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traction bar styles

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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 02:42 AM
  #16  
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Ive ran the pro comp stage II's before on one of my gas monsters and they still had good articulation. That was with it mounted right at the leaf perch on the rear housing. then they hard mount to the frame and they come with poly bushings. That was also while running a 9" lift, a locker, and 40's. Im intending on putting another set of em on this truck. The only drawback I found was like Coon said. They were long enough about 5.5' so they caused a possible high center issue with the low angle. But they at least sat high enough on the axle to not be hit by being below the axle.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 05:56 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by RubberDuck
That's some pretty welding Jason. LOL..................I had to.
LOL, i knew someone was going to say something... and rightfully so. it looks absolutely horrendous. i honestly dont know why it looks so bad. i can tell you this though, i have not been what most people would call easy on her and it has held up fine so far!. if i ever get a chance i am going to pull it off and redo them, but they are not on my top priority list.

heck, i pulled against a dodge 3500 dually with a CM custom metal flatbed a couple of weekends ago. he had the disadvantage since we were on dirt but i still couldnt pull him. my front end got to hopping during all this and actually separated my driveshaft which i am in the process of lengthening. and it held up to that! i had NO wrap in the back.

so ya, go make fun of my globber welds but at the end of the day they are still holding strong!

-cutts-
 
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 12:52 PM
  #18  
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does anyone remember that guy that had that website of the PSD he re-finished everything on? i know he did a write up on TSC traction bars that looked pretty nice.
Mitch
 
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Old Apr 6, 2009 | 05:13 PM
  #19  
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what do you guy use to weld the brackets to the axle, ampreage? Im thinking about greaseable poly bushings on both ends at the exact angle as the driveshaft.

79f-250custom: are thinking of dzljim?
 
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 10:39 AM
  #20  
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Is 1.5" dia 1/4" thick DOM good enough for the bars, cause I can get a killer deal?
 
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 10:49 AM
  #21  
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I would think it would be heavy enough. Get some for me too!
 
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 10:55 AM
  #22  
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I think its $5 a foot if I remember right
 
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 06:00 PM
  #23  
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hell ya thats plenty. mine is made from tractor links and .120" DOM scraps from my roll cage build/ it has held up fine.

.25" DOM should be more than enough, but it all depends on how you build it to

-cutts-
 
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 07:47 PM
  #24  
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This is what im going after. With poly bushings instead of johhny joints
 
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 10:24 PM
  #25  
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Why are you wanting to go with poly over the johnny joints. I would like to know more.

Tom
 
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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 01:00 AM
  #26  
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Im using poly mainly cause of cost. Since im not using the procomp brackets, like in the pic, there wont be a misalignment between the brackets that would require something like a johnny joint setup.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 06:43 PM
  #27  
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Now the question is which welder to use. 70amp 110v flux core welder or a 40-115amp 220v stick welder. The brackets will be 1/4" thick.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 07:41 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 84-250
Now the question is which welder to use. 70amp 110v flux core welder or a 40-115amp 220v stick welder. The brackets will be 1/4" thick.
If your building the brackets I would use the stick welder. If your attaching to the frame use bolts.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2009 | 09:31 AM
  #29  
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Im buying a ready made bracket to attach to the axle.

Im going to make the bracket on the frame side because of the offset toward the outside of the frame. How many amps do you think i need to get proper penetration?
 
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Old Apr 10, 2009 | 09:47 AM
  #30  
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Don't know. Its been a long time since I used the stick welder. Pretty high.
 
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