clean perfectly with just a rag and a scraper). /add
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Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 25
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From: Goldsmith, IN
someday i'll build a perfect FE. for now, though, i just want to make sure i have something that will last me a couple or three years in my worktruck. from what everyone has said, mine should be okay for quite a while, which is a relief to me.
thanks everyone for the help. i really appreciate it.
thanks everyone for the help. i really appreciate it.
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briansc99exp
1997 - 2006 Expedition & Navigator
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Jul 16, 2006 09:14 AM
