Window Pillars - Rust Removal & Prevention

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Jul 4, 2002 | 04:10 PM

rwsam

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Window Pillars - Rust Removal & Prevention

On my 90eb ford bronco I have a bubbling out of rust in the front two sides of vertical pillars. it is rust that is the worst, which starts from the inside, probably because they didn't coat the inner surface with any non-rusting coatings like zinc. I live near the ocean and suppose that this is what caused the problem. I also have a stress cracked windshield and wondered if the rust caused this or the poor installation? Not all of the old adhesive was removed prior to new install of windshield.

Will Zero-Rust help my problem? I can remove the patches of bubbling rust, can go inside and remove rust from inside the pillars, I just don't want to have to do that again, so how do I go about rust prevention when it might be in-grained in the metal?

Jul 7, 2002 | 04:20 AM

karljay

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Joined: Jul 2000

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From: Northern California

Window Pillars - Rust Removal & Prevention

I did mine with Por15 but Zero Rust will work just as well if not better.

I got some 1/8" thick welding rod and bent the end to hold a sponge that was cut to fit. Dunked the sponge in acetone and ran it up and down the pillars. After it was fully clean and dry, I use a new sponge and dunked it in the Por15 and ran it up and down, twisted it around etc...

Cut at least one sharp corner on the sponge to get it into the small crack and corners.

I've seen some tests on zero rust and it looks like a great product, Por15 work great too, but cost about $100/gal.

Jul 7, 2002 | 11:28 AM

rwsam

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Window Pillars - Rust Removal & Prevention

Thanks for the info.

I looked up POR15 and found out that it is an isocyanate base whereas
ZeroRust is a phenolic alkyd. Both bond to metal that is prepped properly.

I'm just wondering why ZeroRust advertised that their product is low
VOC and no isocyanates. Does this have anything to do with sensor
contamination and possible electrical / cpu malfunction?? Or, am I
mistaken and they are just less toxic, or better for human safety?

In terms of surface preparation Por15 is the easiest to use, although
they recommend sand blasting the surface.

ZeroRust require the use of Prep-Step which seems like a logical step.

From site: "Prep-Step will soften and help remove loose
rust particles, while solidifying the tight rust left behind.
Prep-Step also phosphatizes the surface and adjusts its pH to 6,
both of which are ideal conditions for paint adhesion."

http://www.zerorust.com/tech.htm
http://www.por15.com/cgi-bin/formrunner5?
ConfigFile=scart/page1.cnf&CartNumber=Jul711_
15640&WhichCo=por15&WhichPage=page1&Item
Numb=faqs/por15faq#ProductDescription

Ron

Jul 7, 2002 | 04:55 PM

CustomCab4x4

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Joined: Aug 2001

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From: Crossroads of America-Ind

Window Pillars - Rust Removal & Prevention

I've used an awful lot of the POR-15, but never Zero-Rust. The POR-15 will stick like snot to rough metal. After it sets up it seems almost bullet proof. If you buy it by the quart the costs are VERY close to Zero-rust mostly because POR-15 dealers charge ACTUAL shipping charges whereas Zero-rust charges a flat rate depending on where you live. Since they only ship from CA it's fairly high to the east and midwest.(about 11-13 bucks a qt.)There are POR dealers all over the place. Also,if you're in a "club" POR-15 will give you a 10% disc. on the order. That'll usually cover your shipping.
One other thing, unless you have a HUGE project don't ever buy more than a quart at a time. It will go bad or get too thick to use before you can get it used up. It's always a good idea to get a quart of thier thinner to, to keep it thinned out. That will make it last longer. Put plastic (saran wrap,etc) under the lid before you close it, and store it in the fridge or freezer. That will make it last longer, and maybe you'll even be able to get the lid off. Later,

Jul 7, 2002 | 09:54 PM

GammaDriver

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Joined: Dec 2001

Posts: 2,017

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From: Southeast FLA

Window Pillars - Rust Removal & Prevention

So for the POR-15, on the pillars or elsewhere, is a final coat of paint really needed? How fast do UV rays break it down, and what's it's finish like? It's site says to use CHassiscoat Black, so is its finish not the best?

I'm about to order a small can to start on some very rusty frame parts, and for minorly rusty door pillars. Besides a sponge brush or two, do I really need to buy an etcher or their Marine=CLean? I'm ready to fo it right, so I don't mind buying the right stuff. (Actually, I recall coating some parts with some penetrating oil a while back to temporarily prevent more rust, so I do have to use something good to clean the surfaces.)

Jul 8, 2002 | 05:26 AM

karljay

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From: Northern California

Window Pillars - Rust Removal & Prevention

You don't need Por15's metal prep stuff, it's just phosporic acid. I sand blasted my frame and used Por15 and it worked great. The finish on the standard black looks like proclien (sp) like a ceramic coffee cup. I used a brush and sponge and the final product looks excellent.

as for the UV, the front part of the frame is uncovered and gets direct UV because I haven't installed the front bumper yet. It changed from a shinny black to a flat black. I don't remember exactly, but I think the guy told me that it doesn't affect the performance, just the finish. But that was over a year ago so you'd be best to ask them direct.

I did notice that the frame and underbed part has held it's color perfectly, it looks like high gloss black paint.

They have a top coat that is used where UV is a concern, but I didn't use it.

The zero rust is supposed to hold up much better under high salt conditions. I saw a test in a boat where the mount was in water quite a bit and the zero rust held up better. I thought the zero rust was about $40/gal but I could be wrong.

Jul 9, 2002 | 09:49 AM

Brian

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Window Pillars - Rust Removal & Prevention

I am in the process of a frame off restoration and have been using the POR-15 extensively. My frame has a coat of POR-15 with a coat of Chassis Black over it. The POR-15 is tuff stuff the Chassis Black is not as tuff. The frame sat for several weeks in the sun before I had time to chassis black it and the POR-15 started to get a milky look to it. Buy the half pint trial pack, that way you can open cans as you need them. I use a sponge brush and it seems to go a long way. It took 2 pints (4 - 1/2 pints) to do the frame. Use gloves when painting because if you get it on you and don't clean it up it will take the better part of a week to wear off. I used Metal Prep on the frame and have been using phophoric acid since and it seems to be the same thing. It is also a lot cheaper. When you use the phosporic acid make sure it is not in the sun as it dries up fairly quick and leaves a residue. The metal gets flash rust almost immediately after finishing. Good Luck!